1. yes
2. it won't matter a lot except where there's an integrated sink--the stuff in number 1 will prevent dents. My last one was 14 gauge, probably overkill, but the metal guy didn't like the idea of cast iron pots in a thinner metal. You do want a good stainless and I don't remember the grades.
3. it's good stuff in a kitchen

bonus answer: look up Trailrunner's kitchen if you think wood next to gas won't work.

1) Yes

2) I think mine is 18 or even 20. Just whatever the sheet metal shop had on hand. I would specify 16 next time, just to be safer. (Actually, I did this time, but dh forgot to check on that when he took in the layers of underlayment he'd cut to shape and size.) I have a tiny ding or two (not enough to bother me) in mine from dropping things out of the upper cab. Since it's wrapped over wood, so supported by that, it's not like it's hollow and having to retain its own shape.

3) I am SO glad I have the stainless on both sides of my rangetop. It's nice looking, and although it's not a big deal to me to use hot pads, it's nice to be able to set hot things right on it without worrying. It's VERY easy care. If there were to be a next time, I would seriously consider using it for more of my kitchen... The integrated, seamless, sinks are so wonderful looking...

Thanks for the answers!

Rhome, do you happen to have any pics posted on Gardenweb?

So I'm likely to be safe clumsily putting cast iron on 14 or 16 gauge?

Oh, and I've seen Trailrunner's great kitchen. I'd *love* to do wood, and I know it would work out great, but I'm giving into my cabinetmaker/countertop guy on this one. I live in an area where "different" things aren't done as often as they are in some other areas, and wood on either side of a prof'l gas range is a new concept to contractors here.

Thanks again!

The best pics I have right now are on my blog...I'll put the link below (If you click on the pics there, most get bigger)...but here's one of the stove area.

Here is a link that might be useful: My kitchen

I have a corollary question. For those of you with SS counters around a sink, did you all get an integrated sink, or did anyone do a topmount or undermount sink in a SS-wrapped countertop? If the latter, how is that working out? (I am assuming that integrated costs much more though obviously it makes the most sense.) Can you even undermount a SS sink in a SS counter?

My stainless guy would weld in a sink or custom fabricate one--the sink was the reason he went with the thicker metal but it was probably not needed.

If there's no sink (maybe even if there is--most premade sinks are 18 or 20 ga), you don't need the heavy 14 or 16 gauge. The backing material should prevent dents.

I have them in my kitchen They're 9 and look as good as the day they were installed though they definitely have patina (i.e. scratches) that come from normal use. Don't know the gauge but they are quite thick.

They are glued down to a very thick plywood substrate -- they were clamped for 2 days.

Very low maintenance. I wipe them with Caldrea countertop cleaner and a microfiber cloth.

Thing about stainless is that it can get heat tint and discolor slightly. So I put hot pots on the stovetop, sink grid or on silicone trivets.

Depending on the fabricator they can do pretty much anything sinkwise. The guy who made mine is an artist and he managed to perfectly wrap the counter around an upmounted Shaw's farm sink.

I had a wood counter for years and much prefer these. I never worry about them and they are so easy.

Odd! I had two kitchens with SS counters and never had heat marks. Something isn't right if that happens! My SS cookware doesn't have any!

I confess I used a trivet sometimes with large cast iron pots because I was paranoid about thermal shock cracking the pots. Paranoia isn't sane, but the sound of cracking cast iron is disturbing to me.

Interesting and helpful thread. So, does one buy ss counters pre-made or find someone local to fabricate them, or what? Is there an avg. cost per sq foot for ss? Not trying to hijack the thread, just trying to flesh it out for us newbies, lol.

Go to the scary edge of town, you know the one, with all the auto body shops and commercial supply stores. There will be a metal fabricator in there somewhere. If you can find the right place, it's a lot cheaper than having one made via a pricey kitchen design place. :-)

I think Rhome has shared her cost per square foot before, a quick forum search might bring that up.

I can't recall price and it was so long ago it won't apply anyway. I'd expect it really varies depending on location. Any city with restaurants has metal fabricators close buy as most of the restaurant counters are stainless. But residential is a bit different since you need the substrate so check around as circus peanut suggests to find a fabricator who has done residential.

As for heat marks, you get stainless hot enough for long enough and you get marks. It's pretty much the only aspect of that particular material that I see as a downside and it may not be common but it can happen. Much of my cookware is stainless and I've had my share of thermal runaways and discoloration. If it's not happened to someone else then lucky you!

Great thread.

Rhome, wow. WOW. Absolutely beautiful, thanks for posting.

Great tip about going to the fabricator rather than fancy-dancy kitchen place.

Anyone have easy-to-use, compact, lightweight, super-duper heatproof, easy-to-clean trivet suggestions?

This heat mark thing has me taking a step back and thinking the whole thing over again. I'll probably go with stainless, but I was hoping for something bulletproof. I cook with a cast iron pan every night, and I need to set it down somewhere...the other surfaces will be Calacatta marble, so I don't think that's an option. I've been spoiled with bulletproof granite. Looks like I'll be buying some trivets.

The only 100% bulletproof counter material I know of is pyrolave. It comes in amazing colors and looks fabulous but not affordable for most. Wolf has it in their showroom kitchen in NYC.

The Kitchen Aid silicone trivet does the job for most things. Other option is a 10 x 15" cake rack or quarry tiles with sticky felt on the bottom. You can use an old butcherblock cutting board for big stuff -- I have an ancient one I use for the Le Creuset casserole I use to bake bread. It has multiple burn marks but who cares.

Once pans have cooled down slightly I put them on the counter but straight off the stove, or out of the oven, no.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pyrolave

I have had SS counters and never had problem with heat marking for some things directly out of the oven, like say a cookie sheet, or even a cake pan or loaf pan because there isn't much residual heat in a pan like that.

But it's the big heavy, heavy and very hot things like a LeCreuset casserole, cast iron skillet or cast iron pizza pan that can create the heat damage/color change.

The simplest "trivet" that I have used is an extra large-sized silicone pot holder (something 9x9, or larger). But another nice one would be a smallish (say 7x7 or 8x8 inch) scrap of a pretty granite. Put rubber feet on the bottom side and use it as plunk space, even for very hot stuff. Since they are unsually more than 1" thick, even if the pots over hang a bit, the counter would be fine.

HTH,

L

I have never had any marking or tinting from heat. I don't know that I've had occasion to set cast iron straight off the stove onto the counter, but do set things straight out of the oven, like cookie sheets, bread pans, roasting pans of meat or chicken, lasagna pans and the like. I'm pretty sure I've set pans off the stove onto the counter at least a few times, but mostly I just move those to another burner on the stove.

Our local sheet metal shop did ours for $17/sq ft. But as I said, standard weight with no integrated sink included, nor any marine edge or brushed finish like have been shown on the forum on occasion. Ours are plain, plain, but that's what I wanted. :-)

Thanks for the SS info and trivet suggestions.

I like the look of a marine edge. Is it's primary function to prevent things from sliding off the countertop? Does it cause a challenge to wiping crumbs easily off of the countertop...meaning do they get stuck?

Finally, and finish advice (brushed, etc.)