I was taught in geology that quartz was 7 on the scale, followed by topaz, corundum, and diamond.
Casey

You're talking about man-made quartz countertops, not quartz the mineral. The countertop material is made with resin (plastic) and quartz chips and/or ground quartz. But in general, you can scratch it if you cut directly on it or use abrasives to clean it.

The resins are actually quite hard and scratch-resistant in most Breton manufactured quartz (Cambria, Caesarstone, Silestone, etc.). Breton is the original technology. What you're looking at is Chinese made, most likely with a knock-off of Breton technology. You'll need to ask the person who is selling it if they use Breton technology, and if they don't, who knows what you're getting. No track record for the Chinese knock-offs, and rumors that they take shortcuts, like not curing the resins as long as those that use Breton technology, so they're not as hard.

Get a sample from one of the above-mentioned manufacturers, who have been manufacturing quartz since the mid-90s, and see if you can scratch it as easily as the Chinese product.

I have an extra piece of my Ceasarstone countertop, so I just tried - hard - to scratch it with a sharp knife, and it didn't scratch at all.

I have had Cambria quartz in my kitchen fof eight years. Yes, I generally use a cutting board, but there have been plenty of things cut directly on the countertop without a single scratch.

dukehoops02:

Quartz is difficult to scratch, but it is much more difficult to remove scratches as compared to natural stone. Getting the scratch out is easy, it's matching the factory finish after you do that's the hard part.

If you want a near scratch proof surface, look at the new sintered tops like Neolith and Dekton.

Yet my Caesarstone was scratched with Barkeeper's Friend on install and I ended up with new countertops. I don't cut on it and haven't had any scratches.

Scratches can't be buffed out of the resins in quartz, even by a professional. They tried that on my Caesarstone before they replaced the counters.

This post was edited by may_flowers on Tue, Aug 26, 14 at 9:29

Some colors scratch easier than others even within the same brand. There are also products out there that are sold as engineered quartz that have no quartz in them, they are comprised of resins and marble dust/granules. These products scratch very easy and will etch as well.

We got the Samsung radianz in black diamond (very black) and ended up with a few small scratches probably from various workers after the counters were installed but prior to us moving in. Pretty disappointing. But a black sharpie made them invisible. They were very fine scratches but showed up a lot against the black.

I think they all scratch the same--resin is resin--it just may be more visible on solid colors. I think lighting plays a role too. I only ever see water spots, smears, etc. on my peninsula, which faces a window.

Same as sj here. I have dark mottled Caesarstone and always always use a cutting board. I just dug out my Caesarstone cutting board they gave me that I never use. I took a very sharp serrated knife and cut across the surface with all my strength. It made a horrible sound, but not a mark was left. I rubbed my finger over it and didn't feel a thing.

No scratches on 3 year old Cambria Darlington (lightish cream with flecks). I'm about 50/50 cutting on the "cheese board" vs the actual countertop. I've also scraped off nail polish and spilled super glue with a sharp blade with no ill effects.

"Scratches can't be buffed out of the resins in quartz, even by a professional. They tried that on my Caesarstone before they replaced the counters."

Scratches can be buffed out of quartz, relatively easily. It's matching the surrounding finish that's the trick. It isn't accurate to say it can't be done. It depends on who made the scratch, the fussiness and sophistication level of the customer, the color and particulate or lack thereof, lighting, etc.

This ain't replacing a starter in your Jeep. It's much more artistic and subjective.

Scratches can be buffed out, and then you'll have a large, dull spot in its place. Then you can have your entire countertop buffed so that it all matches the dull spot. Accurate enough for you now, treb? What would you charge to buff an entire island counter?

may_flowers:

I spent three days and $600.00 at Steve Annaker's estone scratch removal training in Knoxvill, TN, last March. Fortunately, I was able to stay in a friend's condo and didn't have to pay for a hotel.

As far as I know, Steve's system is the state-of-the art. He gets called all over to repair quartz tops, so he must be having some success.

The key to this, like all repairs, is cost effectiveness. If I can match the factory and make the customer happy for less than replacement, I get paid. If not, I don't.

So a 10,000 grit diamond buffing pad leaves a dull spot? Then I guess you have to switch to the felt pad and polishing compound that's essentially 30,000 grit for the final polish.
Casey

I think I could live with the scratch after seeing my fabricator spend 2 1/2 hours buffing my 3" scratch into an 18" dull circle using his Caesarstone training. How long would it take using Steve's method?

In my experience you can rework the top surface of quartz but from some viewing angle or lighting the worked area will be obvious. If the customer made the scratch this is typically acceptable. If the fabricator or some other trade scratched the counter then the repair is usually rejected.

In natural stone a skilled fabricator can make a scratch disappear completely except for the distortion in the reflective surface of the stone (assuming polished material) due to the "dip" in the surface where material was removed to eliminate the scratch.

" ... make a scratch disappear completely except for the distortion in the reflective surface of the stone (assuming polished material) due to the "dip" in the surface where material was removed to eliminate the scratch"

What is the advantage in making a scratch disappear "completely" if you are left with another irregularity in its place?

This post was edited by jellytoast on Wed, Aug 27, 14 at 14:22

"So a 10,000 grit diamond buffing pad leaves a dull spot? Then I guess you have to switch to the felt pad and polishing compound that's essentially 30,000 grit for the final polish."

Casey:

Getting shine isn't the problem; it isn't a matter of higher grits. It's polishing the quartz crystals without removing too much of the resin. Creating the "snakeskin" is the trick.

"What is the advantage in making a scratch disappear "completely" if you are left with another irregularity in its place?"

jellytoast;

oldryder answered your question in his first paragraph. If your fabricator has scratched the piece at install he'll make it right with no dip or you'll get a replacement piece. If your drunken brother-in-law scratches your top and you're looking at several thousand dollars in replacement, a little dip is going to look much nicer than a scratch or the invoice from the fabricator.

I just took the scratch out of my $250.00 Oakley sunglasses, but now I've got distortion when I look through them. Fortunately, they'll give me a new pair for my old ones and $125.00.