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aries61

EZ Reach upper corner dilemma - What would you do?

aries61
9 years ago

I'm doing Conestoga inset cabinets and have a small issue with the upper e-z reach corner cabinet.

Standard cabinet uppers are 12 1/2" deep and since I'm doing inset, I'm increasing the depth to 13 1/2" for all uppers except can't increase the depth for that particular cabinet. They only offer it in 12 1/2" and 15 1/2" deep versions. My 1st choice is to do the 12 1/2" version and put blocking behind that cabinet to bring it out to 13 1/2". The only problem doing that is that it will extend that cabinet 1" further on each side(hope this makes sense), so I'll lose 1" on the cabinets next to it. or I can do the 15 1/2" version and the depth of this cabinet will extend 2" longer then the rest.

What would you do? or other suggestions

Comments (5)

  • live_wire_oak
    9 years ago

    I'd do a blind corner instead. It works better for inset in many ways, and doesn't really lose you any space to speak of.

  • funkycamper
    9 years ago

    Or would it work to get the 15-1/2" and then cut it down?

  • Buehl
    9 years ago

    Or what about doing all 15.5" deep upper cabinets? We have some that are 15" deep over standard depth base cabs and even though I'm fairly tall, the extra 3-inch depth isn't as intrusive as I thought it would be initially - I have no problems working in front of them. I wish we had done all our uppers at 15" deep!

    If you can add 3" to the base run (either 27" deep base cabinets or base cabs pulled out 3" from the wall), then you get even more - more workspace and more storage space.

    Even if you only get deeper upper cabs (std base - either standard installation or pulled out 3" from wall), you'd be surprised at how much those extra 3" add to storage - an extra row of glasses/mugs, 12" wide dinner plates will fit (they will not fit in 12.5" deep upper inset cabinets), etc.

  • aries61
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for all the responses. I'll answer each one.

    LWO: Originally I had a wall blind corner with the original layout, then I changed from an OTR microwave to a microwave wall cabinet and wood range hood. That changed the upper cabinets. The problem is that I'm big with symmetry and didn't like the look on the sink or range wall because cabinets on either side of the window on the sink wall and cabinets on either side of the range hood weren't balanced.

    Funkycamper: I don't feel comfortable with cutting down the 15 1/2" to 13 1/2" cabinet. I don't mind assembling the cabinets. Years ago I actually assembled and stained cabinets for my parent kitchen.

    buehl: I did think about doing all wall cabinets at 15 1/2" deep, but thought that they would be too deep and look strange with 24" base. Can you post your 15" wall cabinets over 24" base?

    Not sure about doing 27" deep cabinets or pulling them out 3". Something to think about. My concern with that is how the range would look. I'm actually doing a 26" deep sink cabinet in the current plan to add some visual interest.

    I've looked at other cabinet lines that will do 13 1/2" EZ Reach corner, but they're about 50 % higher then Contestoga. The cost of the cabinets from Conestoga are about $8500 to $8900 depending on who I go with. They're is about 16 total cabinets not including 30" deep fridge end panels.

    Thanks again for your comments and opinions. Please keep them coming. They're appreciated. That's what I love about GW. So many ideas that most of us don't think of.

  • scrappy25
    9 years ago

    The 15.5 inch ones will be easier to deal with the trim above it but if you have a good carpentry they can make the trim work for the 12.5 one. I deliberately changed the depth of my uppers by 1/2 inch where the height of the cabinets varied in order to accomodate the batten molding and nobody has noticed the small jog. So I think that either one will be fine depending on your size issues and dealing with the crown or batten molding.