OK so I just read all I could find on feijoa... sounds promising but I'm worried that they ripen so late even in zone 8...I'm in zone 7 and I wonder if I'll lose a bunch of fruit in the fall. Also, I'd really love to know what I'm planting (meaning...will I like them!)...and I've never seen one in the markets around here. I wonder if anyone has ever seen them shipped? I suppose it's possible, since I had wild paw paws shipped to me from Ohio before I planted those. (oh yeah, I have paw paws too.) What do you think about hardy kiwi? I tasted those ONCE from Trader Joes... Any other suggestions? THANKS! Ann

I recently moved some things around in my fruit/veg garden, and freed up some space. I have room left for ONE more thing, something that doesn't get too tall (maybe 10'), won't spread, won't need a ton of care (or spraying) and tastes good! I already have Serviceberries, Persimmon, Asian pear, fig, raspberries, blueberries. Any suggestions? I've thought about Goji/wolfberry, but it sounds like it can get really big and spread. (true??) Need some input from experienced people! THANK YOU! A

James, If you are interested in learning more about the AHS Heat Zone Map, there was a book published in the late 1990s based on the Heat Zone maps. I believe it was called Heat Zone Gardening. I bought a copy and read it when it first was published, and really didn't learn anything new in terms of what plants would grow where I lived at the time, which was in Texas, or what would grow here, where we were building a house at the time. By then, I'd already been gardening long enough to know what would and wouldn't tolerate the heat. I do think Heat Zones could be more useful to people that either are new to gardening or are new to gardening in a specific location that is different from where they gardened before. The problem I have with the concept of Heat Zones is that it is based on how many days a year a specific area has temperatures above 86 degrees, which is the baseline temp at which heat begins to damage plants. That probably works well for people where 86 degrees is considered hot, but what about here? I'd like to see heat ratings based on how many days a year the temps exceed 96 or (after this summer) 106 because the hotter the temps get, the harder they are on plants. Also, unless they have come back and updated the Heat Zones since they were first released, they were based on temps recorded at weather stations from the mid-1970s through midd-1990s, and I think the weather has become somewhat more extreme since then. When I buy plants, I usually see the USDA Cold Hardiness zones listed on the tags, and sometimes, but certainly not always, the Heat Zones too. I think a lot of commercial growers have been slow to add the heat zone info to tags. I have noticed that the heat zones are used quite often in magazine articles about plants. Wantonmara, I think y'all are talking about apples and oranges. He's referring to the American Horticultural Society's Heat Zones and you're referring to the USDA Cold Hardiness zones. Like you said, there's lots of other factors in play and I do not necessarily rely too much on these zones because our weather here does not play fair and behave as the zones indicate it ought to. Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, Arkansas and a few other states need their own Drought Zone ratings to help us understand how much drought and heat our plants can tolerate. I'd say anything that survived this year deserves a triple-A rating or something. Dawn

This winds up being a no-win situation in a lot of ways. I see people complaining about "all the fillers" in powders and "all the water" in liquids. The mfgrs cut the fillers and cut the water, tell you to use half as much, still does the same number of loads and people go "look, it's only half as much and it's the same price!!!". LOL I don't get it. The concentrating started a long time ago with dish soap and people complained. Yes, a lot of people squirted in the same amount they used before, but face it, that's their problem. Just like the people who constantly complain that a particular brand is oversudsing when they're way overdosing. Again they blame the detergent. I guess the detergent sneaks out of the box/bottle and crawls into the machine at night. I think the compaction (as they call it) is a good thing. I don't like lugging an extra amount of water in liquids or fillers in powders. AFAIC, cut out all the water in the liquid and use an eyedropper to measure or throw in the few flakes needed of the powder. Think for a second about how much less plastic is required from just this one step. Think how much less FUEL is required to transport something that weighs 1/2 as much. Think about the increased shelf space available to the stores to either have more of the same product so they don't run out, or different varieties available to the customers. Think about how much easier it is for those stocking the shelves and yes, even us grunting these things home and into the laundry room, and even off the shelf each time it's being used. Then think about how much less plastic is going into the landfills because lazy people won't recycle. Now, back to the other issues. If it's low-sudsing, it'll work just fine in your front load or other HE machine. Suds are the biggest issue. In theory, SOME of the HE detergents are formulated to perform differently, but not all. I'm so tired of people screaming different hyperbole about soap. There's many low sudsing detergents out there that will do just fine. And guess what? You can get too many suds from HE detergents too! I see people on here all the time overdosing and blaming the detergent. I still laugh when I (so often) see someone saying they now have a front loader using 1/6-1/8 the water of the top loader and they use 1/2 the detergent they used in the toploader and can't figure out why there's so many suds, so much soap buildup, etc.... and it must be the detergent! Hellooooooooooooooooo! Oh yes, some of the syntax. "2x", "3x", etc are given when the old formula is more concentrated. Essentially taking out fillers to downsize the packaging and still give the same number of loads. "Ultra" is sometimes a brand name, sometimes a descriptor. "HE" can mean it was specially formulated to work better in HE machines, or it can mean it's COMPATIBLE with HE machines, ie it's low sudsing. There's several name brands that do not say "HE" on them that are just fine for HE machines. Mara, don't feel bad, it gets confusing. And with your new machine I'm sure you want to be sure not to mess it up. It's good to ask questions and educate yourself. Again, it looks like it needs to be emphasised, while yes, the bottles are smaller, and yes, you're getting less fillers, you're getting the SAME amount of active ingredients and the same amount of loads from the container. It's like buying a water-injected ham. You get the same amount of meat but you get more weight from the water added which evaporates out when cooked. Do you feel cheated? Most of the "old" formula "1x", sometimes called "classic" are now sold in dollar stores. People there tend to look at the size of the box/bottle and not the number of loads. Many don't even say how many loads they use. I looked at one and it said to use 2 CUPS of powder per load! That makes for expensive detergent. Personally, I think it's a myth that liquids "gunk" up a machine. OVERDOSING, liquid OR powder will "gunk" up a machine. One thing I've found is that it's easier to measure the correct amount with powder using the scoop. Using the cap on the liquids is clumsy, at best. If people would use a measuring scoop, I'm sure that virtually all the problems would disappear. Again, you can't blame the detergent for pilot error. Oh, one other thing. Technically the formulas are not the same on all items. I was reading about P&G's concentrating and the article said the formulas are different. (No idea about the other mfgrs.) They said Tide has different enzymes that are supposed to clean better, Gain has been changed to keep the smell longer, Cheer is different, supposed to keep colors better, etc. I've been using Tide Free/Sensitive for about a year now and I can only speak from experience. I used the "old" type (1x) and have used the 2x also. To me I see that they clean better than any other detergent I've used and I can't tell a difference between them. I use about 1/2 of the amount to "line 1" on the cap. So a bottle lasts me a LONG time. I used to itch from Tide so I avoided it for years. I was given some samples and there's no problem for me anymore. I'm very pleased with it. I bought some on a bargain price and am stocked up for a long time now. I don't use borax, Oxy and the other additives. Occasionally I pretreat a stain but that's not too often. And occasionally I switch off with either the Walmart powder (made by Huish) or Sun, but with Sun, I need the additives. I've been very pleased with my results and of course YMMV. And I had my machine apart about a year ago. After 20 years of strictly liquid use (in proper dosages) I have no "gunk" buildup.