I have a base blind corner cabinet, and I use it a lot and actually have grown to like. The things I store in it I don't know how I'd store in either a susan or a drawer base -- things like a long electric griddle, and a fryer -- I wouldn't want the oil slopping around in a drawer. Having these things close by saves me a trip to the basement when I want to use them. I keep the griddle where I can grab the handle easily and pull it out, but I also have in there plastic pitchers and things I use only in the summer, and a waffle iron, rice cooker, and bread pans. I organize it so that the things I use all the time are in the easily grabbed positions and the lesser used are further back. It might involve getting on my hands and knees to get some of the lesser-used items, but the blind corner cabinet holds a ton of stuff so the occasional down-on-my-knees reach is a price I'm willing to pay to have the space. I think it's a cabinet that when it's all that will work is sure nice to have -- better than closing off the space and not having access to it at all, anyway. In a previous house I had a corner base that I didn't use at all but I think the difference is the size of the door that accesses it, I have a 20" door on this one, I'm pretty sure the last one was 12" or less -- it was too small to be able to see anything in the cabinet, so things just got lost in there. Door size matters with these things, I think.

We chose to have a blind corner cabinet. There are drawers next to one side of the corner and the sink cabinet next to the other side. It opens into the sink cabinet. We didn't want to move the sink down to make room for a corner susan - partly because of placement under the window, but also because it would interfere with the plan for the rest of that run. We didn't want to give up drawer space in order to have something like the Rev-a-shelf pull out there.

The blind corner cabinet opens into the sink cabinet. We have a couple of utility bins in it with extra cleaning supplies - not stuff that we have to access every day. It isn't fully utilized, but we get some use out of it. The bins mean that we don't have to crawl into the cabinet to get to stuff. When we need something toward the back of the bin, we can pull it out.

For us, this use of the space was better than not using it at all or giving up other storage that we wanted to make room for a corner cabinet.

Similar to cloud_swift I currently have a blind corner that opens into the sink base. I h-a-t-e it with a passion. The added difficulty of maneuvering items around the pipes just makes it horrible to deal with. At first I was dead-set against a blind-corner for my reno. Then I figured I had to at least consider it. As LWO said, sometimes kitchen architecture dictates a blind corner. Any other cabinet choice impacts 2 different cabinet runs. I have pretty much decided to flip the cabinet on my peninsula to open from a dining room. Depending on your layout that may also be an option.

Got rid of *5* blind corners in my kitchen reno (had 3 lowers and 2 uppers!). If you have to, you have to, but I did find them a big pain. The biggest problem for me was the darkness... it's one thing to have to bend and reach in, but you can't see what you're reaching for.
Here's my new corner base now. No susan (by choice), and I find it very useful:

I got rid of my blind corner cab in the new reno. I detested the blind corner. Too long, too dark, and impossible to find anything without an outback guide, flashlight, and survival supplies. Replaced the the corners with shorter cabs and lazy Susan's and love them

We have a blind upper that I chose. Partly due to symmetry, and partly due to the fact that I wanted a wider cabinet on that wall, rather than one the was split. I actually like it. I store things in the back that are used very infrequently, but that I would like to keep around (fondue pot, extra food processor work bowls).

I just got 2 corner bases like co-co, and love it way more than my old blind corner. I hated crawling on my hands & knees to take stuff out to get to a roasting pan, etc. Now I can still store large items there like big pots, griddle, etc., but can easily reach it all.

Curious to know if any BCC owners have cabinet pull-outs that make using the storage and accessing items easier. From the sounds of it, everyone who's posted so far has a cabinet without any pull-outs. True?

We may be in the same position as Cloud_Swift with a BCC opening into the sink cabinet. I'd like to find a way to do a corner cabinet (DeWils has this nifty 3-bin corner cab that would be so handy for us) but that means moving the sink, which means replacing the window to keep the sink under the window, which means shrinking the glassware cabinet between window and fridge. I like your solution, Cloud_Swift. Good to know you have this since I recall you also have DeWils cabinets.

