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bostonoak

Barrier between kichen sink & washer/dryer

bostonoak
9 years ago

I'm renovating the kitchen in my small condo (about 550 square feet).

The only spot for my stackable Miele washer and dryer is right next to the left of the sink.

This is how my washer looks like (I have to use these photos since my actual washer and dryer are stored away for now):

http://www.abt.com/product/40890/Miele-W3033.html

And this is my dryer:

http://www.abt.com/product/40892/Miele-T8003.html

The washer will come up to counter level. But the dryer will of course be above the sink in height. I'm trying to figure out what I could place at the base of the dryer to keep water splashes from hitting the dryer (even though my sink is quite deep). Keep in mind that the sink faucet will be on the left side of the sink, really close to the dryer. You can even see the hole in the granite for the faucet.

I experimented with having a granite backsplash or sidesplash in my case (if such a word exists) but it did not look nice. For instance, the granite I've used is quite thick (see photo below).

There has got to be something I could use.

Any tips out there? I'd really appreciate them!

{{gwi:2140674}}

Comments (24)

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    You could just put them in their own cabinet....but are you certain they could not go side-by-side or near each other such that you could get the benefit of their being counter height and putting a counter top on them and have some additional counter space? Like one on one side of the sink and the other on the other side?

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    9 years ago

    Install an end panel that matches the cabinets.

  • Fori
    9 years ago

    I think that you don't have to worry about damage from any water on the dryer--it should wipe off just fine--but you want to keep water from running down between the counter and washer. I don't know anything about how much that washer moves around but I'm guessing you can't do a big fat bead of caulk between the washer and counter could you? It peels up pretty easily if you need to move the washer. That crack would be my concern.

    Anyway, if there's no room for an end panel, would it be too weird to put up a magnetic towel bar on the dryer and just hang some pretty towels at the perfect height to nab any loose splatters?

  • bostonoak
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    practigal, Trebruchet & Fori,

    Thank you very much for trying to help me.

    I would like to pick your brains a little more, if you don't mind.

    I thought it might be more helpful if you get a better sense of the layout of the space. Please see the 2 photos below.

    Please notice that I also have a cabinet above the sink. Given this cabinet, a major concern is how high should any barrier between the washer/dryer and sink be without looking weird?

    And there's a door leading to a rooftop deck to the far left of the spot where the washer/dryer are going to sit. This door is going to be replaced with a better one. Also, it's going to open outward, instead of inward, as it's presently designed.

    But even if the door remained as an inward swinging door, there is still enough room for it to open completely without hitting the washer/dryer. But the space between the door (when opened completely) and washer/dryer is only like half an inch.

    I really appreciate any tips I get. It's a real educational experience for me. Thanks!

    {{gwi:2140675}}

    {{gwi:2140678}}

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    Is there enough space to put the sink on an angle in the same location and the washer and dryer on opposite sides of the sink-forming an L with the sink as the corner?
    What will be in the space immediately to the left of the door?(or is there no possibility of water sewer hook ups there?)

  • bbtrix
    9 years ago

    It's my guess you have a small range and fridge on the other side. With space and storage being a premium I would add an end panel and a top shelf or small upper cab if there is any room left. Draw it out so you can visualize. Every inch counts in your space.

    This is how I handled it in my small rental.

  • bostonoak
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    practigal,

    Your idea wouldn't work out because of the hookup.

  • bostonoak
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    bbtrix,

    Thank you for the photo!

    On the other side of the room is a regular size fridge. But a water hookup on the other side would not be possible or it would be very expensive!

    The largest cabinet and counter space is also on the other side of the kitchen.

    I'm thinking that maybe what I need is just an end panel that matches my sink cabinet (red oak). If so, I'm trying to figure out how high it should be. A few inches above the washer or all the way to the top of the dryer? Also, what would I put at the base of the dryer for protection against water splashes?

  • bbtrix
    9 years ago

    Optimally, you'll use a tall end panel and tie it into the existing oak cabinet. Where does the dryer end in relation to the cabinet? Will that soffit by the door interfere? You want the panel to go at least to the top of the dryer.

  • _sophiewheeler
    9 years ago

    Move the door to the exterior so that both units will fit there with a counter over them.

