Embedding an image of the wooden hood.
{{!gwi}}From Karen's Kitchen Project

Wow, I am doing a custom hood and this is a good warning.

Is it normal for hoods to stick out 24" from the wall - same depth as the counter? Or do you just have that big of a hood insert to need the wood part that big? (cause I am looking in the 400-600 CFM range, and they aren't anywhere near 24" deep to require that size hood).

Can they cut the backside down and move it back a little? I would think recessing it by even just 3" would keep it out of the way of head banging. I wouldn't think the problem is that it's too low, but rather too deep!(?)

Our current over the range microwave is right in front of our faces at about 16" deep and it doesn't come anywhere near head banging.

Hi, needsometips, you might not run into the same situation.

Well, I'm not sure if it is normal or not. It was the required configuration of Schuler hood and Vent-a-Hood magic lung 900 CFM blower system. Initially, the KD put in an 18 inch deep hood, however, that wasn't allowed by the software because the liner depth for the 900 CFM equivalent Vent-a-Hood liner was 22 inches deep, so it had to go into a 24 inch deep cabinet. I guess the higher total BTUs on the range top the deeper and more capture one needs for the range. I suppose a tapered hood would have been better in my situation. The best by broan was a recommended one, but I didn't want stainless steel or a chimney type of hood. I always imagined some kind of housing for the liner and I settled on the Schuler hood.

No, unfortunately there is no room to cut the backside and to recess it. The liner fits like a glove in the hood right now and behind the liner is my living room wall. Schuler does have another boxy hood, that might have been better, but it wasn't as aesthetically pleasing. Thus, I think this is a design mistake.

My dear husband joked that we should put tennis balls on the sharp corner edges! Kinda funny, but not too funny if you know what I mean.

Maybe the KD or someone else might think of something clever.

Karen mentioned that the liner is 22 inches deep so the surround can't be cut back. My hood is 24 inches deep also.

I'm surprised that your Vent-a-Hood doesn't include a light. Do they offer an accessory light that you can add on? My hood has a very bright halogen light on a dimmer. You need to be able to see when you cook!

That doesn't solve your head-banging problem, but maybe someone will have a good suggestion.

Erika

Doesn't your liner have lights? In my 42" wide wall mount hood (no, not a liner insert), I have three halogen lights (50 watts dimmable to 25 watts).

I'm sorry, the following won't help you but it might help others...

We got the "emerald lip" version of our Vent-A-Hood (SS wall mount, not liner insert) for just the reasons you've stated...head bumping. [The "emerald lip" has the softer corners.] My hood is also 24" deep. But, neither my DH (6'5") nor I (5'10") have bumped our heads and it doesn't block the back of the cooktop.

I'm really not sure what to tell you about yours...is it possible for a carpenter to round the bottoms of the corners somewhat so at least if your husband hits his head it won't hurt (at least not much...and no blood!)

Is there any way to install lights either under the wood hood (probably not since you said your liner "fits like a glove") or at least put lights on the side and angle them so they're aimed at the range?

Someone must have had this problem in the past...anyone???

Ah! The fundamental problem with kitchen ventilation rears its Hydra head. To avoid head bumping, the hood has to be high enough to clear, or shallow enough to not be in the way. Shallow won't capture front burner effluent well, and high means that the hood has to grow in area to capture the expanding effluent plumes from the pots and pans. Larger area requires a larger exhaust fan. Ducting issues in the context of the house design also play a large role in choosing an acceptable approach.

One can only trade off these factors along with their costs to find a solution that is tolerable for the individual purchaser. The OP may have to step back and start over (with attendant costs) if all the reported problems are to solved.

kas

I just wanted to say how sorry I am this has happened. You have a beautiful design. I am really hoping that Lowe's and Schuler will help you on this. I think the Modern-Aire hoods are gorgeous but I hate for you to spend extra $$$. Crossing my fingers for a good resolution.

Short of replacing the entire hood, your only real option is to raise the height. I wonder if it's at all possible to just trim the bottom of the hood a little without having to do anything to the cabinet and molding above. Can't tell from the picture if this would be possible with the liner that you have. In any case you should get some kind of lights over the range.

erickanh & buehl: we do have two Halogen lights inside the Vent-a-Hood and I can live with the cave-like feature. I just wasn't expecting it to be so dark--silly me! Well, in any case, it is good to know that there is a Vent-a-Hood alternative wall mounted hood. I absolutely love the Vent-a-Hood. I never thought I would say that about it after all the negative reports on the appliance forum. We did somewhat realize that the hood would be jutting out in the design phase, but there weren't any on display, so we didn't know about the sharp corners.

