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rhome410

Will I hate tile floor? + other tile questions...

rhome410
11 years ago

Backstory: As I mentioned in a thread about Marmoleum Click, we are taking ours out and looking for another alternative. Under serious consideration is LVT planks. But installed, it'd be about $7/sq ft. We are terminal DIYers (we built approx 95% of our house), but DH is over-, over-booked for the foreseeable future, and I'd like my floor put back together in this decade. ;) After DH helped them get started, our boys did our Marmoleum Click, but I read that the vinyl planks are tougher to put together, and just thought a pro crew would be the best bet.

I had also considered the bulletproofness of porcelain tile, until I saw that the tile I was interested in was $7/sq ft, plus $6.50/sq ft installation... So had ruled it out, because of price, in addition to the complaints of hardness.

Now: Sunday I stopped at Lowes and found much less expensive tile and the wheels began to turn again. So here are my questions:

1) Will I hate tile floors? I've never had them. I'm 52, so am heading into an age in which things like hard floors might be a problem? We have 8 kids (mostly teens), large dogs, cats... a busy house and extremely busy kitchen.

2) Are tile floors a reasonable DIY project, or is there WAY more to getting it in and precisely flat than I imagine? Our sons and I have worked on backsplashes and our 48" x 64" inset, penny-round tile 'rug' in our entry, but not a whole floor. And our Marmoleum covers not only our large kitchen, but our back hall and utility/sewing room, so about 1200 sq ft. (We just built our house 5 yrs ago, and it is extremely plumb, flat, etc... We have floor joists with plywood sub floor)

3) Is there a difference in the quality of tiles that warrant a $7/sq ft price over $2/sq ft? I am only considering those that are porcelain and rectified.

Thanks so much.

Comments (99)

  • lascatx
    11 years ago

    We replaced the tile we had in our kitchen and family room in part because it was getting hard on my feet and DH's back and knees and in part because the bozos who did the tile patches during our kitchen work made a mess of things. We didn't have mats, but I would have gotten them for at least the sink and stove if we had kept the tile.

    We had the tile put in when we bought the house and chose one with some texture to it because we have a pool in the back yard and with kids running in, we were especially concerned about both water damage and slipping. Even with the texture, it was slippery when wet. We didn't have problems with falls, but did have some slips -- usually from wet feet more than a small amount of water near the sink or dropped ice near the fridge.

    I do love the durability and easy cleaning of tile. If properly installed, it should last longer than you care to have it, and porcelain is the way to go -- colored through with your busy family, just in case you get a chip. Can't help you with heating. Never had it down here near Houston, but I think I'd want it up north. I've watched it installed (the dry, wired type) on HGTV. Doesn't look like it would add to the difficulty of DIY. Pros would take 3-5 days to lay your floor, so I'd anticipate up to double that.

    Can't recommend cork if you had trouble with water. The cork we almost put in the kitchen said not to use water even to clean the floor. The was no way to get the concrete dust off the slab when we laid it down to test it and it got walked on. That didn't bode well for flour and sugar or food spills in general. It went back.

    We now have wood, and the only time I've been concerned with water was a pool party when kids came in dripping wet. If we'd had the tile, the'd have been on their backsides, so I guess we'll put down a larger mat or towels for pool parties with the teens and carry on.

    Good luck with your decision.

  • PeterH2
    11 years ago

    A few comments:

    * Stone and tile floors need a rigid subfloor to prevent cracking the stone/tiles or grout. That typically means 1 1/8" thickness. Other types of flooring can be laid over 3/4" subfloors, which means the floor as a whole may have more "bounce". I suspect this is where people got the idea that hardwood floors are "softer" than tile floors.

    * If the subfloor structure is identical, there is no practical difference between the hardness of concrete, stone, tile, wood, laminate, linoleum, or most types of vinyl flooring when it comes to standing on them - none of them yields under your weight enough for you to be able to detect it, even in bare feet. Even the cushiest sheet flooring has only a little give in it. People who find that switching from tile to wood stopped back/hip/or knee pain are powerful testament to the placebo effect.

    * There is a big difference when it comes to what happens when you drop something on tile vs. wood. Wood does have enough give in it to give a plate or stout glass a chance of survival; tile is almost certain death to dropped ceramics. Drop a cast iron pan on either and you will likely damage the floor - wood will dent, tile will shatter.

