well searching the web provided this response... The solenoid of which you speak basically blocks a circuit in the carb to lessen backfire/ emissions when shut off. If you feel a tic or hear a click when the the key is turned to run- it is working. You can remove it and watch it actuate too. It will not however prevent the condition you are having. You may have a touch of debris between the float valve and seat which is allowing the fuel through. If there is a worn "ring" pattern in the valve- replace it for sure or do it anyway. Clean the tank and bowl, flush the lines and thru the float valve w/ fresh fuel, replace the fuel filter, change the oil (plus oil filter if equipped). Hook the spark plug wire over the torx headed bolt and crank the engine to expel more of the fuel.Reinstall the spark plug and wire and expect more emissions for the first few minutes. remember that the muffler may have oil, fuel washed down inside of it and tho possibility of fire is slight, prepare for it none the less. The condition may still reoccur. An inline shut off valve kit is a great thing to install and use. That way, if a failure happen whilst it is sitting- the engine and muffler won't flood. I think I'll be checking the operation of this solenoid when I get home....

OK--now it's morning, maybe it's a little inappropriate for here...too late now. Have been spending a lot of time in nearby nursing home with other family memebers as we prepare for the final good-bye to an ancient and greatly loved matriarch. Guess this joke seemed to really hit a funnybone at 2 AM. My apologies for any offense. (Daggone; one of the cats just caught a Titmouse---not a good sign..)

Still guessing, but I try to add some more things to do. Do you hear anything when you crank it with the plugs out?? does it hesitate or have a hitch in the rotation when you have the plugs out?? Any hitch or hesitation will be mulitiplied with the plugs in especially if you hear any noise. things I would look for. Remove the starter and look at the bendix teeth, look at the flywheel teeth. Do a compression check (compression should be atleast around 100 PSI). this will tell you that the valve seat and valves are sealing and closing, Doing one cylinder at a time may also narrow the problem down to one or the other if the engine stops rotating when checking compression which may lead to a connecting rod problem. If you got good compression and the engine spins with plugs out and no unusual noises or hesitations and the drive belt and elect pto clutch aren't binding. Then I would suspect the starter, usually starters last quite awhile, but unless your are an electronic's expert your guessing. Starter is a high dollar item unless you find a used one or one on ebay for at least 1/2 price. Before I replace the starter I would go ove the battery cables again checking for any corossion (on the cables internally) and points of contact I would also jump across the starter solonoid to illimate that. I'm out of guesses or procedures unless you come up with something else. If it was me I would try another starter before I tore into the engine unless I found some evidents of a rotating part problem. I not that familar with V-twin Kohlers, but it still should have valve covers (usually the cover can be reinstalled using the old gasket unless you tear if when removing it) which you can remove and watch the valve action when cranking the engine with the plugs out if you have no compression in one cylinder, if you have good compression (in both cylinders) and no noises then the rotating internal part could be ilimated. I know another tool you probably haven't got, but you really have to have basic tools multi-meter, compression kit, vacuum gauge to have a chance to narrow some problems down.

I always choose new construction over retrofit because the window is less likely to leak, I prefer the overall look, and I don't lose any of the glass area. Remember that when retro is used you'll lose a certain amount of view out the window. Both retro and construction can be purchased in any size since any window is consider 'custom'. There's nothing worse than a window or patio door that doesn't slide easily, so keep looking until you're happy with the product. I'm not familiar with Brother's brand but Milgard has a good reputation here, as does Pella. New construction may cost a little more if you have a stucco home so research the total cost based on the exterior of your home and whether the trim can be re-used.