It's pretty hard to argue after the fact. If you had done the measurement on that refrigerator months ago before you set the cabinet specs, and now it's 1" longer, then you can ask what is different. Maybe you didn't adjust for clearance on the original measurement?

However, if you simply went for 30" cabinets (instead of specifying the depth to match your refrigerator) then you need to match the refrigerator to fit in the space. Your best bet is to sell your current refrigerator and buy another one with 1" less depth. They are definitely available without loss of quality.

I guess I need to clarify....

Cabinet maker was given specs for fridge at the design stage. It's a brand new fridge. The fridge is just under 29 inches. If panels had been made 30 inches as designed, fridge body wouldn't stick out at all. I thought a 30 inch panel would actually be 30 inches.

Are these custom cabinets? If not, what does the manufacturer state in spec sheet for cabinet?

I am going to assume that the panel was cut down to 29" to allow the fridge door to open...

I would bet it's as ajc71 says. Most refrigerators will need the doors themselves to be outside of the enclosure in order for them to open. And, even if your current fridge fits like a glove, in 7 years time when you have to replace it, the new one probably won't.

Regardless, it would require that the crown above, the cabinet, the side panels and maybe even the adjacent cabinets be removed in order to replace it with a 1" deeper panel. Then all of that would have to be replaced, cabinets blocked forward, and new crown would have to be cut and applied. It's not a simple fix at all. Not that it couldn't be done. Just that you would gain very little from the process.

What does the cabinet maker say?

Could it have needed to be scribed at the back for an uneven wall?

Clueless - they are custom cabinets.

ajc71 - Depth of fridge with doors is not quite 36". Body of fridge (which is what I was trying to hide) is not quite 29". I knew doors would need to be outside of enclosure

live_wire - I realize the work involved would be extensive and expensive. I haven't called cabinet maker yet. Wanted to get some opinions on situation.

This is fridge enclosure

Pic of fridge installed. This is the look I was trying to avoid:

Could you remove the drywall and change the back of the wall cavity a bit to change the depth internally?

Are your cabinets inset? All my appliances stick out like yours, even my dishwasher...

If you paid extra for 30", and didn't get 30", I think that you have a legit complaint. If there was some good reason that the depth of the panel and cabinets couldn't or shouldn't have been 30", then you should have been told.

I frankly don't see any reason for it to have been shortened from the pictures. It is not just the panel that is short, it is the cabinets too, isn't it?

I know that my cabinetmaker had a set $ per inch for extra depth, width etc just as Barker Cabinets does. Did your cabinetmaker ever express to you how much a variation increased the price, in terms of specific measure (like, $50 per additional inch of depth)?

I certainly would be asking why, and wanting some refund of the premium paid for the missing inch.

I also see that he didn't give enough space between the fridge and wall oven, so now you have a chance of the fridge door hitting the wall oven when it opens.

That's a do-over. And add at least 2" between the fridge enclosure and oven cabinet.

No doubt a do over, clearly the fridge could have been set so that the body of the fridge was covered...and I agree with the space between the fridge and wall oven being too tight...potential problem there for sure

Here's a picture of my non-custom previous kitchen. I guess I had enough room between the fridge and the oven because it worked just fine. As you can see, though, the only part of the fridge that you see is the doors. They opened freely, enough to get the drawers out for cleaning.

Here is a link that might be useful:

Can I assume you wanted a full size fridge, not a CD? If so, would still need to leave room behind fridge for ventilation.

My cabs are 30", and had to return for CD fridge.

Hough,

If your fridge could push back, it looks like the drawer fronts may or may not clear the fridge door when the door is fully open. I think that mine needed something like 2.5" between the fridge and the drawer front, but that varies with make and model.

I'd say it's not unreasonable at all. We are renovating the kitchen and I built out the over the fridge cabinet into a fridge surround so I could avoid the look you ended up with. I think especially since you paid extra they should redo it to your satisfaction. Hope then make it right!!

raee - yes, cabinets are too short also.

live_wire & ajc71 - the open space is for a microwave. Looks like fridge doors won't have an issue if cabinets come out a bit.

bookworm - fridge is full size and only requires 1 inch for ventilation at rear.