    * If you keep a couple of spare tiles, it's a bit easier to replace a tile and match the grout than it is to replace a section of wood flooring and match the stain.

    * The joints between wood planks are crud traps.

    * Epoxy grout doesn't stain like traditional grout.

    * You can't wet mop/steam mop wood floors.

    * Tile over an impermeable barrier like Ditra is waterproof - it protects your subfloor from minor floods. You can extend the barrier+tile up the wall to improve this in areas where water leaks/spills are likely.

    * Wood feels warmer underfoot because it is a better insulator than tile. This may be another reason people think of wood as more comfortable than tile.

    * Tile is better if you have underfloor heating, because it is a better conductor of heat than wood.

    * If you want a soft floor, carpet (yucky in a kitchen), thick cork, rubber, or a rubber mat are your choices. Or you could just wear shoes with cushioned soles.

    * Don't install cabinets or appliances on top of a cork floor - lay the floor around the the cabinets, etc.

    * Slipperiness depends on the texture of tile and the finish applied to wood. You can get tile that is quite grippy, even when wet; you can make wood really slick.

  • sayde
    11 years ago

    I like tile in the kitchen. Very easy to maintain. We have handmade looking tiles with about 3/8 inch grout lines but it is not a problem. Our floor is checkerboard, brown and white. Although we did everything else ourselves we had a professional install the tile floor and backsplash. But we worked out the details of the border and the layout together. Tile just makes cooking messes and dog problems so much less of an issue. I am older than you Rhome, and cook a lot and have not had any problems with the tile being hard.

  • williamsem
    11 years ago

    PeterH2, can you provide some more info on not installing cabinets on cork? We were trying to figure that out! Id love to be able to provide an answer to the contractor.

  • hags00
    11 years ago

    rhome -

    Like them both and think either would be great in your kitchen. Winchester would be my first choice if I had to choose. kind of the same color scheme as the Allure I chose in the last house and I liked it because it never looked dirty!

  • lalithar
    11 years ago

    Rhome,

    Adding an 'active senior' input...I asked my 86 yr old mother in law as she has cooked in my previous home with wood floors, my current home with vinyl and tile.. Her favorite is tile. She recommends a braided rug or one of those cushy mats if you stand in front of the stove for a long time baby sitting something.

  • mabeldingeldine_gw
    11 years ago

    I'm currently renovating my bath, and will be putting in a vinyl plank floor. I'll report out on the process if you are interested. I hope to be laying the planks this weekend... but it has been slow going.

  • lascatx
    11 years ago

    I looked at the planks you are considering. You could do either, but I think I like the more brown one. It seems to connect with the warm and cool tones throughout the kitchen. I like the grey with everything but the natural wood cabinets. It doesn't quite work on my monitor, but that doesn't mean it doesn't in your kitchen.

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I am thinking tile probably isn't for me... For one thing, with all of the greatest respect to those who have them and love them, I am not a mat or little rug person. They get in my way, gather up and move around (even if they have stuff underneath to prevent it), the corners turn up, they catch dirt... I just need a totally clear floor, and so do my less-than-perfectionist, asst housekeepers.

    Mostly and especially, though, has to do with what PeterH2 said in the first of his helpful comments. (Thanks for taking the time to list all of those!) I do have to add 3/8 or 1/2" of subfloor to do the vinyl tile and get it to approximately the same level as we had the Marmoleum Click, but, if I need to add 3/8" of subfloor, then backer, then tile, the floor surface will be too high. It won't be a good transition to the wood flooring, and the dishwashers probably won't fit back in under the countertop. :(

    Thanks, Hags00 and Lascatx, for the input on the vinyl. Half my family likes one and half likes the other, and I like both! I was actually afraid the brown would be bad with the wood cabinets...maybe clashing... while the gray is so close to what I have, it would be 'safest.' But when I first planned my kitchen, I wanted brown floors, and 'settled' for gray, because Marmoleum Click had no brown. The brown is also a little rustic looking, which I like, but not sure it goes as well with the feel of the house. Obviously, still torn!

    Mabeldingeldine, I'd love to hear how your planking goes!

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Just had to tell you all how dumb I am! I kept wondering about that 1200 sq ft total I'd come up with for amount of flooring I need... but not really thinking it through.(Our entire main floor is only 1500 sq ft!)

