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Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens! [Help keep on Page 1]

Posted by buehl (My Page) on
Mon, Jul 5, 10 at 18:56

Welcome! If you are new here - you may find the following information and links helpful.

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets. Access the FKB Categories Page via a link in the navigation panel on the right of any FKB page.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the process...take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as planning for storage can be found by doing a search on the forum.

Tips:

  • Before posting a question, please search the forum. There's a very good chance someone has already asked the question.

  • When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!

  • Note, however, that you will probably have better luck searching if you use Google (or similar search engine) than if you use the Forum search function. When using Google, to limit your results to Garden Web, include the following in your search criteria: site:ths.gardenweb.com

  • In the Subject, the site changes the double quote used as the inches indicator (") to a single quote ('). We don't know why. To compensate, use two single quotes and it will appear as a double quote in the Subject. Luckily, the double quote works in the message box.

  • When composing a new thread, you have a couple of options:

    • Have replies emailed to you: check the box offering this option. However, you must have "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked in your profile for this to work (see the "Your Profile" link at the very top of the page) [See the post later in this thread with the Subject: Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process]

    • Insert a link: When you "preview" your message, you will be provided with two boxes for a link...one is for the link itself and the second is for the name or description of the link.

  • When using the "Clip this post" option (far upper right corner of each post, small print), remember that only the current post is clipped, not the entire thread. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 50 clippings. Once you reach this max, you will no longer be able to clip or email posts.


How are the home page and the Forum organized? (from the FAQs)

  • The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, starting with those that don't yet have a response. Then threads are listed in order of most recent response. That first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity. (If there is no response to a thread in an hour or two, the unanswered thread starts to drop.)
  • Below the thread list are page numbers 1-67 for the total 67 pages of threads available -- capturing maybe 2 months or so of threads, less when the Forum is busy.
  • Below that (and at the top of the thread list) is a space for you to switch to the Conversations or Gallery "sides" - these are set up similarly but not nearly as active.
  • Next down is a Search box -- very important! This is also the Search box you should use (not the one at the top of the page.)
    • Always refresh the page b/f assuming a thread has disappeared right after starting it.
    • As to searching...a thread will not be found during a GW search for up to 24 hours after it has been started. This may seem too technical, but...searches are done against what are known as "indexes". Indexes use key fields/words to find things. iVillage only indexes threads once a day. So, that means that until your thread is "indexed", it won't show up in a search. If you start a thread just before the index is taken, you will be able to retrieve your thread by searching soon after creation. If, however, you start your thread right after the daily index, then you'll have to wait almost 24 hours for the next index.

  • Next is a place for you to start a new thread. And finally there are some instructions and links at the bottom.


Kitchen Forum "Sides"

Discussions: This is the "side" you are on. It is for on-topic discussions concerning kitchens...renovations, use of, etc.
Conversations: This is the "side" where you can post off topic threads such as regional get-togethers and non-kitchen subjects.
Gallery: This is the "side" where members often post pictures...especially if you're posting a lot or a finished kitchen.


Follow-Up Postings:

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Posting a Link

There are two ways to post a link:

Using the provided boxes below the "Message" box:

  1. Insert the link in the "Optional Link URL:" box

  2. Type in the description or name of the item being linked in the "Name of the Link:" box

  3. If this is a new Post, then you won't see these two boxes until you "preview" your message. So, compose your message and "preview" it. You will now see the link boxes and can now enter your link information.

To insert a link inside the "Message" box,

  1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want it:
    <a href= http://www.XXX/>Description</a>
  2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/ with your link

  3. Now, replace the Description with the description (words) you want displayed with your link.

With either method, you will see your link when you "preview" your message


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Posting Pictures

Posting a picture from your photo hosting account (e.g., PhotoBucket)

First, where are your pictures? If on your computer only, you'll need to upload them somewhere on the web for the rest of us to see them. I upload pictures to PhotoBucket.

  1. Open an account w/PhotoBucket or other photo hosting site.

  2. Take a picture using a digital camera (or film camera but get them on disk when they're developed)

  3. Resize your pics so they're not too big, generally no more than 400x300 (or 300x400) (resize keeping the same proportions so they don't get distorted...i.e., don't specify a specific size, use %-ages or similar)*****[You can also often resize pictures at your photo hosting site, but it's faster to do on your computer]

  4. Upload your pictures to your photo account

  5. Find the label that contains the link to the picture
    (In PhotoBucket, it's the box labeled "HTML Code")
  6. Copy that link and paste it into the "Message" box of a post.