Live wire...I consciously chose to do blind corners in both my upper and lowers. I personally hate the way corner cabinets look. I have plenty of storage in my kitchen so I was not worried about losing any storage. Call me crazy :)

lisa - no pullouts here, but I looked at them extensively and they're pretty popular. I loved the rev-a-shelf solution but didn't have the clearance it needed because of a nearby fridge that wasn't flush with the cabinets.

I did read that when something (e.g. a can, etc.) calls off the blind corner pullouts it can be a real pain to retrieve it, which has to be done before the unit can go back in. However, I have a great pair of rubber tipped tongs that I use for reaching everything else, so I don't think the fear of falling things would deter me if I ever found a unit that would work. Now the price, that's a different story -- some of the units were in the $550 range. Yikes.

I actually really like ours, but we paid a lot for a silly little gadget (that I love, not complaining! ;) to make it more accessible. We were also in livewireoak's category of not having a choice based on the architecture---not feasible to open it to the adjacent room or put in a corner cabinet without rendering the nearby cabinet run useless, so our choice was just blind corner vs. true blind corner (just cut the space off completely). Because we needed to store appliances there, the true blind option didn't work---it would have yielded an 18" drawer bank or cabinet that wasn't big enough to take the appliances that needed to go into it. So we went the gadget route and it's worked out nicely.

I'll also add that I *loved* our old blind corners---two of them---in our circa 1940 cabinets. They were shallow cabinets (one reason we scrapped them) with two doors instead of the one that's standard today, but that made the blind corners work in a way that modern ones don't---you could reach in easily all the way to the back so though they just had fixed shelves they were very functional. (The shallow counter that sat on top? Not so much...) But there might be some ways to put false backs into the cabinets and mimic this in some way to make the interior shallower (giving up some storage space, of course, but in exchange for function).

We have one blind corner cabinet, and one Haefele Magic Corner II at opposite ends of a long run of base cabinets. I find the Haefele Magic Corner II much more useful, but it wasn't an option at the other end: the dimensions wouldn't permit it. In our old kitchen, I had a Lazy Susan in a corner base cabinet: didn't think much of that arrangement. I like the Haefele sliding shelves more.
Lynn

We have one blind corner cabinet, and one Haefele Magic Corner II at opposite ends of a long run of base cabinets. I find the Haefele Magic Corner II much more useful, but it wasn't an option at the other end: the dimensions wouldn't permit it. In our old kitchen, I had a Lazy Susan in a corner base cabinet: didn't think much of that arrangement. I like the Haefele sliding shelves more.
Lynn

Lisa, we weren't willing to give up any of our drawer cabinet space in order to do a corner cabinet. A pull out unit such as Rev-a-shelf requires a 15" opening beyond the corner. The corner lazy susans or hinged doors require 12" or more on each side of the run (bigger means easier access). Also, when we tried them in some model homes, we didn't particularly like the operation of the hinged door. We did think about the other options, but this was the best for us. We keep our stand mixer on the counter and have enough other storage for some of the bulky things that Co-co has in her corner cabinet - under the prep sink, one of the 12" deep cabinets on the back of the island and in the pantry. Some things that we want closer to hand fit in the drawers that we didn't have to sacrifice.

We also thought about putting a door through the dining room wall to access the blind corner from there, but we have a piece of furniture that we prefer to keep there. Or insulating and isolating that cabinet so that we could put a door on the outside wall to use it for storage opening into the patio, but that seemed to complicated and not a particularly good spot.

What size sink are you planning for? The largest blind corner cabinet that Dewils makes is 48" - 24" for the blind part and 24" for doors. We needed 36" for the sink and didn't want the sink to go into the corner. Our solution was to buy a 36" sink cabinet and a 24" cabinet with one shelf to sit in the corner facing the side of the sink cabinet. The contractor cut out most of the side of the sink cabinet so that the blind corner can be accessed from it:

Notice that there is a small filler to the left of the blind cabinet so that the drawers don't hit the handles on the sink cabinet doors. Also, the blind cabinet is pulled forward from the back wall by a couple of inches so that the sink cabinet doors don't bang the handles on the drawers.

