I don't have it....my in floor heating is under tile.

I was in one house once thought that had it and the boards dried, warped and shrank....don't know if it was because the wood floor was cheap, improperly dried or if it was the in floor heat temp was too high. But it wasn't good.

I do recalll there are some speciAl conaiderations, but it is totally doable with wood.I have it at my lake house as the primary source of heat. No problems going on ten years and welove it. (the main floor is all wood)

I put it in our new house in several areas, eg my bathroom, the kitchen. We have lived here 18 months and ive never turned it on and forget how (it's supplemental here).

Wide width is subject to warping anyway, and there are already a host of requirements in place when installing it like the use of humdifiers and AC in their appropriate seasons. If you do all of that already, and choose a hydrionic system that is designed for low temp loops, then it's doable. If you choose a system that runs above 80 degree water in it, then most wood floor manufacturers will not warrant it. Most will tell you though that they ONLY recommend engineered wood floors with radiant heat. Not solid wood. Solid wood just moves too much with the change of temperature and humidity, even with using all of the humidifier and AC.

You can do it with SOME wood ... make sure the supplier guarantees it over hydronic in-floor heat.

"Engineered wood" (layers of wood) usually works well, but check the specifications to make sure.

Slab wood - old-style tongue and groove boards - it totally depends on the species, how well it it acclimated before it's installed, and how well you can control the humidity after the install.

We have radient heat with 12 - 20 inch pine boards. No warping or cracking in 4 years.

Ours is Carlisle random width pine, some of it as wide as 18". I do think I recall that some special accommodation had to be made, but it was not a big issue to use hot water radiant heat with true wood floors.