Thanks to everyone for looking at this. I'll be making that phone call tomorrow to try and find a resolution.

I agree that if you ordered a 30"panel you should've received 30" panel, it's a pretty common size even without going custom; however, at this point, I'd consider other solutions. Are you dealing with a KD directly or do you have a GC? Perhaps there are other solutions that will give you the end look you want. I can't quite tell from the photo, but do you have a recessed refrigerator outlet? If not adding one should give you the 1" you need.

Replace the wall receptacle with an inset version and you should get your inch. I am also concerned about opening your doors. Mine sticks out but I need it stick out to open the doors

Peel the drywall (probably 1/2 or 5/8") off the back of the fridge opening, cut 3/4" off the studs and reinstall 1/4" drywall. The house will not fall down and your problem will be fixed for $8.00 and 3 hours.

What about moving the over-fridge cabinet and side panels out the 1" needed, adding blocking behind the over fridge cabinet for a false wall support, and covering the back gap with some matching molding? That would preserve the look with less work.. There is probably some molding already there on the exposed side panel against the wall to hide the gap, it just needs to increase in thickness. Ditto about making sure that the doors can open appropriately and won't hit the oven door.

It sounds like they looked at the spec and matched the cutout to the refrigerator spec but forgot about the clearance requirement.

I think ineffablespace and Trebuchet have the right idea.
Although if you hire someone to do it (and the GC won't do it for free), then you might save money buy just getting a new refrigerator (and selling your current one) with a 1" smaller depth.

I don't think you can just make the outlet inset because you still have the ventilation requirement.

I would find this unacceptable as well. If your GC knew you wanted your refrigerator not to stick out he could have and should have recessed the wall behind the refrigerator to allow for the depth of the refrigerator that you supplied the specs to. I am always surprised when I go into a new home and the refrigerator is sticking out. When builders and cabinet professionals have experience this should be a non-issue for a home owner. Many of the new homes in our area plan for and build a recessed area behind the refrigerator space to allow for a full depth refrigerator in a 24 inch deep cabinet space.

Trebuchet is correct, the Builder should and can fix this.

My friend bought a counter depth refrigerator and the wood cleat supporting the cabinet was preventing the refrigerator from going back all the way and a simple trim of that cleat was all it took. I suspect you have more than a wood cleat in the way but it is still a fixable issue. Good luck and stick to your guns on this.

Solution semi-copied from another forum (permission obtained)- this was what I was trying to say above.

We bought the fridge first, so that we knew exactly what size so it looked really tight. to get the fridge flush with the cabinets, which nobody ever does, and you know how everyone's fridge kind of just sticks way out past the cabinets, and they don't bother finishing off the sides of fridges in stainless, so you have a big black side of your fridge showing. We pulled forward the side panel and popped a 3 inch piece of trim over the gap between the side panel and the back wall.

Thank you everyone for info/advice.

Sent email to builder about issue. He claimed they built cabinets according to refrigerator specs I gave them. I believe calumin is right and they did not factor in ventilation. When I pointed out the missed ventilation requirements, I got an email stating they couldn't do anything about it other than refund the upgrade charge. So, I shall learn to live with it or use one of the creative ideas given here to get the look I truly wanted.

Thanks again!

there is a fridge outlet box that is recessed and may solve part of the problem if the plug in the back is an issue. This would be easy to do and will help, but may not completely resolve the issue.

also take a look around the bottom of the fridge 'box' and make sure there is nothing on the floor that is keeping the fridge from going all the way back like a piece of molding or an uneven floor board.

Here is a link that might be useful: recessed fridge outlet

Thank you for the link detroit!!

Hough, sometimes I feel like an email gives them an easy out. Maybe you should place a telephone call and make him explain why you paid for 30" cabinets but received 29".
And I would definitely get that upgrade charge back.

They did do a nice job on your cabinets though. They are really beautiful and I love the drawers.

Congratulations on your new home! You must be so happy to be moved in time for the holidays! Enjoy!

If you have it redone to get the extra inch, that would mean that the cabinet above the refrigerator will be one inch proud of the cabinet above the wall oven. Will you be okay with that look?