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| Our cabinets are coming next Tuesday. *Gasp*
In my 36" sink base (under a Silgranite Performa Medium sink), I will have following plumbing:
(Thankfully, I won't have a garbage disposal.) Currently, I only have one hot and one cold copper water pipes to the base, so I need to stub them out to two by two each with its own shutoff. But I'm scratching my head to come up with a design so all the tubes and pipes are neatly arranged and provide me some room in the front for storage. Does anyone have a picture of your neatly plumbed sink base, especially when you have all the blings?
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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by desertsteph (My Page) on Fri, Nov 16, 12 at 22:16
| not I. half of my plumbing isn't connected. gd is there but leaving soon...and it doesn't even have a 'floor' - other than the actual floor. the cab floor has been ripped out to be replaced. I think even before you start you're doing better than I am! |
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| Haha, desertsteph, thanks! I hope by planning early, I can get things to work together without much destruction or interference to each other. I want to do the job myself because I'm quite small and nimble - fit for a sink base. But not sure if I can or even if I should -- our municipality requires all metal pipes under the sink. DIY literature is very rare on how to work with metal pipes. If I hire a plumber, I plan on being onsite... even just to make sure the plumber does not cut the back or bottom of my cabinet off. badgergal, thanks so much for taking the time to post your sink base, a corner that people normally do not want to show. It did surprise me how low the bottom of the sink sits. I feel even more thankful that we will not have a disposal. You are right, I will face some challenge to fit all my blings in. Now that I think about it, the filter I ordered appeared tall and slim. Hm... Not sure if the sink will leave me enough room around it. Oh, all the fun of unknowns... |
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| Hi mudworm. DH says he remembers seeing everything neatly arranged once in a cabinet, all against the back wall, with a removeable false panel in front. Cleanup sink: includes a hafele foot pedal, and feed to DW on left. We had a hafele trash pullout originally; wasn't crazy about it so DH made a modified (smaller) one, which allows me to store my trash bags in the back. Island sink, includes a tap master and a hafele foot pedal. Hope this gives you some ideas. Good luck! |
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- Posted by angela12345 (My Page) on Sat, Nov 17, 12 at 8:27
| Mine is a hot mess and I don't even have much connected. Cannot fit the trash can I had planned, so it currently resides where the ice maker is/was supposed to go. Next time I will try to coordinate better with the plumber. |
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| oldbat2be, thanks for the multiple photos! I don't want to hide the plumbing behind a fake cabinet back board, but I can see why some people will like that (and can afford losing that storage space). Your sink bases and pullouts look great. I must say the bottom of your island sink (in 4th picture) is nothing like what I expected for a sink bottom. Interesting... angela12345, exactly. I'm afraid that a plumber will just do what is convenient for him at the time when doing the job, even if it means space usage is not optimized and the arrangement is messy. So I want to make sure to plan ahead so I can have a layout that's reasonable yet practical. Bellsmom, Your sink bases are very well utilized. I love that! The little RaS pullouts look great! I wonder if our local HD carries them. I'll sure be looking out for them. Oh yeah... NeverMT... I'll also have that rigged up under the sink. Another bling, but at least, it's pretty small. |
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| Thanks. They are perfect for me. I am not into plumbing, but I had no trouble installing these. Of course the plumging is your main concern right now. But you might consider picking up one of these to see if you can ''plumb around them'' if you think you would like them. I talked with my plumber about where to put pipes and ''stuff'' before he started putting in pipes. Here's the cheapest source I could find in a quick look. This is just a bit more than I paid at Home Depot's clearance sale. Our Home Depot no longer carries them. The unit will slide out of the cabinet and can be carried to a cleaning job--or just removed intact when you want to clean the sink cab. Hence the name Under sink Caddy or Basket. Good price here. |
Here is a link that might be useful: $50 plus $8 shipping on under sink caddy at Amazon
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- Posted by cloud_swift (My Page) on Sat, Nov 17, 12 at 13:29
| I assume that you mean the plumbing to the dishdrawer dishwasher is in the cabinet, not the dishdrawer itself. Here is ours (non-island - you didn't mention island so I assume yours is wall). We have a garbage disposal plus everything you mention except a Tapmaster but different brands so perhaps not the same sizes. The grey tank to the right of the sink is the Instahot heater. The filter is in front of it and the hot and cold drinking water faucet is above it. Island which has no drinking water/filter/heater, but has a soap dispenser with Never MT and an island vent. (Some areas allow some kind of vent valve thing instead of the loop but ours doesn't.) We took out the bottle for the Never MT that's in this picture and just put the tube into the bottle the soap came in on the floor at the back of the cabinet. |