Here's what it looks like with the counter and sink in place (with obligatory apples):

Inside the cabinet with the sink installed:

Thanks, Cloud_Swift, this is really helpful info!

Another reason why we're contemplating a set-up similar to what you have is that the exterior faucet and piping runs off the same line that connects to our sink plumbing. We have access to it now with our corner sink cabinet and we'd like to maintain access to it when we move our sink just out of the corner like your sink is. It may never be necessary to have access to this piping but it sure would be nice to have access should it develop a leak (heaven forbid!).

We also contemplated insulating this space and creating a storage cubby accessible from the exterior. Also ditched the idea for the same reasons you did.

Thanks for all that responded. I'm surprised at all the comments with people that are happy with them.

Like Clooney, I don't like the look of corner cabinets, so we consciously have blind corners on both lower and upper. I keep all my cans of paint and stain in the lower one, it's a perfect place for that because we don't have a basement and it gets too hot here in the summer to keep them in the garage. I have them organized, and a little "map" so that I can easily find any of them.

I think I am going with a blind corner just because I can't give up the space for anything different. I was looking at some of those pullouts, and to be honest it seems to me they only allow you to use a very small percentage of the space! Maybe thats ok in a bigger kitchen with lots of storage space, but storage is precious in my kitchen so I can't afford to give any up!

I am going to go with a blind corner and just be selective about what gets stored in there. Only items that aren't used on a daily basis, so I'm not always crawling around to get stuff. I'm thinking about installing a light on the inside with a little switch right by the door so I can see what I am looking for.

Now the big question is how large a door do I need? I would like to put a drawer base right next to it, but the size of the drawer base is dictated by the size of the door on the corner cab. I'd love to get away with 15" door on the corner cab, but from reading above it seems I might need larger (Kris_ma recommended at least 20"). Does anybody else have some insight on this? I can give up a bit of drawer space if not doing to would render the corner cab completely useless.

I did the math once. There is very little difference in storage capacity between having a total lost space blind corner and having most corner solutions. The advantage to a corner solution is that it's easier to make it work with full overlay cabinet doors, and especially the knobs/pulls which tend to run into each other. Corner solutions include lazy susans/super susans, magic corner type pullouts, double half moon swing outs, etc.

Corner drawers, comparing like to like, have a similar storage capacity to pie cut susans. They excel in convenience, however, and because they easily come in three or four levels, rather than the two you usually find in a corner, and since, if you don't demand full extension, you can make them go all the way back, they can, functionally, give you the most, and most easily accessible, storage solution.

The completely open corner cabinet, such as Co-co showed above, is an exception. That does maximize the storage space, though, as you can see in Co-co's photo, people tend not to maximize their use of it, and usually only put in one shelf, if any.

Intermediate solutions, in terms of storage ability (hold more than corner solutions but less than totally open), are the full circle susans that create a diagonal cabinet across the corner, and Arlosmom ROTS. Full circle susans have about 20% more storage than the total blind corner, partly because it grabs area from the floorspace of the kitchen. An issue with it is that the opening is fairly narrow compared to the cabinet, but people in tight kitchens like them a lot for storing pots, mixing bowls and small appliances. These larger things are easy to choose without seeing far into the cabinet, and don't try to fall off. If something does get stuck inside, however, it's a PITA to get in there and unstick it. The pie cut susan cabinets have the same issues, but a wider opening. Only a 5% or so advantage over true blind, however.

Another way to handle a blind corner is the Arlosmom "Costco cupboard". That's where you have roll out tray shelves in the blind corner that pull into the cabinet, much like the shelves by Cloud Swift's sink, above, where ROTS wouldn't work because of the plumbing. The reason it's a "Costco" cupboard, however, is that whatever is right behind the door needs to be bulky enough to be moved easily to get at the pullouts. The newer corner solution, I think by Haefele, double pullout where pulling out the face cabinet trays pulls trays from the blind corner to the door opening, is based on this idea as well, while giving you trays to hold smaller things than sleeves of coke and paper towels. I haven't measured the storage space on the last. It looks like it might hold more than the double half moons.