    When I first measured, trying to be very precise, I recorded all the areas of flooring by inches, including more than a few bumps and jogs, and then divided all by 144 into sq ft. I must've made some very wayward calculation somewhere, because I refigured my Marmoleum sq footage tonight, and now come out with less than 450 sq ft. Quite a difference! I am actually decent at math, I promise... I'll just be thankful for the realization and the facts, and more happily move on with getting a new floor for a lot less than I thought I'd have to spend! Makes a possible DIY project less daunting, or pro-installation costs easier to swallow.

  • autumn.4
    11 years ago

    LOL rhome! I was thinking - 1200 square feet - wow that is HUGE (our whole entire house is 1450 sq. feet). :) I know you have a large family so I just figured it was a very large space.

    One more thing to add-the open areas do go more quickly. Our dining room went much faster than the kitchen - less cutting.

    Here is a pic of our floor (not a great one) - very good at hiding dirt. We didn't have our base shoe trim on yet. Grout turned out lighter than I wanted and I was in quite the PANIC, but I am used to it now.

  • youngdeb
    11 years ago

    I realize you already made your choice not to do tile, but just to pile on...

    We had tile in our last house and it was really rough on my back, and my feet would ache from a quick weeknight dinner prep. I had never before, and never since have had issues with my back. This house had vinyl that we just replaced with sheet marmo, and I loved both.

    Why would the vinyl planks be better than the click marmo? Seems like they'll both have the same issues in terms of letting water underneath to the substrate.

    Did you consider sheet lino? I think you're near me (DFW), and my guys were really very good.

  • lascatx
    11 years ago

    I went back on your blog and read about the water issues. On your DW, check the seal. That or a hose would seem most likely to leak. We couldn't figure out where water was coming from on a new DW years back and it turned out to be a cut in the seal that was only apparent when you ran a finger over it and the cut line separated. DH and I hadn't been able to find it, so the repairman made us feel better when it took him several tries to find it. Time to be grateful for the second DW, right? But I understand. I don't have as many at home as you and I can still run both DWs in a day (not all plates and glasses, obviously!).

    There is something about the grey plank that is close but not quite. I like the grey you have though. Looking at the blog photos again, I noticed the grey appears to reflect yellow from the natural wood. That is where it is least attractive. But then I also looked at the one near the cooktop. Reverse those and look at the grey in front of the cooktop cabinets and hood. There isn't enough contrast for me there and they don't match. That's where I like it least, and it's a focal point of your kitchen. Obviously, you have to look at the colors in the room, but that's how it looks on my monitor.

    As for rustic, I see it as relaxed, natural, a little old fashioned and a bit contemporary -- and to me, that does fit your multi-finish kitchen. And it's warmer, which fits the burgundy, wood and overall feel of the kitchen.

    Admittedly, I am looking very closely and trying to come up with reasons why I'd pick what I would, but if I had to shop from my computer monitor, it would be the browner one of these two choices.

    I saw some really nice looking vinyl planks when we did our wood floors last year. I live in an area where wood, certain kinds of tile, wood, a limited amount of carpet and more wood are considered acceptable flooring choices. We didn't look long, but I had to stop and look, touch. I think you'll be happy with whatever you pick. If it's that tough to chose a color, you probably can't go wrong.

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks for more input, YoungDeb and Autumn.4. We're in the Pacific NW/Puget Sound area. Autumn, I can see where you might have chosen darker grout, but the light seems to sharpen and brighten the tile, so it looks good!

    Why would the vinyl planks be better than the click marmo? Seems like they'll both have the same issues in terms of letting water underneath to the substrate.

    The problem wasn't that water went underneath to the sub-floor, although that may have become a problem later. The problem is that the Marmoleum Click has a wood fiber core, and that's what swelled and got ruined by the little bit of water. The vinyl planks don't have that. Although, it's not any easier to replace if water DOES get under and damages the floor. I will definitely check about sealing or doing some glue-down around the water areas.

    Lascatx, we've actually now been running the 'leaking' dishwasher with no more visible water anywhere. I will definitely clean the seal and check it, as that was something a blog commenter suggested, too.