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- Posted by momand3boys (My Page) on Sat, Nov 17, 12 at 17:54
| Bellsmom, love that RS for under the vanity. The TP always gets lost when thrown in the back of the cabinet! Currently, under my sink is a mess. Hopefully will be better organized when with the new kitchen. |
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- Posted by williamsem (My Page) on Sat, Nov 17, 12 at 21:46
| Oldbat2be, how do you like the hafele foot pedal? Was it hard to install with a non-hafele system? That and the tap master are on my wish list if budget allows. |
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| Love the foot pedal! We have it on both trash cabinets. I think it's under $40, so budget wise, one of the easier items to stomach:) DH installed them and I believe install was fairly straightforward, I'll double-check with him and report back if he has any comments. One note - these do not work with softclose. Really love the tapmaster too, only have on one sink and miss it on the other. Can't reach though when I have high heels on! It really throws me when we entertain and I can't turn the water on and I'm not used to using the faucet any other way.... |
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| Wow, more photos! Thank you! I'm seeing some great ideas for the under sink arrangement. I've learnt that a metal pipe can be cut with a hack saw. We might just do the work ourselves then (I'll let DH do the cutting.) Excited! |
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| bellsmom, what is that towel rack thing on the left? does it slide out? |
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| Donaleen It's a rev-a-shelf pullout. Yes it slides out. Here's a great buy on the three prong one. Not many left at this price, though. Look about and you'll find the two-prong one, which all I had room for. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Rev-a-shelf 3-prong towel pullout
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| Okay, everything is hooked up in the sink base. DH and I did all of it in two evenings after work. I did my share of lying on my back in this cabinet. It's nice that there is not a center stile. For those who are getting close to fitting your sink base, make sure you mount your dishwasher drain hose holder/clips before you install the sink. Once the sink and the drain pipes are in, it gets so much harder to access the limited room around the sink. We learned it the hard way, but we didn't have our dishwasher yet when we installed the sink.
I'm happy about how it came out -- devices and tubes are as far back as possible. I don't have a whole lot of room for storage, but I do have some. The rubber mat came with the sink base. Not sure if I slid it in in the right direction or not. The sink base also has a tilt out tray, which I like. On the countertop behind the sink, I have a hot/cold faucet to the left, main faucet at the center, and a soap dispenser to the right. The soap dispenser can be refilled from the top, so I'm not doing a NeverMT setup for now. TapMaster is cool. // End of report |
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- Posted by lazygardens (My Page) on Sat, Dec 22, 12 at 6:29
| One way to minimize the mess is to make sure the supply lines are *long* enough so you can move them to the back and out of the way in a group, not running straight point to point like a spider web. If you have plastic tubing run it where you want it before you trim it. Cable ties and cable tie holders can hold cabinet-crossing lines in place. I took advantage of the countertop replacement to corral the RO water lines with cable ties and holders screwed to the framing and get them out of the way of storage. I still have the tank and filter on opposite sides of the cabinet, but at least it's not spaghetti city under there. Something like this, that can be screwed to the rear panel or the inner framing, holds the cable tie and the tie goes around the tubing. You find them at office supply stores - mostly used for computer wiring. |
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| I don't have a functioning camera right now to make an electronic photo file, but will remark that it is easiest inside a nice cabinet to use combinations of pex tubing and push to connect fittings such as Sharkbite brand (among many others) to avoid sweat soldering damage. All that is needed is a means to cut the pex to a clean flat end. Mistakes are easily remedied by using a different size piece of pex. Adapters exist to go from the pex to the fitting that dangling faucet hoses use. 3/8 poly line along with John Guest type push to connect fittings will be good for RO lines or such. Pex and poly are at their limit when used for pressurized water at boiling temperatures, so the hot water source in the house needs to be under some form of temperature control. A boiler type of water heater with potential for overshoot to 220 or so would be a risk in my view without a working moderator (required anyway by code). Some water chemistries tend to degrade the modulator so that needs to be kept in mind. My primary sink cabinet base includes garbage disposal and DWV plumbing, stand pipe for dishwasher hose, hot/cold feed for main faucet and to moderating valve for dishwasher (gets mix of hot and cold). Also there is the touch faucet control box, the fiber-optic garbage disposal control box, and quad electrical outlet. RO connection to both hot and cold sides of a pull-down faucet are present. All of the plumbing is mounted on stand-offs on the back or side walls of the cabinet base. kas |
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