Kaeski: I wish I had thought a little harder about the ventilation. I did follow both Vent-a-Hood and La Cornue Fe specifications. But, yes, I see what you mean by the "hydra head."

odiegirl: Thank you for your kind thoughts. We are not going to let Lowes entirely off the hook because it's not right even though we could learn to live with it.

weissman: I think the cabinet installer could cut the hood, but, then it wouldn't have the wonderful factory finish any more, so it kind of defeats the purpose.

Well, this thread may prompt others to consider their pro-range ventilation requirements a little more carefully :-(.

Thanks, guys, for responding. Let's see what Lowes says.

It's not buyer's remorse. I had no idea that the corners on the hood were going to be that sharp. There were no displays with these hoods to try out in the store. There was no way for me to know this in advance and the problem *only* became apparent after it WAS installed, and I'm NOT putting anything on the craig's list than you very much.

Do you have the right wattage in your bulbs? I have 2 halogens in the same VAH hood and they are the brightest light in my house. They should be the 50 watt halogens which though expensve, last awhile. Be careful about buying them in the big box stores as most of them seem to be open and broken. I think a lot of unscrupulous people return their burned out bulbs in the original box and they put them back on the shelf.

I know how it is with the head bumping. I have a limestone hood with these huge corbels sticking out. I brained myself at least 6 times the first few months I was using my new space. You will get used to it though.

Your kitchen looks great!

While we were designing, I was worried about this exact same thing. I wanted to make sure that when we were standing at the stove, the fireplace mantel hood would not obstruct us in any way. Ours will stick out at the max 19"from the wall. We literally would stand at a display and measure it out height wise (from the top of the stove and from the wall). DH is tall and we want to make sure that we're not going to crack our heads on it. We'll see how it looks when it's actually installed. Lowes should have known better. 24" out seems pretty deep to me.

>>>I think the cabinet installer could cut the hood, but, then it wouldn't have the wonderful factory finish any more, so it kind of defeats the purpose.

Well, you would lose the factory finish on the bottom edge of the hood but that might be a compromise you have to make to avoid the head banging. There's no perfect solution here - good luck.

>>>Lowes should have known better. 24" out seems pretty deep to me.

24" is pretty standard if you want coverage of the front burners. Some people go with 27". My hood is only 19" deep and in hindsight I wish I had a deeper one - the front of my hood (stainless steel) does get greasy.

It sort of seems to me that if Lowes KD was involved in this design, that they should have at least warned you about what to expect. It's their job to know these things....that's why THEY are the designers. I really feel like they should be at least partially responsible (financially) for the fix

95% of all ventilation hoods out there will have 90° "sharp" front corners. So does your DW and fridge. Lowe's is supposed to inform you of everyday common sense facts? Even the barrel hood from Modern Aire has 90° corners at the front edge just exactly like the hood you think is a mistake. So, you purchased a hood with edges just exactly like 95% of the market has. Switching to a metal hood would give you the same exact sharp corners that you already have.

It's installed at the height and depth that the manufacturer requires, so there is no mistake there. All hoods will be required to be installed at at least 30" above the cooktop, so again, you're not going to be able to change that aspect of the design with a new hood either.

You obviously approved the design renderings to go forward with the order, so you liked how it looked at the design phase.

So, basically, the market standard properly installed hood was everything you specifically wanted and ordered, but somehow someone else is to blame that you don't like it. I believe that IS the definition of "buyer's remorse".

I DO understand buyer's remorse. You spend a lot of money on something that turns out to not be how you "thought" it would be. Sometimes it's because you didn't do enough research. Sometime's it's because of your changing aesthetics or expectations. But we all have bought something that we later wish we didn't. It's why many of us have unused or barely used items sitting in our garages. But most of us don't try to blame it on anyone else but ourselves.

What a coincidence. I was losing sleep over this last night. My cabs are all in now, and I KNOW the hood is too massive. It meets the 30" minimum from the top of the range. But that is a *minimum*!! I can't imagine why you'd have the hood that low, sharp edges or not. My wood hood cost thousands and the vent system cost $2000. I totally blame the KD. Why would you use the minimum clearance instead of a more appropriate height? I have looked at tons of pictures of hoods and have yet to see one that low.

