Return to the Kitchens Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
cabinet refacing

Posted by hpny2 (My Page) on
Tue, Sep 24, 13 at 14:48

We've decided to reface our cabinets, because the layout and original boxes are in good shape and we don't want the hassles of a demo and not being able to use our kitchen until its all done. Anyway, we ordered everything but now I am reading some conflicting things about the pressure sensitive veneers we are using. Some posts say it works and adheres well, others say it will start to peel and bubble in time. Some sites I've checked out say that even with the adhesive on the back, you should still apply contact cement to the surface you are applying the veneers to, others say its not needed I don't mind doing that if it needs it, but I want to make sure that is correct. We don't want to do all the work just to find it peels off in a year or two. Can someone help me with this question? My husband and I are doing the project, he's very handy but we've never done this so we want to make sure we do it right. Help please if you can!


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: cabinet refacing

It all peels unless you can do it with a vacuum press. And that's not gonna happen on existing cabinets. The best you can hope for is for a 4-5 years, and probably less than that around the heat and steam locations.


 o
RE: cabinet refacing

I would think it depends on what you are sticking it to.
Using contact cement over old laminate (cleaned and sanded) will last a long time.


 o
RE: cabinet refacing

I am kind of regretting in ordering these veneers from what you tell me. Is that really all I can hope for, 4 - 5 years out of the refacing? We are applying the veneers over the wood face frames. For the side panels we are using sheets of 1/4" maple. The face frames are mainly my concern. The current finish is in good shape, we'll sand it and clean it well and then apply the veneers. Does the type you need to apply contact cement to last any longer? Unfortunately, we've already ordered the PSA veneers, but we will use the contact cement on the face frames if that will help it to adhere better. As I understand it, when using contact cement with non PSA veneers, you need to apply it to both the veneer back and the frame it is going on. So, if we use the PSA veneers, is the adhesive on them a type of contact cement? If so, it would stand to reason that you should apply contact cement to the frames as well, since contact cement bonds only when applied to both sides I believe. Is that right? Can anyone tell me what type of adhesive is on these PSA veneers? I want to do whatever is best to make it last.


 o
RE: cabinet refacing

I think the only "person" who can answer what is on your PSA veneers, is your manufacturer. What do they recommend?


 o
RE: cabinet refacing

I think the only "person" who can answer what is on your PSA veneers, is your manufacturer. What do they recommend?


 o
RE: cabinet refacing

If it is a decent psa I would not use contact adhesive ever.
If it is one of the better "3M" brand "VHB" (very high bond)
Added- there is typiocally a repeating 3M logo on the back
AND you are going to a good surface-well finished wood, AND they are free from grease AND you wipe with a lint free cloth using alcohol that you let dry AND you are applying narrow strips (not to the 12" sides) then apply plenty of pressure across the surface (they sell a tool for it). THEN...
The bond is nearly permanent.

I've used the 3M adhesives in multiple applications for decades. There are outdoor signs where you live that are held together with them.

OTOH- if the adhesive is anything else, there is a poor substrate, or application then... all bets are off

If you ended up with a knock off PSA-I would first test a strip as is. The adhesive needs 24 hrs to cure (it is not the same as contact) if it is any good and the substrate is suitable it will be close to impossible to peal up in 24 hrs.
If the surface you are applying to is poor you've got a problem.

Sides should be done with 1/8"-1/4" panels and a scribe strip, not the psa as that is too wide. .

This post was edited by jakuvall on Wed, Sep 25, 13 at 14:44


 o
RE: cabinet refacing

Wow, thank you so much for that helpful reply! We did a lot of research in choosing a reputable supplier. I'll let you know when the materials arrive how good the quality is. We did purchase 1/4" end panels, and 1/8" ends for one place where the 1/4" would have been too thick to fit. All the panels are coming precut to fit which simplifies it a bit too. Our basic cabinet boxes are very sound, just worn looking after 28 years. The doors are worn too, and I wasn't interested in stripping and refinishing (too much mess, fumes and work! ) Besides that, the current cabinets are oak, which is very outdated now and we really wanted a change, so we're going with maple, in a lighter finish than we have now. I guess we'll use the self adhesive without the contact cement and hope for the best!


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Kitchens Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here