  • bostonoak
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    hollysprings,

    Thanks for your response.

    The door in the photo leads out onto my rooftop deck. It, unfortunately, cannot be moved. By the way, something has been in the back of my mind (it may be a really dumb question). I already ordered a new deck door some months ago to replace the one in the photo. When I ordered it I was still planning on having it as an inward opening door like the present one. But if I now want to make it an outward swinging door (to give me more room), is it possible, given that the hinges have been installed and the knob and lock holes cut? This is the type of door that has blinds built inside it. See photo below.

    {{gwi:2140679}}

    The dryer, when stacked above the washer, ends 3 inches below the cabinet.

  • sombreuil_mongrel
    9 years ago

    I don't see the hookup for the water/valves and drain. By the looks of the drain rough-in, your washer is not going to be anywhere near flush with the back wall. I think the planning needs to account for that; if you don't like stuff falling behind the machine, an end-cap partition is a very good idea, provided there is still some easy path to the water shutoffs in case of a leak emergency.
    Casey

  • weedmeister
    9 years ago

    If that pipe sticking out of the wall is supposed to be the washer drain, I think you'll need a plumber to bring it to code. A washer requires a stand pipe.

  • weedmeister
    9 years ago

    If that pipe sticking out of the wall is supposed to be the washer drain, I think you'll need a plumber to bring it to code. A washer requires a stand pipe.

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    I was not suggesting the washer hook ups move....but I am suggesting that washer and dryer be spread out to create more counter space. Maybe the attached photo will better explain my thinking.
    The poster telling you the "hook up" area is not to code is correct. Miele charges you to have their service come out and install the units and their guys don't do plumbing or electric so to avoid multiple trips $$ you'll need to get this resolved before their arrival.
    I had a door that opens out. It was a great fix to the no space for the interior door swing problem...but the hinges were on the outside so anyone standing outside could remove the hingepins and then the door. If the door leads to a secluded roof and you are ok with the lack of security it may be ok, but it may not be to your local code. It is probably possible to puchase a secure door that opens out, but I have not shopped for one.

  • bostonoak
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    In terms of plumbing, my plumber and I pulled a permit and passed the rough inspection. So I know that everything is up to code.

    My carpenter managed to come over this morning to do some more work. Below is a photo of how my stackable washer and dryer look like when put together.

    In terms of the deck door, I called the store where I bought it. They told me that they could not give me another door because my original door was a custom order (this is what I expected). However, they also told me that I could still make it into an outward swinging door but I have to do the following:

    1) Switch the hinges like you said.

    2) Switch the threshold. They said I could get another threshold from them, remove the one thatâÂÂs there now and install a new one that is appropriate for outward swinging door.

    3) Switch the glass around because it has the in-built blind. This is the tricky part. It will require removing the screws. Once the screws are out, I need a heat gun to remove the silicone, which is what holds the glass in place. They said two people should do this so that one person is on either side of the door to make sure the glass does not fall to the ground.

    My carpenter and I have not yet made a definite decision that weâÂÂre going to switch the door. Right now, the deck door is able to open fully without hitting the washer (there is a gap of 1 inch between the door edge and washer). But if we put in an end panel with 3/4â Red Oak plywood, then it will get really tight.

    By the way, I asked my carpenter about what barrier he would suggest to prevent water from the kitchen sink splashing onto the washer. He said that I may want to use Red Oak plywood that goes up to the top of the dryer then is cut at an angle to allow it to end up at the base of cabinet above. Then I can tile this plywood and the wall above the sink.

    What do you think about this suggestion? I think itâÂÂs not bad.

    {{gwi:2136571}}

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    Red oak makes perfect sense....I would still prefer not to have that height to my left as using the sink will feel very constraining. They sure are pretty machines!

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    Let me rephrase...red oak with a waterproof finish makes perfect sense..
    .

  • enduring
    9 years ago

    Here is a pic of my stacked set I have in my bathroom with a surround. I could see something like this to finish your sink and cabinets as one unit.

    Will you be putting your shut off valves under your sink. I didn't read the whole thread and maybe it was mentioned already.