With anything of the sort, though, any pullout system, you have to be very careful about things falling off and jamming the mechanism. It's much harder to get into those kinds of cabinets, because of the tray mechanism, than it is to get into a susan cabinet or an Arlosmom one.

I have two sets of corner drawers, and two Arlosmom cabinets. The latter two are where there is something other than cabinetry on the outside of the blind corner. My cabinetmaker made the ROTS in the Arlosmom cabinets run on the shelves instead of attaching them to the cabinet sides, so the shelves are adjustable height, which is very cool. One of them is an upper, and I don't remember if there's anything stored in that corner yet. It's definitely for the stuff you never want to see but don't want to get rid of. The other is in my laundry room, feeding into the cabinet where my laundry sorters are, so pretty easy to get to.

We have the Hafele double pullout (Magic Corner) and it does a pretty good job of maximizing the space---Arlo's Mom solution would have been a bit better but we would have to move the stuff in the front to get to the back and that didn't work out well with what we planned to store there. Someone on GW also had custom trays made for the Hafele pullout that were deeper and better used the space, which is another option. It's not necessarily that it holds more than the half-moon pullouts, but that it fits in tight spaces where the bigger half-moon pullouts may not clear---our issue.

So I completely second measuring your space and deciding what to store there to see how to maximize it. In our case, because of the sizing of the space we were a couple of inches shy of being able to use the larger sizes of most of the half-moon pullouts, and were consequently relegated to the 15" door size version of many of them, which left a huge dead space in the back of our cabinet and was definitely no better than just having an open cabinet. (Our corner is unusual in that it's a 42" cabinet box with an 18" door on it and 2" of filler to clear the adjacent drawer bank, or something close to that, because of some structural stuff.) We couldn't pick up that one extra inch we needed to clear the next size up of the half-moon or kidney bean pullouts no matter how we smushed things. As it was, the pullout we used just barely clears (I think our cabinetmaker said it came down to a quarter inch clearance when he did the final install and he wiggled screws to get it to fit---we were fudging the numbers hoping it would work!) And it only worked at all because it attaches to the door---they make a version that hides behind a free-moving door that I would have much preferred, but it didn't fit. The door-mount version has worked out fine so far but I don't hold out hope that it will be a 20 or 30-year gadget (whereas I hope the cabinets will last at least that long!)

I know this is an old post but thought I'd add a note since people google and find it. In my previous kitchen, I had a similar set up to Co-co's and we had piano hinge doors in the 3 corners. They were great. We put an expensive lazy susan in one and it was OK (better than a blind corner), a cheap lazy susan in another and it was useless and we put shelves in the 3rd like Co-co's and loved it.

I now have another kitchen that has blind corners and I'm goggling for ideas. Tremedous lost space.

I've been struggling with my blind corner and what to do about it. I've been living with a lazy susan and never liked it. The other day I found a potato that had rolled off and rotted. I'd had enough and de-installed the lazy susan myself (my DH refused to help). That still leaves me with that corner door thing which I am also not so fond of and don't want in my sink counter cabinets, which are now in the planning stages.

I was looking at the "Costco pullout" solution that Arlo's mom used and have a modification that my DH says will work.

I want to use pullouts like she did but in the "Costco section" I want two more pullouts such that their drawer slides a mounted on the floor of the cabinet and the drawer slides for the blind corner are enough above that to clear the "Costco" section. I will put seldom used things in the blind corner (think holidays). The pullouts in the "Costco" section will be built such that they can be pulled out and removed when I want access to the blind corner part. It will be a sort of mini pantry style box with a handle at the top for easy removal. I plan to put baking pans and such there so it shouldn't be too heavy.

The access door will be in a 24 inch cabinet so I won't be struggling with such a small opening (like I am today with a 12 inch opening).

I hope this is clear. I've attached my crude (Excel created) drawing of the sink counter area (the blind corner is on the left). The narrow rectangles at the top are pullout cutting boards, which will be work areas for me (I am short). The yellowish part is my apron sink.

i have base blind corner with single door with 10" opening next to oven on one side and dishwasher on the L corner. Will appreciate any help - can not find anything with such a small opening.

My kitchen “blind corner is closed off. How best to open up and install a lazy Susan or similar