Not true at all.
Here's a shot of my 36" Bluestar range with island trim and subway tile backsplash.

Keep in mind that, for a range, Bluestar recommends that the tiles continue behind the range to a distance of 6" below the rangetop.
We continued ours to the floor.
Here's an excerpt from Blustar's Rangetop Installation manual.
"BACKGUARD
All range tops require a backguard. Most
models have the option of using: an island
trim; 7 inch standard; 17 inch hi-back; 21 inch
high shelf. Heritage Classic models require a
21 inch high shelf for all installations.
If you are using an island trim a six inch
clearance between the back of the range and a
combustible surface is required. If an island
trim is to be used without this six inch clearance
the back wall must be non-combustible
and heat resistant material that extends below
the top surface of the range a minimum of six
inches."
Or try getting in touch with "beekeeperswife".
She often posts here and has recently installed a Bluestar rangetop.

Persimmon--I don't have a bluestar but my range does have the ss back guard. Mine is 5 3/4" high. I originally wanted a slide in range without the back guard for that unbroken look on the subway. The range I wanted only came with the back guard. I love the range so much that it really doesn't bother me anymore. I also have the white marble subway so I've included a pic so you can see what it looks like. Maybe it will help with your decision.
Good luck :)
http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m285/COHippygirl/Kitchen Makeover/?action=viewät=After.jpg

I also put in a bluestar range with island trim. Willtv has already cited the relevant part of the installation instructions. Faced with this, my inspector did not feel that sheetrock counted as a " non-combustible and heat resistant material," even with tile on it. (And, I was not ready to put in the tile backsplash right away anyway.) Solution? I replaced the sheetrock behind the range with cement board (Hardiebacker). Everyone was happy, including me!

thank you willtv and peony bush. the bluestar salesperson did not give me any manual to look at so i very much appreciate the information you've given me. both kitchens look lovely. i am so excited!

i was considering a cooktop but see that you both have the freestanding range. how do you like the oven's?

Mine is a dual fuel. Had gas oven before with gas cooktop. The electric/convection oven of this stove is quite nice. Even temps. I like it a lot.

slightly ot here but, I found it odd that when ordering the range top, you had to pick which back guard you wanted. the island, the 8" (?) or the 24". They ALL had prices associated with them in addition to the range top.

But the part that got me, was, we picked the 24" with the shelf. The rangetop came with the island trim. When it was installed they removed the island trim replaced it with the 24", and asked if I wanted it. I said yes. But why are they charging for the island trim if it comes with it?

I know you aren't considering the 24" with a shelf based on your question, but I thought I'd post a picture for you anyway. I never knew how much I would love being able to throw things up on that shelf and pop a heat lamp on and keep them warm.

persimmon3, We went with a range as opposed to a rangetop and seperate ovens because of space considerations.
We love the oven.
It maintains an even temperature and is accurate to within 5 or 10 degrees.
It is also cavernous.
The 1800 degree infrared broiler makes for great restaurant quality steaks.
Also, take into consideration what your ventilation needs will be.
I'd forgot that "bee's" kitchen had the tall backsplash.
Really nice kitchen though.
If you'll go to Bluestar's website, you'll find links to the installation manuals for all of their different models and a host of other info.
Here's a link.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bluestar Website

p.ball2, Yes. Bluestar recommends a 6" clearance behind the range to any combustable material.
Keep in mind that, in most cases, applying tile, or any other non-combustable material, behind the range negates the 6" clearance requirement.
This non combustable material need only be applied to drop down 6" below the rangetop.
We had some extra tile so we went all the way to the floor.
The inspector who looked at our setup, tiles mounted to drywall, said it was OK.
angieDIY's inspector preferred that cement board be substituted for the drywall.
Either of these are easy to do.
Just, check with you local inspector first so you'll know which way to go.
As for a range hood, check into Proline hoods.
We installed one about 2 years ago and are pleased with its performance and reasonable price.
Many people here are also pleased with Kobe hoods.
Try posting on the appliances forum and you'll get some great advice on hoods and a host of other matters.

We did not want the extra trim because it was expensive and because we wanted the uniform look. However after the range was installed there was the extra trim, I guess we received it by accident??? I was at first not a fan, but now I don't mind the look and it is very easy to wipe down after cooking something that splatters. So I do find it to be functional.

willtv: thanks for the information. I will check with my builder to see which option will work with our township codes.