    Here is the set before the finished cabinets:

    And after:
    {{gwi:2140680}}

    I have a removable access panel that is only recessed about 12" from the front of the cabinets on the shelf where you see the iron. The shelf above the iron sets the full depth of the wall. Here are some early progress pictures:



    And for fun:

    Instead of my side cabinet, you would have your sink and side wall. I have about an inch or 1.5 inches on either side of the set. I have removed them from the space without much trouble too. My set is along a load bearing wall for stability. The instructions to the Miele recommend this. With regards to the faucet you use, have it set so that the handles are over the sink instead of over the counter. Drippy hands will constantly puddle water on the counter otherwise and possibly do damage to the surround. Not all faucets allow you to position the handle over the sink. This is what I mean by positioning the handle. This hansgrohe version of this faucet only swiveled about 150 degrees so it didn't allow the handle to be turned like I've shown, until I took the thing apart and sawed off the little brass tab that was functioning as a stop to the degrees it could swivel.
    {{gwi:2140681}}

  • bostonoak
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    sombreuil_mongrel, weedmeister, pracrtigal, enduring,

    Thanks so much for your questions and feedback.

    1) The question of water/valves and drain: Maybe the photo of the inside of my sink cabinet (below) will answer your questions. All I know is that the plumber assured me that all the necessary hook-ups were in place, and we passed the rough plumbing inspection:

    {{gwi:2140682}}

    In terms of the vent for my dryer, it goes through the wall that's on the back of the dryer and into my bathroom, then goes out into the rooftop deck. See photo below:

    {{gwi:2136572}}

    My carpenter is supposed to build me a shelf or some sort of box to conceal the vent. We'll see.

    I've continued to search for a way to create a nice barrier between my kitchen sink and stackable washer/dryer. This is the idea that a kind soul suggested and is now at the top of my list, unless I come across a better one:

    Get half inch plywood board that goes from the ground (between the sink cabinet and washer) and up to the top of the dryer.

    Get a stainless steel sheet that goes from the bottom of the dryer to its top and to the wall (in other words, from the counter height and upwards). Have this SS sheetâÂÂs front edge bent 90 degrees so that it goes over the front edge of the plywood. Glue this SS sheet to the plywood.

    IâÂÂm actually thinking that if I go with the stainless steel barrier, I might also go with a stainless steel shelf for my dishrack.

    Due to space limitations, I planned on building a shelf above the sink and below the upper cabinet for my dishrack. I just measured my current dishrack and saw that I would need a shelf that is 15â by 15âÂÂ.

    I could get a stainless shelf that has holes so that water could could drip onto the sink. Funny enough, IâÂÂve seen various IKEA stainless shelves in a local Goodwill store. Maybe I should pay a visit to the IKEA store in Stoughton, MA and see whether thereâÂÂs one that is close in size to what I need (IâÂÂve never been to an IKEA store).

    Or, if I do not get a shelf with holes, I could have the shelfâÂÂs front edge sloped downward, just slightly, to let any water to drip down into the sink.

    I also plan to tile the wall above the sink where the shelf will be mounted.

    The more I think of the stainless steel option, the more I like it.

    But I'm of course open to your feedback.

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    I guess I am confused...the real water danger is not some drops between the sink and the w/d...it's what happens if the washer leaks-there does not appear to be a floor drain. Yes I think that you should go to Ikea but measure everything you have first and take your measurements with you! Stainless would be fine.

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    Double post deleted.

    This post was edited by practigal on Thu, Jan 1, 15 at 23:33

  • enduring
    9 years ago

    Be sure to have pictures with you too when you go to IKEA. I occasionally get somewhere and note that I have moved my pictures off my phone (I don't use the cloud), and I say "darn"!

  • bostonoak
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    As I mentioned before, due to space limitations in my small condo, I'm going with a mounted dish rack (above the sink).

    I have not yet had a chance to go to IKEA. Will most likely head there next week.

    In the meantime, I've been doing some online searches for mounted dish racks. I had at first thought that a mounted dish rack was a bit weird. However, it looks like they are quite common outside the U.S. like in Europe.

    Anyway, here are some finds (in case anyone else is interested):

    http://www.gelmar.co.za/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2514

    http://www.agreetao.com/taobao/view/id/5872864846

    http://missfrances.wordpress.com/category/apartment-living/

    The second one above is from IKEA.