Picture yourself cooking. Think of a recipe that involves washing, chopping, and sauteing vegetables. Or rinsing and cutting up a chicken.

In this layout, you start at the fridge. You go to the sink. You move left to chop and prep, and you put things in little bowls or whatever. Now you're carrying each bowl or carrot or onion back across the sink again to cook, every time you add an ingredient.

Prep sinks make a lot of sense in a lot of spaces, but I don't think that's what your kitchen necessarily needs. The point for multiple cooks in a narrow space is to limit the amount of crossings. One thing that would help that would be to put the fridge on the dining room side of the kitchen. This disturbs your other fixtures, however, and I don't know your other constraints. Marcolo is right about the flow of work, though some people prefer the fridge nearer to the stove and don't care so much about how close it is to the sink.

If your food generally goes from stove to table, swapping the stove with the DW would work as well.

Re prepping: One doesn't actually need a sink. One can do very well with a couple of bowls. Running water is a newfangled luxury. I'd hesitate to swap so much counter and cupboard space for a secondary sink in your space.

It looks like there is a lot of remaining wall space (pantry area and next to fridge) that is going unused. It doesn't look like you will have sufficient counterspace next to the sink.
What I would consider is moving the range to the wall where you have the fridge. Then, give up one of the 15" pantries, making one large 30" pantry there, putting it on the end of that wall. Then move the fridge next to that. Then center the sink and DW on that opposite wall since you've moved the range. I think the small peninsula would be sufficient landing zone for the fridge. I don't have a "landing zone" as such for my fridge - only the counterspace 5 ft across from it. But, we'll get used to that!
Just my 2 cents, good luck! Nice to see someone else who didn't convert the galley and make a gianormous kitchen in the DR. Nothing wrong with that at all, but it makes me feel like I'm not the lone ranger! :)

So, I'd move the fridge, kill the current prep sink, and swap the range with the current position of either the main sink or the DW.

Perhaps you could put a small bar sink in the peninsula, with a pretty, DR-worthy faucet. That would help keep paths from crossing somewhat.

If so, it doesn't look like you have enough clearance. I know you said you can't move walls, but can you make the wall dividing the LR smaller? If not, and clearance is tight, maybe taper off the edges of those pantry cabinets with angled cabinets.

If you eliminated the peninsula & moved the refrigerator to the DR end, it would place the refrigerator where it's easily accessed from the DR, LR, and Kitchen.

How about something like one of these? Note, however, that they would require shortening the LR wall by about 2'. A shorter LR opens up more possibilities.

In all 3, there's room to work on either side of the range as well as by the sink.

They also all have an 18" Message Center for calendar, phone, etc.

Layout #1

Layout #2:

Layout #3:

I know you came into this thinking you needed a prep sink, and I get the "but I want it" of it, but you can get the same function from a good sized single sink if you put it within reach of the range. In your original plan it was only a couple of feet away, with countertop between. It should be no big deal to put in a pull out/down faucet that will fill your pots, and to slide them along to empty.

The chop board cover is very efficient. I've used them. Get it for the "big" sink.

Oh, and be aware that a c/d fridge is something like 28" deep total, and integrated is 25" deep.

Your original plan wasn't bad (other than the extra sink--which is a quirk that you can do if you really want it assuming it's allowable by code). We were trying to refine it, but it'll work. As you come up with other solutions, do compare them to the first one and make sure you're not going too far away from the basics.

otherwise maybe put the fridge on the pantry side on the DR end and make the cabs shallower across from the fridge to allow for enough space between them.

if there is no possible way to move the sink that far maybe put the shallow cabs under the windows and widen them toward the right of that for the sink and stove placement. put the fridge on the left end of the pantry side.

It sounds like you are too busy thinking and becoming understandably frustrated about trying to make this all work. May I suggest that you take a look at the European kitchen or modular design websites for some inspiration for arrangement purposes? I believe it would help you to step back and give you some fresh ideas for your kitchen.