Since it meets code, I know they won't do anything about it. Luckily, we are short so probably won't hit our heads, but it will limit my BS options and look ridiculous. (Solid walnut over a black AGA in case you're curious).

I don't think you want a big black barrel hood...it might not be a cave but it'll still hurt the head. And a flared one as well.

Now, on Weisman's idea, how far inside that hood is the actual liner? Would it have to be moved to trim off a few inches of the wood front? Or could the lower arch bit be removed altogether and replaced with carefully-applied tall crown, straight across and with mitered ends? Yeah, goofy, but fire-placey.

Do try to get better lightbulbs...

I think maybe just MAYBE your guys need to live with it a little longer. Go ahead with the tennis balls. Y'all might get used to it. But I'm serious about the balls! (If you don't use the tennis balls, your husband might wear off the sharp corners with his head, which is another option.)

>>>It meets the 30" minimum from the top of the range. But that is a *minimum*!! I can't imagine why you'd have the hood that low, sharp edges or not.

30" may be the minimum but it's also generally the recommended height from a venting point of view. As you raise the hood higher you lose some of its effectiveness. Now some of us do mount the hood higher (mine is at 36" but in hind sight I should have mounted it lower) but you can't fault the designer/installer for mounting it at the recommended height if you didn't specify otherwise.

I think we need a photo looking up into the hood/casing assembly. Possibly (at some non-trivial cost) the lower arch could have its corners cut off, or the entire assembly changed to a curve in the horizontal plane. (You'd have a hard edge, but not a hard corner.) Obviously, one would want to retain the sense of period that the cabinets and range project.

kas

live_wire_oak: I spent over $2,500 on the hood and liner. It's not chump change and by picking the 600 dual blower (equivalent to 900 CFMs) the liner and hood were designed to go together by the manufacturer. We are all enjoying this kitchen, even dear hubby, bless his heart and dear son. If we have to live with it, we will all get used to it and maybe someday I'd replace it, but not any time soon. The whole point of this remodel for me is that I want to live with this kitchen for at least 25 years before changing it. I resent your implication that I'm trying to get something financially out of it and that I should have known better. Many times you have good points to contribute, but you're off base here, rather harsh, and frankly quite annoying. I'm not going to let you put words into my mouth. The dishwasher is not in my face or obtrusive. The refrigerator does not have *sharp* corners, it is not in my way, either--those arguments don't hold up at all. I'm not going to listen to your input on this matter any more PERIOD. You don't have anything thoughtful to add here. I'm not blaming the KD, obviously, she doesn't have a lot of experience with these hoods. We both considered an 18-inch depth option, but it wasn't available for the 900 CFM requirement. It was the first time that the Lowes' cabinet installer had to install the Vent-a-Hood liner, so he wasn't experienced with it, either.

fiori: I considered the black Modern Aire barrel with stainless straps. The starting price on it was $3,500.

weissman: You are right I can't move the liner up any more in the housing hood because of the Vent-a-Hood specification. I actually have it up a higher than the spec says. The Vent-a-Hood spec says to install the liner from 27 to 30 inches. The La Cornue says the ventilation has to be a minimum of 30 inches from the top of the range. If it's up too high it won't do its job of capturing the smoke, grease, etc.

Kaseki - I'll take some pictures; it's kind of hard to capture this, though.

I understand that there are no perfect solutions. The whole front panel snaps off, so, I could always just remove the whole thing, too.

I just looked and my Modern Aire hood does have sharp corners too. It's mounted at 30 inches above the cooktop and is 24 inches deep. I don't think it looks ridiculous, nor does it seem cave-like. The 3 halogen lights are extremely bright. I'm too short to bump my head on it and DH is too tall (6'2"). If we had tried to mount it high enough for DH's head to clear, we would have had to raise it to 39 inches and that's too high. I notice he stands back further from the cooktop than I do, probably because otherwise the hood would be right in front of his face. He uses the front burners and hasn't complained about it being uncomfortable.

It seems like your poor DH is at just the right height to smack his head. The fact that the arch comes down lower on the sides just makes it worse. I agree with Fori to cushion those corners for a few weeks or so until DH gets used to it.