    I think the pics are bad of the gray flooring, because there was no yellow about it at all, and in fact, the brownish one is golden and looked VERY yellow in the store (fluorescent lighting), but thankfully, not so much at home. I'm a little afraid that when it covers the whole floor, it'll have more of an impact.

    I have never been happy with the gray on my range area cabinets, as I'd wanted a creamy gray, and I've even caught my dh referring to them as 'the blue cabinets.' Aargh! So I'd like to repaint them, and the color would be the same as the gray floor, but darker. I also wasn't sure I wanted them to be that matchy. And I sure don't like them together much as they are.

    My son-in-law said the gray looked like 'beach house.' He wasn't sure that was in keeping with the room, but on the other hand, when I switched from the stronger color scheme to this one, I was imagining the warm, bleached rocks along a river on a sunny day... So maybe the beach house feel isn't far off. And I kind of liked that about the gray flooring.

    BUT, since it is so close, plus 2 of those I thought were gray-fans were telling me last night they liked the brown, and, especially, since the trusted guys at the flooring store have positive experience with the brown brand and no experience with the gray, and since it's the 'store brand,' the flooring and installation warranties are better... I think the brown wins.

    I still have a little bit of problem with the 'fake wood' thing. But I bet I'll get over it.

  • kitchendetective
    11 years ago

    In a rush and have not read entire thread, but I would find 1200 square feet of tile undesirable. And I love tile--the colors, the textures, the possibilities. I have scored, stained concrete in the gallery and mudroom/laundry room. It would kill me, were I on it all day. On the plus side, it does match our dirt! I do have one of those gel mats in front of the utility room sink (highly recommend). If I have to walk around a big box store the existing leg pain and fibro issues that I have worsen. And that is wearing good walking shoes. One thing that helped on the concrete was wearing Crocs. However, after the Great Pyrenees ate them, I was never able to find any with the same, uh, gushiness of that first pair. (They were also too wide, which isn't good.) Obviously, you do not have the same health issues, but I didn't always have them either. When I had Saltillo pavers, they still bugged me if I went without shoes, and that was pre-health issues. I think the concrete experience speaks to what rectified porcelain would feel like.

  • westiegirl
    11 years ago

    Just a thought, but now that you are looking at much less square footage, have you considered sheet Marmoleum? You could keep the same general look you loved with the Click product, but it would be completely waterproof. With the reduced square footage, you might be able to work it into your budget.

  • bmorepanic
    11 years ago

    What youngdeb said. Cause yes, you'll hate them.

    The gray floor doesn't quite do anything for me. It's just not quite the right something with the reddish browns and grays - meaning it also isn't quite right with the slight red-yellow of the fir.

    I like the colors of devine lock better - not sure if I'd choose burr oak or post oak.

    Lastly - am wondering if you're sensitive to wood overload? Cause you're going to add a significant quantity of wood grain. I'm not sure it would matter to me, but you've got a fair amount of texture going on now, so I'm just asking the question.

  • kirkhall
    11 years ago

    Looking at your blog--I like the brownish one better... I think it ties well to your cabinet color, backsplash and counters. But, it still has enough cool tone to go with your other cabinets and your stainless. It is also a nice warm with your wood floors.

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks for more input...All is welcome. I often am rather set in a decision, but this one isn't quite falling into place. A good idea to look into sheet Marmo. Still would have to deal with the 'patina' aspect, but worth considering.

    Bmore, I was wondering the same about too many woods in too many colors, which is one reason I leaned toward the gray, which has less color variation, and isn't a natural wood color to fight with the real ones. I think, though, that wood, being considered a neutral type of flooring material, and this one in a calmer color, would be OK with me. Still, a good thing to think about some more.

    The gray fake wood is about as close to the color of the current Marmoleum as I could get in any material, even other Marmoleums, so it's interesting that so many like it less...

  • PeterH2
    11 years ago

    > PeterH2, can you provide some more info on not installing cabinets on cork?

    Your base cabinets need to sit on a rigid foundation. If they are not firmly supported (sitting on a squishy layer of cork), they will shift over time, or when someone leans heavily on them, which will create gaps, may break the countertop, could open up plumbing joints, etc.

