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joseph_corlett

Creating Cove Tile Backsplash

My new-to-me slide in range needs a matching coved backsplash.

A half a sink cut-out is all the material I have left from my tops. Fortunately, it's plenty. This is one of the huge advantages of solid surface.

This is my Festool router with a 3/8" radius core box bit and a fence hot melt glued to the base. You just guess where it goes, make some test cuts, then adjust the bit depth.

This is the test. The material is 1/2" thick, 3/8" for the cove radius and 1/8" for rabbet filler.

The fence of the router rides on the edge of the piece, cutting the cove. I set the depth stop on the router so I can make at least two passes. It's easier cutting and the final cut is very smooth.

The coved cuts are ripped on the table saw at 7/8", 3/8" for the cove and 1/2" for the splash.

I've ripped (2) 2 1/2" pieces with a 7/8" rabbet to accept the cove "shoe". The rabbet keeps the glue line perpendicular to the surface, preventing elongation which would happen if you adhered the cove directly.

I mix my adhesives in a baggie. Baggies cost about .05 each, a mixer tip is .75, plus you can't tint custom colors with a mixer tip and I can see that I'm getting catalyst.

The pieces are clamped in place.

Glued but unsanded.

Remember that sink cut-out? This is what's left and that's all there is.

Screw up. While cutting the depth in place, I cut the deck too.

Again, this is why I love solid surface. A little super glue, accelerator, and an insert and all is good:

Fixed.

Finished.

I could have hard seamed the piece, but the existing edges are rounded and cutting them square is just too much work. The seams are silicone and with the range in place are inconspicuous enough for me. If anything moves, which houses do, the soft seams will give, hard seams would not without failing.

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