I know it's got to be super frustrating. These renovations take so much time, energy and money and it's such a let-down when something doesn't turn out as planned. On the bright side, your kitchen is beautiful ... I'm still drooling over your appliances!

Erika

Perhaps I am oversimplifying this, but the solution seems pretty simple: Find out what door sizes are available in your cabinet line (they usually come in 3" increments, right?), then raise the hood to where it would be comfortable to use. Have Lowes pick up the extra door (or drawer) and use that instead of the "cover" it came with (that shouldn't cost too much). You will only lose the two door effect on the front of the vent pipe (replaced by the single door).

erikanh: thanks for letting me know about the sharp corners on the Modern Aire. I haven't seen one in real life only in pictures.

rubyfig: the doors on the top are actually fake doors. The arch mantle is all one piece, which meets the box part that juts out to 24 inches. I don't know what all the Schuler options are, I'm going to wait for my Lowes KD to help out. There most likely is a solution. I think it would be awesome if we cut clear about 4 more inches. The KD is on vacation for a week. DS just told me he bumped his head again last night :-(.

I can't see the forest through the trees right now.

Aww, poor DH.

Karena, I understand completely (I had so many cabinets that had to be "fixed" it isn't funny). Know that a good cabinetmaker can cut down quite a bit.

Ok, what am I seeing just above the "arch panel" section--is that a ledge or a piece of molding? How deep is that? Does it go all the way around? When you said "the front panel snaps off", can you see how thick it is? Does the design wrap around, or are the sides plain?

And while you are looking/measuring things, how high is that panel section above the arch (the part between the woodwork detail that looks like 2 doors)?

And (I am assuming it is a wide crown molding that is going on top) how thick is that molding (is it stacked, or a single piece)? Do you, by chance have an image of that?

I'm attaching a picture looking into the hood, thanks kaseki. Here it is:
{{!gwi}}From Karen's Kitchen Project

Here's a picture of the owie zowie sharp corner: {{!gwi}}From Karen's Kitchen Project

It looks to me like there is a maximum of 5 inches that could be cut off of the cabinet housing. I'm not sure if this would expose the metal liner, though.

The ledge above the arch is a plate rail. Above the rail there are two door-like panels. As you can see from the picture the sides are plain, so no molding wraps around.

The cabinets are 36 inches high and were hung 3 inches below the ceiling. The crown is stacked and it is 6 inches with a separate rope insert. The depth of the front piece is 11/16th.

I'll have to find the tape measure and get out a step stool for the other measurement. I'll take a picture of the crown molding later. This should help you guys to get the picture.

Are you thinking cutting off the cabinet housing in order raise the overall height of the hood or is your goal to cut the sides down in order to reduce the depth so that it lays closer to the wall? Reducing the depth, I can see trying.

If you cut the cabinet housing, in order to raise the overall hood height, you're also going to have to cut into the curved valance and you're going to lose the effect of that gorgeous curved valance and it's raised panels, correct?

Still loving your curved niche. It's EXACTLY what I'm asking our carpenter to do for us. Your arch is the same curvature of your arched valance on your hood. You may lose that symetry if you cut away part of that cabinet housing. (Unless I've completely misunderstood how this is going to be done.)

Ugh, I don't know what I mean. Actually, come to think of it, we ordered the maximum cut/modification on this housing/hood to meet the 30 inch stove top to ventilation component requirement. You're right the symmetry would be gone if I were to cut the bottom portion. I worked so hard to get the niche from my contractor and I love it, too! He was able to get the arch centered along the wall to 1/8 inch without having the cabinets installed as that task had to be done by the Lowes cabinet installer. At one point, his assistant wanted an exact measurement from me as to how high the arch was going to be to avoid having the two arches on top of each other and I couldn't give it to him and I almost gave up. When I showed the general a picture of what I wanted, he immediately measured the cabinet and figured out the proportions.

I was thinking that the door-like panel above the plate rail could be removed to shorten up the valance. I think rubyfig was trying to go there.

Boy that is a killer corner. Seems like the KD at Lowes's should have said something. Makes me glad I decided on no vent or hood over my cooktop but I have a very open kitchen with big windows.
I did get a brainstorm and put our microwave in the upper pantry. Had an outlet installed and the second day it was there, DH slit his head on the cabinet door (about 4 inches long). Good thing I'm an RN....no stitches were needed and it healed up great but now the microwave sits on my kitchen desk. :-(

Ouch msgreatdeals! Yes, your family is lucky indeed to have a RN around to deal with such things. I'm glad your husband didn't require stitches!