We have looked at proline hoods and they seem to have what we need at a reasonable price but we have read some horrible reviews about their customer service and taking forever to fix problems with the order.
Did you have a good experience ordering with them?

maybe I am misunderstanding- Are you saying that even with the island trim backguard that bluestar recommends you must either move the range 6" forward or put non-combustible material behind the stove?
Another new development that I did not know and will have to deal with-

WIlltv has already given you the correct answer, but I am just curious. What had you PLANNED to put behind the range? I think that most surfaces (short of wooden wainscoting) would satisfy most inspectors. My guy was a little pernickety, but the cement board was easy enough to swap in. Glad you like the idea.

p.ball2, I have a Proline range hood. It's not too loud, and it does a great job of moving air. I love the way it looks, too. However... Both lights simultaneously stopped working within the first week of use. I've been calling Proline about this problem weekly since July 19th. And today FINALLY the say they're shipping the parts.

Proline ranges are made in China (yes, I said it), and the company seems to have serious supply chain problems. The people I've spoken with at Proline are always pleasant, but really can't do anything to help.

So, though I like the product (assuming the problem with the lights gets fixed), I don't think I'd order one again.

p.ball2, I've read about recent CS problems at Proline.
I can tell you I had none.
In fact, when I received my hood one of the blower motors wasn't working.
I called Proline and within 3 days had, not just a motor, but a completely new hood.
Perhaps I got lucky.

Angie: sheetrock/drywall alone (painted) would not be acceptable. It would have to be covered with something non-combustable.

Sounds like a dog of a product if it is not zero clearance.

Drywall is NOT considered as flammable.

AngieDIY: I guess I just thought wall board would be fine. We are planning to do our backsplash later once we have recovered financially from this addition/renovation. When I saw that I thought OH NO!, I have to pick out the tile and tile behind the stove! I think that putting cement board or fire board ( my husband said that) will be sufficient until we put in the tile at a later date.

I don't have a Bluestar, but I want to expand on something that Ratrem mentioned. I have tile behind my range, and when the grout is splattered by something like tomato sauce, it is a PITA to clean. I have taken a toothbrush to it, etc. I wish I had done a stainless backguard like what you are discussing. Alternatively I might have done a slab of granite behind the range, with tile backsplash everywhere else. So, my suggestion is to do the stainless steel backguard behind the range, and tile everywhere else. For me, Beekeeperswife's stainless-backguard-with-shelf is what I wish I'd done.

We went with the 8 inch chimney on our 30" Bluestar. I like the look of it with the smaller break of tile between it and the warming shelf above.

You can always add it if you want to later, or take it off if you don't. I negotiated it into my BS purchase for free, along with the easy slide out bottom rack which doesn't come included with the 30" RCS model. So if you can get it for free, get it, and then put it on if you want.

I can't recall what comes on the stove if you don't have the chimney - if it's just a finished opening or if there's a trim piece. I don't recall removing anything when I installed my chimney.

" I have tile behind my range, and when the grout is splattered by something like tomato sauce, it is a PITA to clean."

This is the major problem with any textured surface or a surface that can get stained as a backsplash behind a stove.

It IS going to get stuff splattered from cooking, and then has to be cleaned.

Smooth real granite does not stain, and some other stones are nearly as resistant.

A painted wall will slowly accumulate stains.

The grout lines in tile are a PITA to keep clean, especially all the way at the back of the stove.

I had a customer who installed a section of textured stainless steel pressed to look like old 'tin' ceiling.

She had me tear it out and put in a flat stainless panel in less than 6 months.

wow! thanks shannonplus2 and brickeyee for the info on the grout cleaning! i just assumed it would all clean up without a problem! i'm gonna ask other subway tile owners if they have any cleaning solutions! thanks again.

I wrote: most surfaces (short of wooden wainscoting) would satisfy most inspectors.

I chose my words carefully (emphases on "most"). As you can see by the discrepancy between the responses of brickeyee and weedmeister, both knowledgable folks, there is room for interpretation by the inspector. Anyway, good luck; I am glad the cement board will tide you over until you get the backsplash you want!

