you can call blum.

also, on the blum site you will find out what the widest drawers can be, whether metabox, tandembox or tandem. It's not hard.

i have a 36" wide blum drawer under a sink.

In my case, the drawer floor is completely intact because my sink drain "tailpiece" pipe goes horizontally instead of downwards through the drawer floor. To see how a sink drain "tailpiece" pipe can go horizontally instead of downwards, here is a shortcut concept: search for "remote popup kitchen drain". It can be done without this product too, but the search terms are not good because they sound like body parts (tight elbow).

I think what you meant by "Blum under sink drawer" might be something different. You may have meant a cut drawer floor that goes around the drain pipe. If the pipe is made to go sideways, horizontally, it is no longer in the way and you don't need to cut the drawer floor.

In my case, the drawer is more about 14" high, but the sink volume takes up more than half of that space (obviously), so I can only use that drawer as if it were a shallow drawer, except on the one side where the sink stops short of the cabinet, and there I can use the drawer as a deep drawer.

I also have two more blum drawers under that one. Three in all.

Hth

thanks for the input - something to talk about with my cabinetmaker for sure! This is what I was talking about - it actually is a sink drawer that is cut out around the sink bowls so it has storage on the sides and front. My cabinetmaker made a comment about how you would have to do a really wide sink base( like 40 or 42") for that but I don't know if that is the case. It seems like it wouldn't be very functional if you had to do that.

As far as the horizontal pipe, we will have a disposal so that sounds like it would preclude a real drawer under the sink.

Here is a link that might be useful: Blum Tandembox Under Sink Drawer

With a GD, you will need a cutout part.

As long as your drawer floor is a few inches lower than the sink, the cutout portion can be small.

When Blum shows you their "product" in images, they include all the Blum parts and pieces that they can imagine. Therefore they make a large cutout.

My description of an alternative that gives you a larger surface of useable drawer is more practical and less Blum-spendy. Instead of buying the product shown, as shown, use more custom thinking and get something more custom-made that is more useable.

When the drawer is made as I've described it, the drawer does not have to be a lot wider than the sink. It can be as wide as the sink only. A smaller cabinet. This is one more piece of evidence that I've got a more practical idea than the Blum-web product.

A counterargument can be made. Anyone might post a refutation. I maintain my position, instead of getting into all the details in this post.
Hth.

Davidro1, how about "a picture is worth 1000 words"? Since you already have your concept implemented, a picture of what you are talking about would be extremaly helpful.

I personally would love to see these under sink drawers that davidro1 is describing. I've heard about them in the past, but have never actually seen them. Sort of like Bigfoot :) Do they exist? Perhaps we'll never know :)

I've always described it as a build-to-suit.
Blum drawers are Build-to-suit-youself drawers.

If Blum itself is selling parts-only, is this a sufficient answer?

In their Tandembox line (for example) here is what they sell you.
They sell you the 2-part glides and you make you own chipboard drawer floor.
They sell you the clips to connect any drawer front.
They sell you the back corner piece to hold your back panel that you make out of chipboard.
You add the melamine edge banding to the sides of your melamine panels.
Whether I write "chipboard" or "melamine" it's all the same thing.

(Some people don't know that "melamine" is the surface layer on top of chipboard panels. This needs to be expressed here and there so that they can figure it out.)

This concludes the tutorial.
Good luck in the future!

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methinks the OP will figure this one out, all by herself.
she is motivated.

methinks that most other gentle readers will not.
this is because they have no need for this thingie at this time.

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methinks people type out their requests as if they want a product sold as a product.
show me a picture.
methinks people feel they can ask for more JUST because the giving party has been giving.
wow.

i don't do pictures. I've already explained this before, but I can post it in many new threads too. It has a lot to do with the types of effort that I choose not to expend. And there are other obstacles too.

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Today i hope you get everything you want to get done, done.

One thing I have read is that if you buy a sink that has a drain placed near the back instead of the center, it opens up a whole lot more options for under-the-sink storage. I'm taking that into account as I consider sinks...

Unless you have an extremely tiny kitchen where every millimeter counts, they are not worth the expense and time. You gain very little real storage space, because as you've discovered, you have to take away space from the adjacent cabinets in order to have a large enough sink base to make it worth doing. It's better financially and organizationally to just choose a small single sink and use the "leftover" space to increase the size of the adjacent cabinets.

athensmomof3

below is a link to Sochi's drawer under the sink; I hope she does not mind.

A picture of the real thing in lieu of 1000 words :-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Sochi's prep sink drawer

Thanks all. I wonder if you could do the front only, not the sides, as a substitute for tip out trays which I hate the functionality of but love the idea of for sponges, etc. I also like that the drawer is stainless which would be more practical for damp sponges and scrubbers. I don't need the storage space per se just thinking I like the idea much better than the tip outs. . .

36" will work in many instances, those pictures you see are generally 90cm cabinets which is just a bit narrower than 36"

As long as your sink will fit in the cabinet it doesn't really matter if a door or drawerfront is on the front of it.