  • PeterH2
    11 years ago

    > if I need to add 3/8" of subfloor, then backer, then tile, the floor surface will be too high

    A finished tile floor would be about 3/4 - 7/8" thick over your existing subfloor (I am assuming your floor is not wildly unlevel). You don't need backer over the additional 3/8 subfloor (just use a "modified" thinset mortar), but if you want a waterproof floor, Ditra adds very little to the finished thickness (and is generally a Good Thing).

    Up to 1/4" height change at a doorway or other transition is no big deal, IMO; I think more than that looks odd/starts to be a trip hazard.

    The One True Material to use to reinforce a floor is Halex. Contractors will naturally try to use cheaper, inferior materials.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Halex underlayment

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    The floor is quite level. We are our own contractors, as far as building up the subfloor, so we'd have the choice about what to use to reinforce the floor. Good to know what's a quality option. The bigger problem with the height change is the openings for the dishwasher. I'm not sure we have room to go a lot higher than what we have now, which is less than 1/2" above the subfloor. I'll have to check.

  • jerzeegirl
    11 years ago

    I don't know if you are still interested in tile or not but some companies are making what's called "thin tile". It has to be set on an absolutely level stable base but if my translation from mm to inches is correct, it look like they can be as thin as 1/4 inch. And they look fantastic.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Thin tiles

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Good point. I actually started this process looking at the thin tiles (Kerlite,specifically), then thought I didn't need to go that route. I could consider it again. Might have the 'lippage' issue if DIY'd, though, or the upcharge for labor, since I think it's rectified.

  • bmorepanic
    11 years ago

    Have you looked at something like pergo? I found that some of their products are backed with HDF - samples survived 3 days of being immersed in water with no visible change at all.

    I'm sorry marmoleum click didn't hold up.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Lumber liquidators gray oak.

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    That's what the Click had between the Marmo and cork, and that's what swelled. Guess we don't know how long it took to get that way. But the flooring guys told me to avoid laminates or anything with that same wood-based core.

  • bmorepanic
    11 years ago

    I tried out a bunch of different products and most stuff failed the water tests but pergo didn't at all.

    I had never read the fine print on the Marmoleum click until now - they're pretty up front with it not being able to take water or maybe they just recently learned to say that clearly. Unfortunately, their spec sheets aren't really informative about the base material. I'd bet on it being ldf - the same thing used as a vinyl underlayment but I could find any written information from forbo.

  • steph2000
    11 years ago

    This thread is very relevant for me. I want to find a "wood look" product for flooring throughout the public space when we do the remodel. I've been researching - and one company insists that vinyl plank is really the only way to go. We are on a cement slab and the consensus so far has been to be very twitchy about engineered wood or laminate given the core material holding water.

    Stopped by a place, today, though that really was trying to sell me on a laminate. It has this realistic wood grain texture and the sales person and her neighbor both have it throughout their public spaces, including kitchens. Apparently, the stuff is impervious to pets, etc. I'm going to research it when I can find some time, but I'm skeptical.

    I really appreciate the thread and will be interested in see people's journeys with this. Please, please post pics and information as you folks move foward.

    Hags00 - do you mind sharing the name/color of your pretty laminate?

    I'll let you know if I find anything out here in my own research.

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I know when we got our Wilsonart Estate Plus in our previous home, Pergo and one other rated as highly for their high pressure laminate construction... And I liked our Wilsonart very much for durability, so was a little excited about your suggestion, Bmore. But I also think they had, at that time, big box store Pergo and flooring store Pergo, of different prices and quality. Do they make different quality levels of Pergo now?

    When I looked on the Pergo website, and did a retailer search near my zip code, they listed only Home Depot and Lowes. And when I read reviews on those sites, there were too many (for my comfort) complaints about bubbling and problems due to moisture... Also lots of defects within a batch. Quality control sounded terrible. I was disappointed... So I wondered if you'd found, possibly, a different product, but also made by Pergo?

    Looking forward to hearing what you find and go with, Steph2000. Best wishes in your search!

  • jerzeegirl
    11 years ago

    If you are interested in engineered wood then I heartily recommend Lausanne flooring (with titanium coating). I am certain it will not withstand flooding or prolonged water seepage (no wood floor will), but my doggie had a few little "accidents", which I didn't see right away, and there was no harm to the floor. I am very impressed with it. We were considering it for the kitchen but we worried about how dirty it would get in the kitchen since you are not really supposed to clean it with water.