  7. When you "Preview" your message, you will see the picture.

PhotoBucket Link Views:


*****


Posting a picture from somewhere other than your Photo hosting account

  1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want the picture to be:
    <img src="http://www.XXX/image.jpg">
  2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/image.jpg with the address of the image.

  3. When you "preview" the message, you should see the picture


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Layout Help

Layout Help

We often get requests to help with layouts. Many of us enjoy doing this but it would help if you can post a copy of your layout, preferably to-scale.

  • The best place to start is to draw up your kitchen (to scale, if possible) either without cabinets & appliances if you don't know where to start or with your proposed new layout if you have something to start with. Regardless, measure and label everything...walls, ceiling height, widths of doors & windows, distances between windows, walls, doorways, etc.
  • If you cannot move plumbing or gas, mark them on your drawing as well.
  • Mark all doorways & windows (with dimensions) and label them as to where they lead. If they're actual doors, mark how they swing.
  • It also would be helpful to see the connecting rooms, even layouts, so we see how they interact with the kitchen and/or extend the kitchen feel and flow.
  • Make note of traffic flows in and out of the kitchen

Make a list of things like:

  • What are your goals? E.g., more counter space, more storage, seating in the kitchen (island? peninsula? table?), etc.
  • What is your family composition? Adults? Children? Age ranges of children? Current? Future?
  • How many kitchen workers are there? Cook(s)? Cleanup? Helpers? Now? Future? (E.g., if you have young children, plan for them as teens for both "sizing" of seating as well as helping in the kitchen in general)
  • How do you see your kitchen used? Just for cooking/cleaning up? Children doing homework while you cook?
  • Do you entertain a lot? Formal? Informal?
  • Do you want your kitchen to be a "hang out" place? Parties only? Everyday?
  • Do you have a separate DR? Do you use it frequently? Infrequently? If infrequently, do you want to begin using it more frequently?
  • Would you like to open up the kitchen to adjacent areas? Close it up?
  • Do you plan to merge two rooms/areas (e.g., Nook and Kitchen into a Kitchen only)
  • Where are you flexible?
    • Can windows or doorways change size?
    • Can they be moved?
    • Can windows be raised/lowered?
    • Can any walls come down?
    • Does the sink have to be centered under a window?
    • Does it have to be under a window at all?

    Note: The more constraints you put on a space (e.g., sink centered under a window, not willing to move plumbing, electric, or gas lines), the fewer options there are. So, be sure any limitations/constraints you mention are true constraints. You could say you'd like something to not be moved/changed or placed in a certain location, but if it's not a must or truly impossible, then mention it's a preference but that you would consider something different.
  • Do you bake? Do you want a coffee/tea/beverage center?
  • What appliances do you plan on having (helps to figure out work flow, work zones, and types of cabinets...upper/lower vs full height, etc.)
    • Range or Cooktop?
    • Single or Double or no Wall Oven?
    • Warming Drawer?
    • MW? (Advantium, MW Drawer, OTR MW/Hood, countertop, built-in, shelf?)
    • DW? Standard or drawers? If drawers, 1 or 2?
    • Refrigerator (Top/bottom freezer, SxS, or all-fridge/freezer? Counter-depth (CD), standard-depth, or built-in?)
    • Ventilation Hood?
    • Other?
  • Sizes of desired appliances (e.g., 30" or 36" or 48" cooktop; 36" or 42" or 48" wide or other Refrigerator? Counter depth or standard depth refrigerator, etc.)
  • Pantry: Walk-in or cabinets? In the Kitchen or outside the Kitchen (e.g., Mudroom or hall)


***** Very Important *****

Is there anything you:

  • Can't live without?
  • Definitely don't want?
  • Would like if you can find a way?

This information will be valuable to not only you, but also any Kitchen Designers you may hire or talk to. Additionally, if you've been haunting the site, you'll notice that we also help with almost all aspects of the remodel, including layout help.

If you do ask for help, then all of the above information will help us help you. Sometimes we stray from what you think you want to give you some ideas that you might not have thought of, but it's your kitchen and you can veto anything...we may argue for something (we're very good at that!), but in the end it's what you want. And remember, we are just giving you ideas and possible layouts, in the end when you finalize your design it's whatever you want and decide on! After all, this is your kitchen! [Keep this in mind if/when you use a Kitchen Designer or when dealing with a contractor--it's your kitchen, not his or hers...don't let them talk you into anything unless you're sure it's what you want!]