I noticed as I looked at your various plans a feeling of separation from the two adjacent rooms. My second suggestion would be to think about how you want those three rooms- kitchen, living and dining rooms to work together in the future and of course how they aren't working for you right now.

Also, looking at the 'problem wall' I think you still may have options. The support collumns are very close to one another, and it seems as though redistributing their load would open up a lot of options for you. And for a doorway you don't have the problems of hiding a beam in the ceiling - which is usually the expensive deal breaker.

My 2 cents:

I would do an L with the pantry wall narrowed and the doorway near the stairs moved over to allow a 30 in deep counter run on the left side. Looks as though you can leave the plumbing stacks alone closing off the doorway and extending the wall past the stacks. Then doorway. Then shortened pantry wall.

Start that left deep counter run with maybe a sliver of a pullout broom closet/cleaning closet, then a fulldepth fridge, then finish the run to the corner with deeper counters that allow for small appliances to sit at the back - or wall storage down to the counter.

After the turn, on the long wall place the trash, sink, DW and range. Not sure about a penninsula at the end. Facing that wall, the new doorway and the narrowed shallow pantry units.

A deep counter run in a small kitchen with a tight budget can work miracles. Expense is negligible - just install standard base cabinetry six inches forward. The full depth fridge savings can offset the cost of moving the doorway. With the fridge and deep counter run to the left as you enter, the doorway will "feel" like it is in the right place.

This would give you several nice work areas: 1)right of the fridge on the deep counter in reach of the nearby sink (wet prep, coffee making, mixing); 2)either side of the sink (cleanup) 3) between sink and range (prep and cooking) and 4)between the range and DR (serving).

I'd be happy to work in such a kitchen!

I would suggest the following changes to buehl's plan #2 or #3 which I think would give you a very nice kitchen:

I think her sink/range/fridge lineup is the best you can hope for with the 7’ kitchen width. The sink under the window should be a cheerful location with the natural light, and the extra counter top over a Super Susan, plus a 12" wide base cabinet (or book shelf for cookbooks?) next to that or an angled cabinet if it would fit better, would give you additional space along with approximately 4’ of upper cabinets. You'd have a nice prep space between the sink and range. Having the fridge near the DR and also one of the LR entrances would keep others out of your way when you’re prepping and cooking. I’d have the right side of the fridge end opposite the end of the post, and get rid of the peninsula that just gets in the way.

I’d change most of the 18" deep cabinets to 9 or 12" upper cabinets (12" next to the MW) and 18" base cabinets, put a bar sink near the end closest to the DR, and the MW next to that. The dishes would go next to the MW opposite the DW, which I would put to the right of the full sink, since there's not really a better place for it. Think about how much of the 18" deep cabinets you’d like to have as counter top—you should have a total of 8-9’ possible on that wall (including the MW and bar sink areas). If you keep a large stretch of it as counter top opposite the range, that, along with the MW and bar sink should give a feeling of openness as well as a place to put prepped food, things out of the oven, MW, or fridge. If you want a large MW, put it between the fridge and range.

I know how my 8' wide kitchen felt; I'd want to keep a narrower one as open feeling as possible.

Anne

Anne

Put the fridge to the right of the sink (over to the 17' you said is the size of the kitchen), move the DW next to the sink (and figure out what size cabinets now will fit between the fridge/sink and DW/range), keep the range about where it is, put a blind base cabinet under the left window and into the corner (and figure out what cabinet now fits between the range and the blind corner cabinet). Then put a 24" wide base cabinet (or whatever you can fit) on the short wall for a prep/bar sink so it butts up to the side of the blind corner cabinet. Put the MW to the left in the 4' bank of upper cabinets on the short wall. Your prep will probably be done mostly between the other sink and the range, but a second sink by the MW gets another person out of your working area.