    One of the primary reasons I preferred tile in the kitchen is that I love cleaning it with the Shark steamer. The floor always looks so beautiful after a steam cleaning!

  • maire_cate
    11 years ago

    If you decide on tile then research epoxy grout. It's more expensive to install because it's a 3 part mixture and there's a limit to how long you can work it before it starts to set. But it doesn't stain. Our porcelain is oatmeal colored and the grout matches it. The grout in the high traffic area by the back door gets dirty (think 2 rottweilers and a lab) and I can ignore it for months at a time before I finally decide to clean it. With a little scrubing it quickly returns to the original cream color. I do need to get a steam mop though.

  • bmorepanic
    11 years ago

    I know what you mean about the hd version and the retail version. I believe the mighty box stores now carry some of the retail versions and I tested a sample of American cottage which I found at hd.

    I don't know anything more recent - meaning last four years or so. I tried to look at colors, but got distracted by whitewashed pine. They don't seem long on grays.

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I have a headache. Just spent my evening on The Floor Pro community forums, mostly reading on LVT after being led there by the flooring forum here. Yikes. So many brands and styles have complaints. Most seem to say glue down vinyl tiles instead of trusting the click-together joints. Some of the clicks have come apart, peaked at the seams, and even some that have scratched and scuffed something awful. There were several questions, but absolutely no feedback on the 2 brands I'm considering.

    After my oven sagas, remembering installation challenges the pros had with our wood floors (that if I hadn't seen and complained, wouldn't have been caught until it was a HUGE job to fix), and the current kitchen floor problems, I just want something that is foolproof, and will go in right and stay right. Just like no perfect appliance choice, there is no perfect floor either, I guess. I hate the 'close my eyes, hold my breath, and hope' method...

  • ae2ga
    11 years ago

    I've read this thred with interest but really had nothing to contribute until today...

    On Friday, I stood on a tile over cement floor for three hours helping to frost 20 dozen cupcakes. O.M.G. my legs and knees hurt so badly; even today, my legs sstill feel tired and achey. I have a much greater appreciation for my wood floors.

    I think your concern about the comfort of the floor is valid. When I was youngeer, I never noticed these sorts of things, but now, at age 50,, Imost certainly do.

  • mabeldingeldine_gw
    11 years ago

    Rhome, it took a while, but here's my take on installing the vinyl plank floor.

    The most difficult part was getting started and getting a feel for the material. The directions call for scoring and snapping, and amazingly, that worked, but to do so we needed to score twice with a sharp blade, and I mean sharp. We went through blades like crazy.

    For cutting around objects, I like my method of making a template, then cutting. That worked great. Figuring out how to lay the planks to leave no length shorter than 12 inches was a challenge, and to be honest, we cheated. We needed 2 boxes of planks, and it was close, so we scrimped in areas that won't see a lot of traffic. I would urge you t start in the location that is least visible just to give yourself some peace of mind.

    Our was adhesive, and very sticky. When laying the tile I found it best to fit a corner, then the edge very tightly before laying it down together. It does not separate easily, and in one case, we cracked one of the tabs trying to separate 2 tiles.

    Time will tell how it wears, but it feels great underfoot, and in my opinion is very DIY friendly. I've included a photo which shows the floor.

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks, so much, Mabeldingeldine! Our flooring guy said adhesive isn't necessary and makes the installation much tougher... Not sure whether to believe him or not. Being diehard DIYers, Hubby is not convinced at my idea to pay for professional installation. I could probably face 2 boxes and a floor the size of a bathroom, but we'll have approximately 18 boxes to put in, and he has no time to do the list that already existed before the floor acted up. That makes me nervous...

    But, really, thanks. The floor looks great!!

  • mabeldingeldine_gw
    11 years ago

    Rhome, I was unclear, the adhesive I was referring to is on the plank tabs -- each tab has adhesive and they stick together. The floor "floats."

    If you are looking at 18 boxes, I would definitely hire out, and I almost always prefer to do things myself, my way. But 18 boxes... yikes.

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Ohhh. I've got it now. Ours has an interlocking edge, so no adhesive.

    Yikes is right!! It was ok with the Marmoleum Click that was bigger and stiff, so easier to handle and click together. The salesman said the vinyl tile had more of a learning curve, where you'd have to get used to it and develop a system. Right now, I just want it done. That's sort of selfish for me to say, and hard, since we DIY EVERYthing... but I'm tired, and I see that DH is, too!