Here's a thread that has supplemental information: When planning a kitchen - words of wisdom

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

When your kitchen is complete, please submit it to the Finished Kitchens Blog! This way your kitchen will join others in inspiring and helping newcomers!

Add your kitchen to the FKB!


Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun and very rewarding in the end!


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Links from above

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The Next Step...Planning For Storage

Planning For Storage

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.

  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.

  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

  4. The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  5. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...

    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.

    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

    If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.

    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).

    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)

    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--Tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags

  • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels

  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels

  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels [often combined with Cooking Zone]

  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Eating/Serving--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords

  • Message/Communication/Command Center--keys, phones/answering machine, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot

  • Snack/Beverage Center--near MW & refrigerator or small refrigerator--snacks, snack dishes, glasses [often combined with Tea/Coffee Bar]

  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Overlapping of Zones

Due to space constraints, some zones often overlap. If this is the case in your kitchen, be sure there is enough work space in the overlap for both activities. Zones that commonly overlap...

  • Prep & Cooking Zones--These zones should be adjacent to each other, so this is a common overlap and is generally not a problem. Just be sure you have enough room for prepping as well as emergency landing space for the range/cooktop.

  • Prep & Cleanup Zones--If there is only one sink in the kitchen, these zones will be adjacent to each other because of the need for a water source for both zones. However, true overlapping is not generally a good idea. Instead, try to keep the cleanup area separate from the prep area by putting the sink between them. E.g., DW on one side, Prep Zone on the other side. (You should strive to keep the DW out of the Prep Zone as well as out of the path between the sink and Prep & Cooking Zones.) Also try for at least 36" (42" or more is better) of room on the Prep Zone side of the sink for ample workspace as well as accommodating the inevitable dirty dishes that will accumulate next to the sink.


Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer


SPECIAL NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.


Some helpful threads:

forestfire..please help me with my lists (Missing In Action as of 5/16/10...if anyone has saved it, please let me know by emailing me via "My Page")

List of stuff in kitchens?

What should go within easy reach of the cooktop?

What goes where?

Reloading the new kitchen, any tips where things should go?

Only one lower cabinet...would you do it?


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Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process

Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process

There are three things you have to do to get emails sent to you when someone posts to a thread you started:

  1. Be sure you have a valid/current email address in your profile
  2. Again in your profile, be sure you have the "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked (at the bottom of the profile page)
  3. Be sure to check the box labeled "Check here if you would like copies of follow-ups to your message emailed to you" when you submit your post. (Below the "Message" box)

Hmmm...maybe a 4th step...don't forget to "Save Your Member Profile" when you make changes! (button at bottom of profile page)

If you do all 3 (or 4!) things, you should get an email when someone posts to your message.

Note: Some members have said they still have problems getting emails. I seem to always get emails, but I have noticed that occasionally there will be a several hour delay and once there was a several day delay...I don't know why.

Also, check your Junk Mail, sometimes the emails end up there. Add "gardenweb_user@gardenweb.com" to your "safe senders" list as well.

If you still don't get emails, check with your internet service provider and be sure emails from GW are not being filtered out as junk before they get to you.


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Useful Information

Useful Information

National Kitchen & Bath Association's (NKBA) Kitchen Planning Guidelines with Access Standards: http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen.aspx
Note: As of June 2010 or so, the NKBA began to deny access to their guidelines unless you join the NKBA (for a fee) or order a copy of the guidelines (again, for a fee). I still have the link here in case they decide to make this information available to non-members again.

BH&G Kitchen Design Guidelines (it appears to have some updates to the NKBA guidelines that are not in the link above): http://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/kitchen/planning/kitchen-design-guidelines/

Other useful Forums for Kitchen Remodels:

Plumbing Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/plumbing/

Flooring Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/flooring/

Lighting Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/lighting/

Electrical Wiring Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/wiring/

Remodeling Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/remodel/

Home Decorating Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/decor/

Paint Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/paint/

Also doing a Laundry Room? See the Laundry Room Forum: Description

Or a Bathroom or Powder Room? See the Bathrooms Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/bath/

Other That Home Site Forums: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/


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Helpful Threads

You may also find the following threads to be useful:

Best advice from this forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0720293613004.html

Scrimp on this, Splurge on that....: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg101324514831.html

