No they've been here since we moved in two years ago. They don't fight over food or sleeping spots, but I do think that I did fuel the fight in some way. Plus last night they weren't really rattling, Dustin clawed my thigh trying to get to Muffin. I think the fight probably wouldn't have happened if I didn't grab Muffin to help her get back on her feet. I've helped the cats before if they slip, sometimes on a window sill, just grab them around the ribcage, just under the arms, and lift them up high enough to get back on four paws. Muffin was hanging over the computer tower, her belly on the top with front legs on one side and back legs on the other and was scraping her claws on the metal case trying to pull herself up. Now this is a regular case about 2-2.5 feet high sitting on the floor, that they both sleep on regularly, I don't know why she got frightened which is why I think she was half-asleep/almost all asleep when she shifted position and started to fall off. I think she freaked and when I picked her up she had a frantic energy that set Dustin off possibly fueled by my proximity (maybe he thought she was going after me). They are running free now, this morning Dustin was whining to get into my bedroom so I let him and she came down from her cat tower and they kinda sniffed each other, walked a bit tentatively around each other and then seemed to forget everything when the dogs got up. With two teenage puppies running around the cats have other things to pay attention to, lol. They don't wrestle often with each other but if they do and one starts to hiss or spit I'll just call out 'HEY!' and they step away from each other and then aren't interested in it anymore. Next time I'll probably let them get up by themselves but seeing them scrambling, clawing at something to pull themselves up on, if they seem to struggle a bit too long I feel bad for them and just give them a hand. I'll keep a can of coins/air around just in case.

Thanks for the tips! I'll take the cat post and put it in the bathroom where I can shut the door so he can't get at it. I'll keep the deck door shut because he likes to grab onto the screen window ledge on his tippy toes (or is that tippy paws?) and see outside. I plan to use the day to make my apartment more comfortable for both of us and I think I'll pick up a soft pet bed for him and sleep on the floor so he doesn't have to jump up on the bed if he wants to sleep with me. I might even tip the top mattress so its leaning against the wall so that if he does jump on the bed its on the box spring which is half the height (I planned on turning it soon, it will just sit in mid-turn for a bit). Fortunately he hasn't been actively jumping up on counters and tables and my computer desk. I've got very low window ledges for him to sit on so that will give him a place to look out and watch the squirrels and birds on the ground. I'll also vacuum and make sure all traces of catnip are gone, but he never seemed too interested in that (tho there were a couple of times I thought he had gotten into some, he gets bursts of energy and runs around and jumps like he's running an obstacle course). Thank you for the advice and support!

Do you know how old Dustin was when he was neutered? Although certainly every cat has his individual personality and behavior patterns, it has been my experience that males who are neutered before they reach sexual maturity (around 6 mos) tend to mature into more mellow boys than the ones who are neutered as fully mature adults. My family currently includes nine male felines, eight of whom were neutered after reaching adulthood. The one who was neutered at between 5-6 mos is a very mellow dude. He's no pushover, though. In fact, he is the undisputed king of my pride. He rules peacefully unless one of the other cats really pushes his buttons. It takes quite a bit to get Noddy riled. Such is not the case with the late-neutered boys. They tend to retain an obnoxious level of "testosterone memory" in their behavior patterns. They are quick-tempered with each other and often ready to rumble. My household would be a lot more peaceful if they had all shown up here as kittens who could have been neutered early. Instead, I sometimes feel as though I live in a mine field, just waiting for the next explosive device to require defusing. It's not likely that neutering would be responsible for an escalation of aggressive behavior in Dustin, but boredom surely could. Lots of interactive playtime will help wear him out and mellow his mood. A laser pointer is a great toy for many cats. They love to chase that little red beam. You just have to take care not to shine it directly in his eyes. If Dustin continues to bite, blow HARD directly into his face. That stops most cats in their tracks. Laurie

I completely agree that growing kittens, like Muffin, need to be fed an appropriate amount of high quality food to insure proper growth. If Muffin is pregnant, her nutritional needs are even more critical and must be properly met. I do not, however, equate that with necessarily offering food free choice. It is quite easy to provide proper and adequate nutrition without leaving food out 24/7. Dustin most certainly does not need constant access to food, esp. if he has a tendency to overeat and hold too much weight. Some cats can maintain proper condition on free-feeding, and some can't. Those who can't certainly aren't being done any favors by being allowed to get fat. Lest there be any misconceptions about switching free-feeders to scheduled, portioned meals, let me assure you that my cats do NOT follow me around begging for food all day. They know when they get fed, and they eat enthusiastically at those times. I have no doubt that they'd eat anytime I put food out for them, but that is not in their best interest. I have already most likely permanently damaged the pancreases of a number of my cats by allowing them to spend years of their lives overweight. They are and always will be at increased risk of developing diabetes and other weight-related maladies, regardless of the fact that most of them are now at healthy weights. "Eating all they want" is NOT a recipe for good health in cats with a tendency to overeat. Of course if a feline caretaker is suffering from anorexia and is incapable of accurately assessing proper weight in their cats, then there might be a problem with withholding adequate nutrition from the animals and starving them, but I'm certain that is NOT what we're dealing with here. Sweetchastity's vet would no doubt be saying something if her cats arrived at the vet's office in emaciated condition, so I think we can put that issue to rest. As far as feeding homecooked meals is concerned, I'm unfamiliar with that practice so cannot speak to its potential risks or benefits. The only thing I know about cooking meat is that it tends to cook out some of the essential nutrients that then must be supplemented back into the food after cooking. That's why I have chosen the Raw Prey Model diet as the basis for my cats' evening meal. The guidelines of this diet call for raw, uncooked meat and bones at an approximate proportion of 80% muscle meat, 10% bone (never, EVER feed cooked bones to any animal - raw only), 5% liver, and 5% other secreting organ. These percentages are based on the approximate proportions of these elements in the bodies of prey animals. These proportions are not exact and allow for considerable adjustment based on the cat's (or dog's) individual responses. Also, the proportions do not have to be met at every meal, but rather should be achieved over the course of a week or longer. In other words, if more bone is fed one day, then more muscle meat should be fed the next to level things out. The only supplement I add to this diet is fish oil for omega 3 fatty acids. I do, however, utilize as many different types of meat and organs as possible (chicken, turkey, pork, beef, venison, mutton, etc.) to fill in any nutritional deficits that a particular meat may present. Also, cats can be infuriatingly finicky. They can refuse one type of meat and hope for something more to their liking at the next meal. If you spend time researching raw and cooked meals for pets, you will find endless information on an endless variety of diets. Some are cooked, some are raw, some are just meat and bones, some include vegetables and/or grains, some are based on a single meat type, some advocate variety. It can be overwhelming trying to decide what you believe is best for your own animals. That's the challenge, and good luck! As far as feeding commercial food is concerned, I firmly believe that low-carb, high protein is the way to go for healthy cats, eliminating as many grains from the foods as possible. I suspect that if you read the labels of Iams foods, they will be packed with useless grain fillers that do absolutely NOTHING nutritionally for cats. Also, canned food is much better for them than dry. I see no value or need to purchase canned and dry from the same brand, unless it's the best food available. If you want to feed commercial foods, you might want to consider Innova Evo and Wellnes Core. Be forewarned, though, that both Evo and Core (dry) are VERY calorie-dense and must be strictly portioned or your cats can become obese very quickly. Remember that my cats get only 1/8 c. of Evo dry in the morning in addition to their raw meat and bones meal at night. Laurie