Waterlox will give you water repellency, but you absolutely have to sand and do multiple coats. I did at least five. And it has a very long cure time. I don't think you will find a definitive answer as the application and results differ. There are many that are very happy with Osmo and it's much easier than Waterlox.

Final word depends upon who's talking.

I wouldn't ever use a finish that coats, because if you cut on it, or just scrape the finish, it lets in water, which results in that awful black mold in the wood.

That said, I don't want an oil finish on mine, because I don't want the wood to yellow over time.

Since I am not going to cut on mine -- I barely cook -- I am using something not discussed: Paint base.

I'm using an exterior, flat, latex paint base. i.e., base for dark-to-black paint, without pigment. It goes on white, but dries so invisibly, I defy you to tell me where the finish starts or ends. IOW, I am retaining a real, "raw" look.

I've been testing it on wood outside (6 months now) and being exterior, it's got all the weather, UV, blah blah resistant ingredients. I've also got a test piece between the burners of the stove for heat. A piece is in the bottom of the sink, and a final piece as a cutting board, just for experiment's sake. No damage on any of these uses yet. Even the one in the sink is retaining its water resistance, because it's always wet and I'm always scrubbing it off because it's IN THE SINK!

So, throwing this into the mix, I'm using #4 and #5, dark, flat, latex, exterior paint base. I read about this experiment for exterior doors and took it a step further.

Boobs, what wood are you using and what is your desired "look"? That makes a difference in choosing the finish product.

Lol, bbtrix ,this made me laugh.I have a close friend who calls me Boobs. But my handle on here is BOOPS. Anyway, back to butcherblock- planning on walnut. Made a call to check on available quantities at store and they are down to 1 display and 1 new in box. Since the store is 90 min. Away- good thing I didn't waste a trip.Waiting for info on when new shipment arrives.
Reading up on the Osmo- says it needs 7 days to cure. 3 days for light use. Like the no VOC and the ease of reapplication. Plus I can order from Amazon. I want a Low sheen and something that feels soft not plasticky. The water repellency I mentioned as Im trying to avoid the rotting around the sink issue. Installing a top mount sink and positioning the faucet with the handle facing forward will help.(Thanks to GW for that tip)At this point, it looks like plywood counters for the Christmas season. Thanks to all for the responses.

My walnut plank island counter (not butcher block--there is a difference) is finished Osmo Polyx. It did not take 7 days to cure initially. Follow-up coats, when necessary, are easy-ish to apply and cure overnight.

I love that there is no thick coating on the wood. It's beautiful and has not yellowed. BUT.....and a big but....I am not impressed with its water repellency. You cannot let things that are wet sit on it for long periods of time. Waterlox has the advantage there, I think, at least based on descriptions I've read here. Let me know if you have any other questions.

To insist on not sanding before application is setting yourself up for failure. Butcherblocks are viewed from so close, usually with lighting that reveals every last flaw and grain detail, why not sand the wood at least as fine as the best furniture? I sanded my maple/cherry top to 400, and as hard as rock maple is that was not a quick job. The wood top came from the factory belt sanded at 100 grit.
Inter-coat sanding or scuffing is a requirement for every brushed-on finish I know of. Because if it's brushed-on there will be dust nubbins to sand down.
Casey

Sanding walnut is not difficult and you definitely should not skip if you want success as Casey states. I also have black walnut plank, from Craft-art. I would highly recommend checking out their website. We did the DIY and chose the regular Waterlox finish because I wanted a furniture finish. In the future, I may switch to the satin finish which looks like Breezy's. I almost did the Osmo since I watched Breezygirl go through hers and loved how it turned out, but the lack of water repellency made me switch to the Waterlox and that is what Craft-art recommends. Our main sink is in our walnut island so it's critical. Here's mine.

Are you doing plank or edge grain?

Breezy girl- I have been drooling over your counters since you posted them. I love the look. Which sent me on a search for wood counters.
Bbtrix- unfortunately, mine are end grain. Budget constraints.but yours are gorgeous as well.
To clarify- I was planning on sanding and proper prep of surface to apply initial coats of Osmo. I didn't want to have to reenact same level of prep for subsequent coats. Sorry for confusion.
Spent today driving 90 min. To store . Picked up tile for backsplash and ordered the countertops.(can't remember who had the arabesque tile backsplash but fell in love with that as well) and of course had to knock some Christmas gifts off the to do list.

Actually Boops, end grain is preferred for a true working butcher block top, and typically more expensive too!
Much harder, and resistant to scratches, cuts, and dings. So consider yourself fortunate, and not budget constrained :)

Absolutely! Edge grain is least sensitive to moisture, temperature and humidity fluctuations.

Loving all your wood countertops. I'm considering it for my island. We won't have a sink on it, but still would like it to repel water. Does it have to be shiny to do so, or is there a way of sealing it with a flatter finish?

Great time for this thread to resurface! I have the walnut boards--just need to decide on the finishing. It is between Waterlox and the Osmo. Now long is the cure time for the Waterlox btw?

Okay, Bbtrix, my fear with your gorgeous furniture finish is that it will get scratched or something. How bullet proof is it? Scratches? Can you leave sweating glasses on it for water resistance? What about kids doing homework? Does it resist impressions from writing?

Breezygirl, same with you. :). You said the water resistance isn't that great. Does that mean you are trying to put coasters under drink glasses? Are you nervous with juices and water for food prep? Also, if it does leave a watermark is it permanent--or is everything sandable? Finally, what about as writing surface for kids' homework? I am good with a quick sand here and there but definitely don't want to a slave to my countertop either.

Thank you both for your feedback and anyone else who would also like to jump in with any help. The unfinished boards are good looking--just want to make them fit my needs.