Note: I'm no expert and someone more experienced will probably chime in. I've just recently gone through this too.

The point of the end panel is to hide the sides of the fridge, so you don't want it 24"d. I don't know if you need it 30"d, you'd need to check the specs on your fridge. You mentioned that the fridge is 27 3/4" without the handle, but it depends what kind of door it has whether the door has to sit in front of the panel (probable) and how much room is required behind the fridge.

AFA the trim above the cabinets, yes, it should be out further, IMO. Here's a wall of mine during the reno with the top molding done (that about a month ago, and the other wall where the fridge is STILL is not done because of my own end panel issues).

Also, above my pantry, they need to fix this molding because the left edge, as we view it, sticks out too far past the door, compared to the rest.

Admittedly, I have not had my second cup of coffee yet, but I do not believe you will be able to open the door(s) on your new refrigerator. The depth of the panel must allow for the door depth of the fridge to stick out into the room, such that all doors can swing fully open to either side. It sounds as if they have framed for a standard fridge, not a CD. I am not sure you will have any choice here.

At least the over-fridge cabinet can simply be slid back a few inches. Did your contractor understand you were buying a CD fridge? There are a lot of cabinet experts here. Hopefully I am misunderstanding the situation.

To what MizLizzie said, when we bought a CD fridge about 4 years ago, being all excited that we'd gain the space in the kitchen, we didn't realize the existing end panel would restrict where the fridge could be placed and we had to have it pulled out so it sat in front of the end panel.

My point with my first post was that no, they shouldn't probably make it 24" to be flush with the other bottom cabinets, but yes, it's probably too deep and you need to check the specs on the fridge.

As the PPs have said, the end panel is too deep. You need the end panel to be the depth of the fridge body which in a counter depth is usually 24". The doors have to stick out so you can open it. As far as I understand, only the built in fridges have a special kind of hinge so they can open even when they are flush with the counter. You can trim the current one down but am not sure if the cut edges will be clean.
As for the trim on top, I like it flush with the doors. I think it's personal preference. If it bothers you, then have them change it.

Thanks everyone. I re-checked my fridge specs. The body of the fridge is 24" and with the door it's 27 3/4". I need 1 1/8" for back clearance. And yes, the kitchen designer knew my fridge specs.

@cal_quail: I like how your trim is done on top and will have them change it. You are lucky your ceiling is level though. Mine isn't and it really shows over the fridge cabinets. I noticed your drawers and top of bottom cabinets are like mine in that there is no space above the drawer to allow for the counter overhang. I'm wondering if this will be an issue when it's time to put in the countertop?

THAT side of the kitchen has a level ceiling. ;)

The fridge side...it'll be an adventure.

You probably can't see it from here, but not only is the gap between the top of the cabinet and the ceiling small (smaller than on other wall, along the fridge endpanel that is exposed, it's not even. It changes about an inch I think. At the back wall of the right end panel, there's a much bigger gap than in the front of the end panel.

I keep posting old pics because those are the ones that seem to highlight the area in my kitchen that corresponds to your questions. But I have my countertops.

My cabinets are frameless (from Innermost). In my area 2cm is the norm for granite. 3cm is rare. With 2cm, it usually gets a 5/8" plywood base on the cabinets and a laminated edge where they double it up. With frameless, they use 3/4" which should take care of the drawers coming up to the top of the cabinet boxes. However, it's one of the many areas where the GC blames others. He swore up and down that the fabricator used 5/8" and that if he used 3/4" it would have been okay. Only we know (and re-measured) and he did use 3/4". So it'll just mean the drawers need to be readjusted. I'm sure it was something the GC was hoping to avoid.

(I would love if any of the experts would confirm what I wrote re: frameless and granite sizes. I don't recall if I confirmed it here but I confirmed it somewhere.)

What kind of counter are you getting funbiz?

I like your pulls!

Funbiz,
I very much like your cabinets and handle selections. I'm hoping to do something similar. I would be very happy with this cabinet install as is. It looks very clean and crisp. I think the recessed filler at the top is a matter of personal preference, and I like it set with the cabinet box, providing a recessed reveal from the door surface. Regarding the refrigerator cabinet, if you don't have aisle width issues, I also like the side panels set forward. If you do have them reduced, my preference is to have the side panel at least 26" instead of 24". Reason: It gives the counter overhang a flat, square surface to abut against. If you have a 24 inch panel, the counter (usually 25.5") with have to have a little "t" overhang or have the side finished. I think it looks cleaner ending flush against the panel.