Take cabinet 3 and put it next to the corner unit, pushing the range off the window trim. Then, use a 36" cabinet between the range and what I'm guessing is a sink cabinet in front of the other window.

You need to add a filler between the tall pantry cabinet and the wall. It can be very small, even 3/4" in some cases. This is actually required to permit the cabinet doors to operate correctly. Plus it helps keep the cabinet handle from banging into the wall. Also think about how you want to keep the entrance door from banging into the cabinets. We used adjustable door stops that slide onto the hinge pins.

If you shift both the pantry and cabinet 5 towards the sink cabinet, you might end up with enough room to build a narrow pull out broom closet near the wall. Or a place to put a step ladder or wine bottles. Ikeafans has ideas for those types of projects. If its too much trouble for a resale kitchen, I'd still consider consolidating the filler on the end.

If the little wall near the ref doesn't exist, don't build it. It's particularly bad to have a wall be deeper than the ref sides. Refrigerator doors almost always open by the hinge moving the door off to the side. As shown in the drawing, your refrigerator door would have trouble opening at all. If you leave an inch or two of space, you might possibly lose the ability to open drawers within the ref. And you may not be able to cleanit the ref without pulling it forward.

It's more trouble to get the spacing right to a wall than to use cover panels. It's always good to remember that an over-the-ref cabinet needs 3 points of support - like both sides and the back or through the top into a framing member, the back and one side.

Sometimes, the ref looks better if the over the ref cabinet is pulled forward to match the depth of the sides, but sometimes the hinges get in the way. Refrigerators are not standard heights, so pick yours out in advance. THEN pick out the correct height for the over the ref cabinet after you've verified the hinge locations. You can always put trim under a cabinet that is a little short, but there's no jamming that ref under a cabinet that is too long.

Generally speaking, it's cheaper and better to use larger cabinets when possible. It's more efficient to use all drawer bases instead of something like a single drawer and then pull outs underneath. So think about maybe converting cabinet 7 to a big 4 drawer base (2 smaller drawers over 2 full width drawers).

Excellent advice. (Given your decision not to allocate budget for plumbing.)

I'm wondering about the current peninsula area. Since the kitchen will be on the outer wall, is that still the best use you can make of that space? It functions as a divider of course, but breaks up the space it's in--is that still good, or bad? What function do you see it still serving? It would be a nice serving bar. For socializing, the cook's back will be to it, so that's not that great. By the back door, it might be a great place to offload mail, gloves, etc. Could some of its cabinets be used to store that stuff if that's the case?

I'm just asking in case it's time to take a new look at the whole area. Might you want to place a table in that area, for instance, and build storage elsewhere?

How about having no corner? This might be more functional. If you have 18" b/w corner and window an MW shelf can be added when you are selling the house or it can be in the pantry cab.

I don't know much about Ikea cabs, but maybe you can use 42" high cabs on the island, if they're available and within the budget, so the island can be a serving/bar area.