On the wall opposite the range, sink, and fridge, you now can have as much clear counter space as you wish. Since you're used to having regular cabinets here, think about how much you really want to make the 7' wide space feel narrower if you chose tall cabinets instead of uppers and base cabs. Decide if 9 or 12" uppers work best for your storage needs, and if 15 or 18" deep base cabinets work better. I'm only familiar with Kraftmaid cabinets, and they have an upcharge to get the 9, 15, and 18 deep. They don't list them in their catalog (which I now understand is only online), but you can get them. You wouldn't be getting that many of these sizes, so hopefully it would still fit your budget. Or maybe another manufacturer offers these sizes as standard (but usually it's the more expensive manufacturers). I don't know if you can get an 18" deep with drawers. Counter tops for 15" deep are ok, but you might want the extra depth of the 18" deep counter top (especially since you're used to having 24" deep cabs there), although storage would be easier on 15" deep shelves, and that would probably mean 9" deep uppers--which are also a nice size for canned goods, etc. And the 15" deep base cabs would allow a little more space for people to pass each other in the kitchen, especially when the DW is open.

This isn't all that much different than what you have, but I think it solves a couple of problems and maybe makes a nicer kitchen.

Anne

So, this outside wall with the cement foundation? I don't know if it would work either practically, or by building code, but it sounds like the outside of your kitchen is on level ground. If so, I was thinking that with that sink in the corner, you could make it a true blind corner, and put an access hatch to the plumbing on the outside. I've seen that for the motors of jetted tubs, so it might be possible. You would actually gain usable storage that way, and wouldn't lose hardly any from having the sink there. I like that it also allows for prepping in the window area. That will be very pleasant.

-the otr microwave - I like them but in this layout with the exposed side and the close proximity to the window I think you would be better off with a hood and chimney set up - if you could move the microwave to the other side you keep it in your cooking zone for convenience

-corner cabinet by window - I think you are crowding the window -you might be better to do a standard depth units all along this wall - if you go with a hood and chimney on the other side this should really open up the space around the windows and highlight them.

-over the sink - in the rendering the raised cabinets are not centered on the sink - you will get different opinions on this but looking at a wall and looking at a cupboard door are not so different - to recoup a bit of the lost cupboard space from the above changes I would do standard height cabs between the stove and fridge (over the sink and dishwasher)

Might not be what suits you but I thought I would throw it out there. Good luck.

Since you're in Canada, I don't think plllog's idea of opening up the outside wall would be advisable due to possible freezing of pipes--even with good insulation. Depends on how cold it gets where you are and how thoroughly you would be able to seal off the area from the outside. BTW, how will you get water to the prep sink? If the powder room/left kitchen wall are the common walls between you and the adjacent unit (meaning they should be warmer than an outside wall), possibly you could run the water from the powder room via the ceiling, but the pipes or ducts or soffits used still would have to be VERY well insulated.

I agree with caryscott's comment to make the upper cabs on the short wall a straight run and get rid of the corner upper. On the short wall, you can do a 48" wide base blind corner cab and get a wider drawer plus the additional storage. You could put the prep sink in the left side of this cab, or as far as possible to the left in the cab under the windows. Seems like it would be more comfortable to use if you could stand right in front of it, instead of standing in the corner where you'd have to reach farther.

In addition to cs's good comment about the aesthetics, since the MW is hinged on the left, anyone using it would be in front of the range or to the right of it in prime work space. When we remodeled our galley kitchen, DH insisted that we put in an OTR MW. It drove me nuts having him use it when I was cooking, and the sink wasn't even on that side of the kitchen. I'd either put it on the counter or hanging from the upper cab at the short end of your kitchen. Or you could put it opposite the fridge and cleanup sink if you don't put in the prep sink, if you use it to warm up leftovers which in our house also involves cleanup from drips. ;>)

Since you won't be able to center the sink on the upper cabs, I agree with cs that they'd look better all the same height. I'd make them end where the bottom of the range hood or MW does--about 24" above the counter. I have that height over my mail sorting area and also over a small dish storage cab, and it works well with where my eyes rest (I'm 5'4").

I think if you line up the right edge of the cabinet that's to the right of the fridge with the right edge of the post opposite it, both the kitchen and DR will look better, and you'll also get more counter space to the right of the main sink. Unless I'm counting your squares incorrectly, that hasn't been done.