This is really in Lowes' hands now. I have to wait for the KD to come back from vacation this Saturday. As I see it now, I have three options:

*Do nothing and live with it.
*Find out if Lowes can get me a new hood with a straight line that would allow 5 more inches of clearance to avoid eye poking and head banging.
*Find out if Lowes can create a custom hood.

Ditching the arch and doing a straight line would solve the problem, but ruin the symmetry. Cutting the existing hood housing and shortening the snap-on front panel by five inches would expose the liner, which is not acceptable.

I think the Lowes KD and installer just don't have a lot of experience with these hoods. This is the first hood and liner installation for the the Lowes installer. I know that the KD would have told me about the sharp corners if, she, herself knew the problem. She fully disclosed everything else to me during the entire design process.

Excuse me if I retire from this post for a while, I think I'm preparing in my own mind for some of the options. In the mean time, it appears that the peninsula cabinet is not lined up properly and the farmhouse sink must be raised 5/8 of an inch (after it's already been cut) before the granite can be installed, so I need to get those items resolved.

I just have to work through these issues and I'm looking forward to getting this all behind me.

Karena,

You have a few more options as I see it.

Option #1 is the easiest:
Leave the liner and venting intact, remove the wood housing sides and front.
Cut 1" off each of the sides and run those pieces to the ceiling.
Cut the front panel at the section where the arch meets the plate rail and replace that arch section with a door/drawer front in a straight line.

With this option, you loose the arch on the bottom, but I think it is the best way to go (visually, the lines make the stove stand out more, and it makes the nitche special). (I also tried to mock up putting the cut arch section on top, but it looks really weird with the nitche arch below it).

Option #2

Keep the bottom arch, and raise the vent 4" (by cutting the vent tube), and work with what the TOP to shorten the height. You said that 4 inches is ideal.

So, the side panels are plain (and that is VERY good), cutting an inch off the top of the whole wood unit and then taking that all the way up to the ceiling will give you the extra 4 inches on the sides. Sides done.

Now the front. Have them remove the front panel and cut it where the plate rail is, you can then replace the top section with 1) a shorter door front, or 2) a plain panel. Have them angle the 6" moulding slightly more around the vent to make up the 1" difference there.

This would still leave the arch intact, but it is the most work to get everything to line up correctly and no matter what, the "border" around the inset will be greater on top.

Option #3:

Raise the internal unit as #2. Run the whole vent wood housing section(s) up to the ceiling. Either skip the crown on this or run the crown on the ceiling instead of the cabinet to compensate.

This would gain 3" (at most), and you have the same problem with with the nitche border as with #2.

I hope that helps.

Re: the sink. Maybe adding a drip rail would work.

Good luck, we are rooting for you!

Here is a link that might be useful: farm sink

Thank you rubfig! Yes, it does help. Actually, I even thought of another option after pressing the submit button:

Remove the wooden hood and liner and put in another wall mounted ventilation hood. We'll see...

By any chance can you send me your mock-up?

I'll post it here for you. I am obviously not a photoshop whiz, but hopefully these will help:

{{!gwi}}


{{!gwi}}


{{!gwi}}

karena, please let us know what you end up doing. I'm having almost the exact same hood design (already on order) from Lowes (Diamond) and you've got me concerned for both you and myself! Best wishes.

Thanks rubyfig! I don't have PhotoShop, so I appreciate your efforts. Sure thing, sleevepresto. I'll be checking on your progress, too. Take care.

This is still a little high - but roughly what rubyfig was talking about as a straight across mantel hood.
{{!gwi}}

One more option - get a shorter husband :-)

Hee...hee...good one weissman. It's good to have a sense of humor about these things. I do love my boys though; all three of them and wouldn't change them for the world ;-).

Couldnt you just customize a piece of trim that sat slightly proud of the bottom edge that turned the 90-degree corner and had a radius on it so it wasnt so sharp? You might still hit it but if it was rounded you wouldnt cut yourself.

These are radiuses for granite countertops but what about a band of wood on the bottom of the existing hood, with radiused corners? With the radius on the horizontal, obviously.

