Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
luckyme7

Urgent!! Is this proposed change a faux pas?

luckyme7
9 years ago

Many of you are probably familiar with my kitchen layout as I posted it last week seeking review. I am incorporating a few changes to this design one of which is to move the fridge to the extreme right. We are making the island a little bigger - so we wanted to make sure the clearance wasn't an issue. The designer said this will create a 5 ft nook in between oven tower and fridge. I have read in some of the posts here that we shouldn't put a tall object that breaks the counter space flow. So is moving the fridge away from over tower a bad idea or will it create a nice little functional look?

for now let us assume that I am keeping the corner pantry - so that will be another tall object breaking the counter flow.

Comments (24)

  • OOTM_Mom
    9 years ago

    Well, moving it so the doors have more room to open (not across from island) is a positive. And 60" of counter is probably long enough that it wont feel like a little cave. Will you have undercabinet lighting? Some others mentioned that it puts your fridge pretty far from your work triangle, but it will also keep all the traffic out of your work area too...kids standing and gazing into the fridge, lol. It it pretty far from your sink...but I think you were considering a prep sink in the island? Consider in cabinet lighting and glass fronts for the two 30" uppers. Will your fridge have a fridge cabinet around it?

    I have a similar wall, but my fridge is near my triangle. Here's a picture. The two center cabinets have glass and lights in them now.

  • _sophiewheeler
    9 years ago

    It makes it imperative to have a prep sink on the island.

  • luckyme7
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I am not planning in getting under cabinet lighting as it is a $1300 upgrade.

  • brightm
    9 years ago

    IIRC you are building? It shouldn't be THAT much of an upgrade for UCL at this stage, I wouldn't think. Definitely, definitely, definitely get the electrical done for it. You can add the actual lighting later. It should be two or three outlets in your upper cabinets on a switch. I think I spent a lot on supplies because it was a system and company I understood and trusted and mine was $300-ish for the lights.
    Your lengths might be a bit longer, but otherwise your lighting layout would be similar to mine (link below). I have one outlet in the 48" upper and one on the left of the range (right of the range as the pic is oriented). The switch is in the bottom right of photo.

    I wouldn't think it would be $1000 for the parts and labor for the outlets and switches in this context, but I'd ask. I'd find something else to cut now. It's never going to be easy (or even possible?) to add without the electrical after the fact. And they make all the difference in the world.

    You can add some that wouldn't work on a switch and that would just plug in to your regular kitchen outlets, but then you're giving up outlets and can't just flip a switch to have them on. Ours are on almost always. In the evening even when we leave the kitchen, we leave them on.

    Here is a link that might be useful:

  • marcolo
    9 years ago

    You can't afford undercabinet lighting, but you're putting in 5 feet of completely useless cabinetry that's miles away from every work zone?

    Did you say whether you're adding a prep sink to the island? Because without it, this kitchen enters the realm of truly spectacular dysfunction.

  • tracie.erin
    9 years ago

    I don't like it. It puts it rather far away, and the island would then become a barrier, even if it did have a prep sink in it. I can see myself bumping my hip.

    NKBA Guidelines, Rule 3, Note thereto:
    "No work triangle leg may intersect an island/peninsula or other obstacle by more than 12"."

    Here is a link that might be useful: NKBA Kitchen Design Rules, Illustrated

  • bmorepanic
    9 years ago

    I'm going to mention something else. If you have stated 43" aisles, those will actually be reduced by counter overhangs AND appliance handles. The decrease will be at least 3" and can be up to 6".

    IF you are a methodical cook, the ref location may not bother you but it would me. Moving the ref so far (11+ feet to the range and I think around 14 feet to sink) would make everyday cooking a drag for me.

    I think I'd explore orienting the island lengthwise with maybe two seats off the end. It could be more like 4' by 8' with a rounded 24" overhang or some other pleasing dimension. Place a prep sink towards the seating end on the same side as the ref to provide water and a drain to use for everyday quick prep that could double as a bar.

  • luckyme7
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I will be adding the prep sink...

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    Unless you need a new panel there is no way the lighting should be a $1300 upgrade. If you need a new panel it will be a lot more than $1300. Something is very wrong with that estimate. Does the contractor need you to make this month truck payment?

  • luckyme7
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    It is the builder's pricing practigal...I know it's unreasonable. But they won't negotiate ...

  • HomeChef59
    9 years ago

    My kitchen designer said to me the other night that no kitchen follows every rule. Compromise is necessary. Do what you like. Just be sure that you understand the tradeoffs.

  • a2gemini
    9 years ago

    Is there a chance of doing a pocket door for your pantry?
    We did that and it is great especially with a motion sensor light.

    I agree with others to wire for UCL. I love ours:-)

  • brightm
    9 years ago

    Don't ask for UCL. Ask for switched outlets in specific locations. See if that makes a difference. (I know that wasn't your focus for the thread, but I thought it might be something I could have done without too, and now that I have it, I know how poor of a decision that would have been.)

  • Jeannine Fay
    9 years ago

    Another vote for UCL. My lighting isn't complete yet so I've been working in the kitchen without the UCL and I do not like it. Too many shadows on my prep space. If you light it, you use it. If it's dark you avoid it.

  • luckyme7
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    You guys are killing me with UCL! I just feel like the amount the builder is charging is a rip off...my theory is that I will do all my prep work in the island where I will have 2-3 pendants. Under cooktop the light from hood will serve as UCL. I will add a pendant over the sink as well. Besides this I will have 4- 6 recessed lights in kitchen. I have 3 large windows for natural light during the day. Do I still need UCL?

    I like the switched outlet idea - will certainly ask about that during electrical walk through.

  • christina222_gw
    9 years ago

    Yes, you need under cabinet lighting and also in cabinet lighting if you have any glass doors. Your builder is ripping you off on the cost though. Tell him you've researched the cost and he needs to come down. If he can't do it for a reasonable price then you'll get your own bids from another sub. If he refuses to be reasonable then arrange for the power to be placed as described above so those lights can be installed as soon as possible after you have ownership.

  • christina222_gw
    9 years ago

    Here's my kitchen with the lights on and the UCL on. I forgot to turn on the hood light over the stove so there's the one dark spot.

  • christina222_gw
    9 years ago

    Sorry I'm on my iPad so can't do two pics in one post. Here's my kitchen with the lights on but the UCL off, as you can see it makes a big difference.

  • luckyme7
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the perspective Christina - do you have separate lighting over your island/ peninsula or over your sink?

  • christina222_gw
    9 years ago

    I have pendants on order for over the peninsula and sink, the wiring is already there. They will be dimmable and switched separately, same as the UCLs. I often have just the UCLs and in cabinets lights on. It gives the room a soft glow and is nice at night. Plenty of light for getting a drink or a snack without lighting up the whole place.

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    Please follow Christina222!s advice, it is excellent. Builders can be absolutely disgusting with their gouging. Many of them will refuse to do small jobs unless there's 200% profit. Don't feel bad about it either, the builder obviously doesn't.

  • luckyme7
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Can you elaborate on switched outlet? Will the light still hang from the cabinet or will it be on the backsplash kind of like a night light?

  • luckyme7
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Oh, I figured out what you mean...I have those at work. I will definitely ask about those.

  • christina222_gw
    9 years ago

    I just meant that my overheads, pendant, under cabinet and in cabinet lights are all on separate switches, so they can be turned on or off independently. It makes it nice for adjusting the lighting to suit the time of day or tasks being done at any given time.