I'd want at least 36" of space to walk through between the corner of the base cabinet on the short wall and the corner of the tall cabinet on the back side of the LR wall AFTER the countertops are on. Also, be sure the corners are rounded off to some extent. What are the widths of the various cabinets on the wall opposite the appliances?

Anne

Caryscott, thank you for your suggestions. I am still researching the OTR MW so I have not made a final decision on that, and now I have some good ideas from you !
corner cabinet by window- I am not sure about that one either because I am much more of a right angle person but I left it in because my design software had it and I was getting tired at that point! And if I move the prep sink I was thinking that maybe a cabinet in the corner that would sit on the counter below the regular wall cupboard to hide the food processor etc. (appliance garage type?)
Also tired at that point to miss the sink area wall cabinets – I will make them all the same distance from the floor, some compromise ht because I am 5’1"

Anne
I am not sure about the water to the prep sink yet but just recently we had a major blockage in the upstairs tub and the ceiling (in the sink prep area) had to be opened to access the pipes (long ugly story!)…. However there might be an easy way to tie in the prep sink to the water- a silver lining to a large plumbing bill.
I will probably have the prep sink offset but not directly in the corner, again design software limitations (or design software user limitations)
I do not want to line up the cabinet with the column in the DR because we need as much space as we can have for the DR. We would like to eliminate the everyone up because the last chair needs the powder room. I am ok if the functionality is better and the view is a little uneven! (thanks for being so observant)
I will try to have 36 inches of space for the walkway. ( good tip about including the counter overhang)
My thinner pantry cabinets will be 15 inches. That seemed like a good depth for multi- purpose storage while giving some needed floor space. I am ending the run with a 15" wide, 8" depth bookshelf (cookbooks), and door cabinet( for vases etc…) That one will be the first full cabinet to the right of the hallway door and it will face opposite the DR.
I will modify the plan a little to have the thinner cabinets starting in front of the DW because it has a longer door so can use the space.
All in all, almost done, step one that is
Thank very much!
Suzette

at 5'1" I doubt you'd be able to access an OTR. I know at 5' I couldn't. but w/o a prep sink you'd have more counter space for a MW.

Thank you
Suzette

What I don't like about the new plan is the stove hugged right up to the cabinetry. If you can add a few more inches for clearance for the oven, and make the cupboard down to the counter a normal upper instead, that would help the elbow room a lot, but still doesn't help your water access.

Having that nice, open L on the left of the stove in the previous plan could be very useful! Even more so if there's no sink. It's a great place to use small appliances like mixer, food processor or crock pot, to roll pastry or shape bread, to set out baking sheets for dropping cookies or appetizers, for cooling, for chopping and blending, for plating, or whatever, all out of the mess of the working part of the kitchen. It also gives you the secondary prep area you wanted. Add a couple of mixing bowls, one for water and one for peelings and scraps, and it's a very nice place to work, even without a sink. And then you still have good filling/draining access for your pots.

You said before that you don't want to extend the cabinets on the sink wall out to line up with the post due to dining room seating. However, if you extend the table, the post will stop it at some point. The person sitting at the end of the table will have his/her chair between the post and the cabinets anyway (at least that's what happens at my daughter's house which has a similar setup), so another 9" or so of cabinets to line up with the post won't make any difference for that chair's location, but would give you some needed counter space to the left of the fridge if you have it to the right of the sink.

Just some thoughts.

Anne

Your LR is larger than it looked on the earlier layout, and the bump out doesn't look like it will affect the furniture layout significantly. Be sure you check the specs of the fridge; there will be a little space behind it, and you need to be sure you bump out the wall far enough. If you do a wall behind the fridge, you could let the drywall show in the LR, and put bookshelves or a shallow cabinet approximately 3' wide to the left of the bump out on the LR side more or less centered on that entire wall including the bump out.

I just looked back at your existing kitchen plan. Your new one will be much improved, with the left side opened up with light coming in from the 2 small windows and the extra counter space at that end, plus whatever you work out on the storage wall. You really have had some difficult limitations to get around!

Anne