I have just ordered a bluestar 24inch slide in cooktop with the island trim. I am getting a new quartz countertop and am going to tile the backsplash. Since this is a slide in it is mounted above an existing cabinet. How do I make sure that the top 6 in of the cabinet are non combustible ? Do I need to make a cut out and tile down, do I screw cement board to the back of the cabinet wall.. I would accept any and all suggestions.

I am also getting a 36" bluestar range. DH wants me to consider the full height backsplash. He thinks it will be easier to clean up. I really like the look of tile behind the range. But I will admit I am not the worlds cleanest person so I am worried about the grout behind the range.

how does the full height backsplash fasten to the wall? We will also get a Bluestar hood. Would it attach to the bottom of the hood? Will I regret going with tile? is the stainless steel easier to wipe down and keep looking nice?

I am also considering the full height ss backsplash and was curious how it attaches (to the wall)? Also, beekeeperswife, does your hood have a warming light to make that shelf a warming shelf? What brand hood is it?

bumping to ask, is this information still good? I like the look of the island trim, but I'm worried about fire safety. If I'm tiling and using hardibacker, I'm good, right?

Mama Rachel, Yeah, you should be good.

Check the installation instructions for your range.

Mine called for tiling 6" below the island trim. Since I had left over tile, I tiled to the floor.

I purchased a Bluestar Platinum range and ordered the 17" backguard. The range has arrived but I am waiting for the backguard. Does the backguard attach to the wall behind the range, or to the back of the range itself? Thanks.

The backguard attaches to the back of the range.

I can't speak to bluestar, but I just put in white subway tile as a backsplash and it covers the area behind my cooktop. I was not expecting it but it does get dirty and it needs to be wiped down regularly. I made cranberry sauce recently and had red dots all over the backsplash.

This is a very interesting conversation as I'm considering a bluestar range and was planning on having a tiled backsplash. I do a lot of wok cooking and things to splatter. My counters will be honed carrara marble. Would a sheet of honed carrara marble used as a backsplash make things easier? I know marble can stain if not sealed. I definitely plan on sealing it. I know etching will be an issue but HOPE that it wouldn't bother me too much. On a countertop I can see how you wouldn't see the etching too much unless you look at it from a certain angle. I can deal with that. But I'm wondering how that would look on a backsplash where the undercounter lighting may reflect the imperfections.

I should mention I'm the type of cook that cleans the stove, counters every night after cooking. I can see myself getting kind of OCD about stains along grout lines. Currently my backsplash is a super busy speckled brown granite so cleaning is not an issue.

I have the honed marble subway tile and am having some regrets now. Absolutely love the look but am having some splatter type staining. No matter what I try to remove the stains, I am unsuccessful. Grout staining is not an issue. I had the tile installer seal it twice per my request. Under cabinet lighting only shows it more. Now wish I had used basic subway tile for ease of cleaning. I also wipe everything down after cooking. Basic subway would have looked just as nice with the CAMBRIA quartz. Not ready to rip it out yet.

Peonybush, I'm sorry to hear about your stained tiles and how it's highlighted by your lights. Did you have your honed marble sealed?

People! Make your life and clean up easy, go for the stainless. In less than a week of cooking you will not notice the minor interruption in your run of subway tile and will be glad for the easy clean up

Oh! Did I mention, I’m not a pro!

Lanikaicoconut.......yes the honed marble was sealed. In fact, I had the installer come back and apply a second coat for ”insurance”.

Question: I have a 48" range (Jen-Air all Gas) in my island. My countertop is Silestone. My previous countertop was quarts of some type, and previous GE 36" range had no backguard.

The Jen-Air range came with a ~6" tall backguard installed. Do I need that installed to protect the silestone? Silestone is heat resistant for non-contact heat. It is not combustible. There are no side guards so if the hear is from the direct burner range that doesn't seem like it would help.

Am I missing something or is the backguard not needed with a silestone island countertop.

I'm not a pro but, but I've read enough postings here to know that high power ranges have to have either a backguard or adequate distance from flammable surfaces (ie wood studs, etc). The manual for your range should tell you the distance the range needs to be from the wall.   Neither tile nor quartz like Silestone  counts as an inflammable, and further, quartz will scorch when exposed to high levels of heat.

"Silestone is heat resistant for non-contact heat. It is not combustible."

You sure 'bout that?