I have 2 pair of Smith and Hawken gardening pants. One is the elastic waist Japanese style. The other is even older and doesn't have the elastic (I wish it did) BUT it does have multiple pockets like a carpenter's pant. I have always found the padded knees to be too high when I kneel down. I wish I had a pair that combined the best qualities of both: Lots of pockets, padded knees and an elastic waist! But, I keep patching and repairing the ones I have. Maybe my pants should get a Hall of Fame award! Martha

When deciding how much or how often to water, you need to take into consideration many things aside from the volume of water applied or the frequency of watering. How good can my advice be, or any one else's for that matter, w/o having knowledge and a good understanding of the 4-way relationship between plant mass, soil composition, container size, and cultural conditions? In a pot that's 2 feet deep, and using an inappropriate soil, the bottom 6-10 inches of soil could easily be completely saturated and devoid of air - uninhabitable by roots, while the top inch or two could feel completely dry to the touch. Also, when soil feels dry to you, at about 45% moisture content, the plant can still extract moisture from bark and peat products until the moisture content drops down below about 30%. So, if your planting is established, you want to water when moisture content in soils at the bottom of the container are somewhere between 35-50% moisture content. You needn't care care how dry the soil at the top of the container is, you want to know how wet the soil at the bottom of the container is. You can tell when the soil is between 35-50% moisture content by sharpening a 1/4 inch wood dowel & pushing it through the soil to the bottom. If it comes out wet & cool - no need to water. When it first comes out feeling dry (if you're checking daily) it means the moisture content has just dropped below about 45% and it's an ideal time to water, even though you could probably wait another day in most cases. You can also tell by stuffing a piece of rag into the drain hole, w/o allowing it to impede drainage. when it feels dry - it's time to water. Best of all, is to insert a wick into the drain hole so it goes up into the soil a couple of inches. If you set the pot up on blocks and leave the wick dangle below the pot bottom, but not so low it contacts the water in the collection saucer, you can use the wick to test for need to water. If dry - water, if moist - don't. There is also a big advantage to using a wick in this fashion. It literally "tricks" the water into "thinking" that the pot is deeper than it is. As the water moves down the wick and drips off the end, it actually "pulls" water from the saturated layer of soil at the bottom of the container that would never drain otherwise, causing air to take the place of the water & improving the likelihood of good root function and health. Some plants may require water daily, but that's something for you to determine based on the 4-way relationship mentioned above, not by me or anyone else. Like BOS888, I have many plants that require water daily and a few I need to water in the evening and before I go to work each day. Al

I'm not as extreme as you are, Wantonmara, but I only watered the yard once or twice a month and the potted plants got by with weekly waterings. I've got the lovely black clay soil that Dallas has, with little of it amended. I did water my rosemary occasionally when I watered the potted plants, it's still getting established and I wanted it to grow. I lost my thyme, lavender, and Mexican oregano, I think to heat and possibly being left out in too much sun for the amount of water that I gave them. I may have lost one of my guaras, but the other one is coming back. The Carefree Beauty rose did just fine. In the front I tried to put in a row of pincushion flowers that I started from seed and a row of cosmos. One of each survived the summer, the pincushion really took off over the winter. My iris is blooming, the Lady in Red salvias reseeded and didn't die so they may be coming back from the base, too. The cenizo and salvia greggii came through just fine, although the latter has some bare spots that I thought were dead but the wood's still green. The Henry Deuhlberg salvias were so happy that they gave me two volunteers during the summer/fall. The Mystic Spires Blue salvia did fine, although the blue salvias did slow down flower production during the intense heat. The althea that I planted last spring survived without me remembering that I needed to water it (it gets afternoon shade from the house). I'm waiting on the lantanas to start growing again, but they all still had green wood when I cut them back. I did lose the silver ponyfoot, probably not enough water and too much sun. Most likely, I lost even more grass in the backyard...guess that'll be the next project. :)

Well,there are only 732,000 hits for "Rag Bag Totes" from Google! LOL Think it would be easier to just ask the person who actually made the one I saw on this thread.If they don't care to divulge what it is that is OK.