I've seen that a few times : ) I hope to be getting Danby as well if we ever get our project started.
I'm not sure of the reason for doing that except to make sure the whole surface is uniform? I did try it to remove an etch on my sample and it did a pretty good job but like I said I'm not sure why you'd pretreat it before sealing... I'd welcome any feedback as well!

Thanks & Good Luck

Maybe they store their slabs outside and need the Comet to get off all the bird poop stains. :)

LOL, fori.

Okay, I figured the pre-treat was a way to make it so that *future* stains removed more easily. It didn't occur to me that it might just be a way to clean the slab before sealing it, and might have no effect on future stains...

I'm excited for you, Fishie! I went through a lot of marble options, almost committing to Calacatta slabs, before I found the slabs that were right for me. In my case, the Danby were quieter and softer--with less dramatic veining compared with the Calacatta that was available at the time. I'm going with 3 cm honed, and can't wait until they're finally installed!

Besides cleaning the slab off-this process finishes the marble to a point where after installation if you need to remove some light etching this process can be done by a homeowner. However if you do use the process after installation it will likely degrade the sealer. You will have to apply sealer again to the surface. It would be a good idea to write down the name of the original sealer so that you can use the same one. In most cases a different sealer will be compatible anyway because the resins within the stone have already cured.
Stu Rosen
www.mbstonecare.com

Stu,

Thanks so much!

Does the process make it so stains (vs. etching) will be more easily removed after installation?

I'm planning on having it re-honed every couple of years for the etching, anyway, so it's the stain resistance I was hoping to achieve by pre-treating.

"Besides cleaning the slab off-this process finishes the marble to a point where after installation if you need to remove some light etching this process can be done by a homeowner."

Stu- Are you saying that if you don't do this process beforehand a homeowner would get different results if trying at home? Oh, I think you're saying that if the homeowner does it after the process was done originally it will blend better than if it were the first time? Sorry I think I just confused it more! : )

Fishie--While we await Stu's response, I thought I'd mention that the Danbys have different levels of porosity. The slabs I bought (Olympia) are the most porous, but still less porous than Calacatta or Carrera.

You can call Vermont Quarries, and they'll send you a nice brochure listing the Danbys by porosity.

Posting a couple pics for fun! It photographs horribly, but gorgeous in person and hopefully even better in the kitchen!

Beautiful!
Yes, I've read a lot about the danby marble. We would be doing Imperial. I can't wait!

Always keep in mind that a stain that is darker than the stone is a true stain caused most likely by some type of staining agent. An etch mark will always be lighter than the stone and shouldnt be classified as a stain.
Etch marks depending on how severe they are always need to be removed using abrasives on a honed surface. On a polished surface if an etch mark is light enough it can be removed using a polishing compound specific to marble.
Would that process make it easier to remove stains or make the stone more resistant to staining? No I dont think so!
The stone makeup dictates how porous or not it will be.
When honed(marble)it should always be properly sealed with a high quality impregnating sealer. I wouldnt use the bleach and abrasive too often as you will drive yourself nuts resealing. Let the etch marks build up over a time period(or until they drive you crazy!)then try the do it yourself method or have it done professionally. I work on alot of danby in kitchens honed. I must report it holds up pretty well-yes it etches but I dont see many stains and so far they have been removed in most cases with a good poultice of hydrogen peroxide and talc or another absorbant medium.
2littlefishies-
I think it is practical for vermont quarries to use that process and give a solution to their customers so they can ubderstand the stone and be more in control of their countertops. Is the process perfect? no There will be cases when a stronger abrasive will be needed to remove certain etching or scratching. Even pros will use one type of abrasive on the majority of the countertop but will use a lower grit or more agressive technique to get out the stubborn etches or scratches. Anyway in regards to your question I think a homeowner could do this at home as well but it is kinda nice that you dont have to refinish your new countertop after it gets installed. If you do have an issue down the road you have a way to repair it on your own.
Stu Rosen
www.mbstonecare.com

Stu,

Thanks so much for taking the time to give us such a thorough response. Very helpful!

I was planning to use Porous Plus 511, but if there's something you've found is better, I'd use it.

Fishie,

Really looking forward to seeing your Olympia slabs!

Porous plus is a good sealer. I think any premium sealer that wont make your eyes tear(smelly) is the way to go.
If the stone is porous a water based product is one to consider as well.
Stu Rosen
www.mbstonecare.com

Thanks for your help, Stu.

OK, just re-read all of this but still unsure of why pre-treating with Comet is advised? I'm thinking it might be so that if you do it again at home that the finish will match? meaning honed still has some shine to it but if you rub an abrasive it gets more dull. Maybe by pretreating the whole thing with Comet and then sealing once you have it home if you use Comet again the finish will match and not be a dull spot???

Here is the actual process I am referring to!

http://www.vermontquarries.com/images/CareMaintenance.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: Comet Pre-Treat and Use for Etching, Staining

I vote you call and ask.

I did, but didn't hear back yet. I left a message. : )

Back in December when my Danby was installed, I spoke with someone at Vermont Quarries. After speaking with the rep, I decided not to pre-treat with the comet.

FWIW, this was my understanding-- although I may have misunderstood--the point of the pre-treat is to sort of slightly self-hone the slab, evenly all over, using the scrubby sponge, so that if an etch occurs after installation, you can use the same process to remove/blend in the etch (using the scrubby sponge) and it will sort of "blend in" better.

My understanding was that it did not prevent future staining or etching.

I've lived with my Olympia White Danby (sealed with Porous Plus 511) for about 8 months now.

I have absolutely no stains, despite living pretty casually with the countertops, I have a few small chips, though, and plenty of etches.

The chips are near the dishwasher--from carelessly hitting the edge of the counter when loading it.

The etches don't bother me, but if they ever do, I'll have the slab professionally re-honed. When the slab was first installed, I caused a significant etch in a weird, large shape and trying to blend it in with a scrubby sponge made it way worse. A few months later, though, I don't even notice that etch and I love my counters!! ;)

Thanks, Madeline! That's about exactly what I thought the Comet was for : )
Glad you are loving your Danby!