As for the capture specs for how high hoods must be over ranges the manufacturers of the hoods and the manufacturers of the ranges often seem to be in direct conflict with each other. Some of the range manufacturers want a hood that will suck a tennis ball through a straw.

Karena, I'm so sorry you're having this problem. I am in about the same stage in my kitchen, and I know how frustrating these types of issues can be. Your kitchen is going to be gorgeous! For what it's worth, I decided to raise up our wood hood to 36" for precisely this reason. My DH is 6' tall, and he likes to cook. I was willing to sacrifice a little of the ventilation effectiveness to avoid bruised heads. The 30" requirement is recommended, but there aren't going to be any ventilation police coming by to make sure that you follow it.

Another tactic I did was to pull my cooktop cabinet out a couple of inches. Is pulling your range out an inch or two an option for you?

I photoshopped yet another version for you -- just shrinking the top panel a bit. Maybe something like this may work?

Camille

{{!gwi}}

Weissman: 30" is not a "recommended" height; it's minimum code height as I said. The KD is responsible because it's their JOB to think of these things and have the breadth of experience. Any electrician could have told me the minimum code requirement; a KD is supposed to be expert in aesthetic and practical usage issues. My venting system is more than adequate to handle my AGA from more than 30" inches. Those systems are over-engineered anyway.

That said, I don't see OP's issue as being about sharp corners, because as people pointed out, most hoods have them. It's about the darn thing being TOO low. And with that, I sympathize.

andreanewengland - if you read my post, I said that 30" is recommended by most hood manufacturer's from a VENTING point of view - if you have a wood hood then you are probably correct that 30" is the minimum required distance to a flammable surface and yes you can go higher but you lose VENTING effectiveness. You have to make a tradeoff if you go higher but MANY people mount their hoods at 30".

I just thought of on more option. I'm 5'4.8" and DH is 6'1". Our hood is 30" from the cooktop, but it is only 20" deep (no head banging at all)...is it maybe possible to bring your stove forward a few inches (and still have access to those cabinets?) They could run a strip of your granite behind if that is a possibility.

bmorepanic: in my mind's eye the straight across mantel hood is a good option. Thank you for the PhotoShop mockup!

As palimpset mentioned the darn manufacturer's conflict each other horribly! So Vent-a-Hood says to mount the liner between 27 to 30 inches. The diagram clearly indicates with a big asterisk the following:

"* Exceeding recommended mounting height may compromise performance."

La Cornue Fe Albertine dimensions and clearances section states on pg. 24:

"Provide adequate clearances between the range and adjacent combustible surfaces."

It actually recommended a minimum of 42 1/2 between the cabinets, but the hood that is designed by La Cornue Fe to go over the Albertine is only 36 inches. So, I've already broken both manufacturers recommendations. I may have to go to purgatory or something :-(. After testing the range out with the current height of the liner, it does still seem to be capturing the front left burner. By the way, the liner insert is model BH234PSLD for those inquiring minds.

cncnh: thanks for your Photoshop version, too! The problem is that if the arch goes up too high, then the liner shows. In this case, I'd rather have the straight across mantle that would hide the liner. As long as your ventilation system is strong enough for the AGA, then I would say 36 inches is a much better height and will give you more enjoyment while cooking.

palimpset: yes, that is an option, too. I sort of thought of that, too, I'm not sure why the cabinet installer didn't offer it up as a solution. Perhaps because it would have to be ordered from the factory. Again, I'm not sure of all the items in the Schuler catalog.

rubyfig: I'm actually 5'4". the lowest point of the hood is 27 1/4". Sometimes I feel as if I could get my eyes gouged out at that level, if I'm not careful.

andreanewengland: yes, the darn arched mantle is too low.

At this point, my family would be happy at 34 inches clearance! I do hope this post helps someone else to avoid this issue...

I would imagine that you could get trim made or fabricated from a stock item they make and have it painted to match and it would be cheaper than reconfiguring it (or going to the emergency room)

Yikes 27 1/4" is low.

Camille's mock-up is still an option. You would have to raise the internal vent to keep the arch (it would be a cut in the vent, really not a big deal). I know that the specs say that would compromise the function, but I doubt by much. The section on top could be replaced with a door or drawer front (attached on the back side and covered by the plate rail), a valance, or a section of plain filler attached in the same way.