  • desertsteph
    11 years ago

    mabeldingeldine - what brand of vinyl planks are in the pic you posted? I'm still trying to decide what flooring to put in a few rooms. Don't know yet if I want to go with a wood look or not - but I like the one you posted.

    hags00 - is the one you posted Allure traffic master?

  • mabeldingeldine_gw
    11 years ago

    Steph, the one we have is Shaw's brand in Harvest. I don't think next to our wood floor it will fool anyone, but it looks pretty good in our small bath, and was fairly easy to install. If it ever needs to come out, we'll have a nice template for sheet flooring.

  • hags00
    11 years ago

    Yes, it is their white color even though there is no white in it!

  • desertsteph
    11 years ago

    thx mabeldingeldine and hags00! I will look them both up and find where I can see them locally.

    I am so tired of looking at and thinking about 'what' flooring!

    hags00 - I wouldn't want real white floors but yours looks fine to me. I want something that isn't too dark and has very little pattern. Yours fits both of those! oh, and the puppy fur wouldn't show on it - lol!

    btw rhome - what color is your dog?

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    One of our dogs is a German Shepherd mix, so black and tan. The other is a yellow Lab, so gold-beige... why do you ask?

  • Rainwood
    11 years ago

    Rhome -

    I didn't spot this thread earlier, but will add my two cents. I'm a few years older (58) and also live in the PNW. We have tile floors in the bathrooms (heated) and tile at the front entry and mud room that is unheated. I'm thankful every day that we don't have unheated tile floors in the kitchen. Too hard and too cold. And it's the kind of cold that goes through a thick pair of socks unless they are wool. I tend not to wear shoes in the house, and those tile floors are a chilling surprise every time I stand on them for more than 15 seconds.

    We did pre-finished hardwood which is a bit more forgiving in a lot of ways. This is a beach house and we have a large dog who refuses to let anyone (including the vet techs) near her with nail clippers, plus wet and sand. We have oak that's kind of a busy grain in sort of a honey color. It hides just enough, and I don't sweat the patina it will get over the years. When it gets bad, we'll have it refinished.

  • desertsteph
    11 years ago

    "One of our dogs is a German Shepherd mix, so black and tan. The other is a yellow Lab, so gold-beige... why do you ask?"

    You want to join the 'does your dog/pet match your kitchen' thread don't you?

    It sounds like maybe you could use both colors of that flooring in your kitchen. divide the room in fourths... do it half and half... or stripe it!

    lol!

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks for the input, Rainwood. I am tired of being cold, and really want no more reason to add to the problem! So I think the vinyl tiles will suit better.

    Desertsteph, I think the yellow lab does kind of blend, and I really have no wish to match to the kitchen to the black one! She matches one of the cats, so that will have to do. ;-) What I do want the floors to match is the mud they might bring in on their feet! lol

    And BTW, everyone, I think I'm now leaning back to the grayish flooring. It's the safest in terms of being close to what we have, and it was the one that grabbed me initially. I also prefer the more natural graining, and am a little afraid of the variation I may find in the brown flooring. Plus, I'm still liking the beach house feel of it, which is hard to explain, but feels relaxed and warm to me. I stopped and spoke to others at the flooring store today and am satisfied I'm not giving up any quality in choosing it over the brown.

  • hags00
    11 years ago

    Steph - I felt the same way about it...it never looked dirty! It was mostly gray with a bit of taupe in it, I just have no idea why the color name was "white".

  • desertsteph
    11 years ago

    92563rhome - you should be safe with both dogs and the grey floor. my pup is reddish brown and her shed fur blends in with my kitchen / hall flooring that is greyish beige.

    hags00 - "mostly gray with a bit of taupe in it"

    that sounds just like what I need for the floors butting up to my kitchen/hall area which is greyish beige. I don't have enough of it tho to do all of the rooms I have left to do. Our HD has the 'white' so I'll go in there later this week with a sample of what I have to see how they look together.

  • Fori
    11 years ago

    You know how I feel about sheet Marmoleum in grey.

    even with celery!

  • rhome410
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Funny... I run across those pics every once in awhile and think, "There's Fori's gray and celery combo!"