Base cabinets 34.5" + counter 1.5"+ 18" gap between counter and upper + 36" upper = 90". If your cabinets sit on the finished floor, you have to add to that.

So it really depends on how much crown you want on top, whether your cabinets sit on the subfloor and whether you are willing to cheat your uppers down a little if necessary.

Personally, I would sit my cabinets on the subfloor and go with the 36" because I would want the extra room. Also my quartz and many granites are 30 mm which is 1.2 inches so you gain another 0.3" there.

Agree with hags00. You could get 36" cabs with little tweaks.

In that vein, I have 17" from counter to bottom of light rail. If you do that, can you have just a small molding on top and get your 36" cabs?

Yes, we decided we don't want alot of trim since the dining hutch on the other end of the room does not have much on top. Very plain.

I will have to tell my KD. Ugh. Thought we were all set. Now will be addtl cost for taller cabs. Oyyee..

Thank you!

Actually it might be lower. Aren't 33" cabinets a custom size where 36" is a standard size?

Oh, I see what you mean. But since Dynasty is semi-custom, I would think it wouldn't make a difference on the size? I'm just hoping there will not be much of a price adder. Already picked the tile to go with the cab and it doesn't look great with the Medallion.

And thought we were smooth sailing at this point. Two years ago when we first attempted this (I should say "I" first attempted this, since DH just went along with my decisions, basically :-) it was terrible trying to pick the color of the cab. Much quicker this time and found two that I really liked!! Ugh..

I don't think the cost will be a big difference. Mine were like $20 diffence from 30" to 36" with shenandoah cabinets.

Here's how to measure:

...34.50"..base cabinets
...01.25"..thick counter*
...18.00"..backsplash height
+.01.00"..(or so) light rail
..-----------
...54.75"

92" - 54.75" = 37.25"

What you have left is 37.25" and will include cabinets + crown molding. To accommodate any unevenness in your floor-to-ceiling height**, crown molding at least a few inches is recommended. Otherwise, any unevenness will be obvious and will detract from the overall look of your kitchen.

*Counter thickness can vary depending on material type, sometimes it's closer to 1", but plan for 1.25"

**It's a rare kitchen that has the exact same floor-to-ceiling height at every point in the kitchen. The vast majority of kitchens will have ceiling heights that could vary as much as 1" (sometimes more). A taller crown molding that includes a "filler" piece will give you the "wiggle room" you need to adjust the crown molding so you can't tell without a ruler.

Please, do not sit your cabinets on the subfloor! To do so will trap your DW and any other built-in appliance that sits on the floor (e.g., refrigerator)! DWs, for example, are designed so they fit in the space b/w the floor and the counter...if you put the cabinets in first and then the floor and then the DW and finally the counters, your DW will be trapped b/c it's sitting below the finished floor height with the counter material on top. When the DW has to be moved (for replacement or repair), you probably won't be able to get the DW out b/c it would have to be lifted up so it can be lifted off the subfloor to the level of the finished floor to be able to get it out...but...there's a fixed counter directly above it so it cannot be lifted up b/c the counter is in the way...

Even when people decide not to put the finished floor materials under the cabinets, they have to install a subfloor under the cabinets to the same height as the finished floor to avoid this issue.