Where to splurge and where to save??: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg080040367553.html

Care to share your best kitchen storage ideas?: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0716483024815.html

What do you wish you had done differently?: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0722355328974.html

What do you wish you had done differently? [Part 2]: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0220533912060.html

Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0719430319398.html

What 'cons' did you choose to live with?: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0703072225663.html

Things I would NOT recommend or things I dislike!: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0413285931465.html

Things I would NOT recommend or things I dislike! #2: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg061407013201.html

kitchen layout suggestions: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1022032814279.html

4" Broom Closet from IkeaFans: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg021226537119.html

Rev-A-Shelf Spice Racks for Fillers -- Have you seen these!!!! - Kitchens Forum - GardenWeb [discusses filler pullouts]: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1020292023561.html

pull-down vs. pull-out faucet: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0309302313055.html


Curious about text in messages (adding bold, italics, etc.): http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0117005630821.html


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Tile Information...

...From our very own Bill Vincent...


See the Tile FAQs

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/gal0721314418958.html


How to clean ceramic tile floors

Hot water should be all you need for most of the time. The times you want a grease-cutter, use Oxyclean.

Vinegar-- it'll do a good job, but the way it cleans is that it eats away at the grout, little by little. It'll literally burn the grout away over time. The oxyclean will do just as good a job, but without hurting the grout.


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Stone Information

Thread: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

Getting granite or other natural stone? Read the linked thread:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0402564914989.html


Marble/Granite Stain Removal Threads

  • Marble poultice: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0502034822079.html
  • Oil stain in granite: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg030842032164.html
  • Coffee Stain on Granite: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0914442618231.html
  • Update on Removal of Coffee Stain on Granite: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg091310171907.html
  • First stain on white marble: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1213183711789.html

  • Thread: Is there a DIY fix for scratched quartz countertop?: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0816513323387.html


    Thread: Best website I've found yet to view granite

    Posted by remodelfla on Fri, Mar 20, 09 at 22:58

    While doing a search I came across marble.com website. They have some amazing links including galleries with real life kitchens with a huge variety of stones installed. I didn't even get to the bathroom side yet. The pictures are beautiful. They also seem to have 3D and 2D interactive capacities which I haven't yet played with either. Will have to wait for a rainy Sunday when I want something to do.

    Anyway... I've haven't seen one this good yet and thought others might be able to utilize it. ENJOY!

    http://www.marble.com/countertops/galleries/thumb/kitchens/1.html


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    How to Seal Your Stone

    NOTE: This is only for stones that need sealing. If your stone does not need sealing, do NOT seal! Sealing stones that do not need it can cause problems later with haze, streaking, ghost etching, etc. If applied inappropriately, the sealer will have to be manually removed to return the stone to it's original look. Stones with an absorption rate <0.25% should not be sealed.

    Posted by stonegirl on Thu, Jun 4, 09 at 11:43

    Whatever sealer you use, read and follow the instructions carefully and be sure to buff off all excess sealer. For maximum effectiveness, each application of sealer needs to fully cure before the next application - normally about 24 hours.

    Here is a how-to for sealing:

    You will need the following:

    • Home improvement strength alcohol
    • Lint-free rags or unprinted paper towels (the "Rags in a Box" disposable paper rags found at home improvement stores are really great for this)
    • Paint pad (those hard, fluffy coated pads they use to apply paint)
    • Sealer

    What to do:

    1. Clean your counter tops by wiping them down to remove any food residue.
    2. Wipe the counters with a rag soaked in alcohol. (Be sure to follow the safety instructions on the container)
    3. Once the counters are clean and dry, apply the sealer with the paint pad. You can pour a little puddle and spread it with the paint pad. Work in smaller, manageable areas.
    4. Leave the sealer for the recommended time and buff off the residue with the lint-free rags. Be sure to TOTALLY remove all excess sealer or you might end up with streakiness and smudginess. Change rags often to prevent smearing excess sealer.
    5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all your surfaces are sealed.
    6. Leave sealer to cure for 24 hours and test for water absorption. Drip water on the stone to see if the stone still darkens. If it does, another application of sealer is in order.
    7. Repeat the entire procedure until water beads up and no longer darkens the stone.

    Do not think that more is better. Work with smaller quantities of sealer and properly clean up after each application. Your results will be better than trying a single, heavy handed application.

    For daily cleaning, just use a couple microfiber towels (one dry and one slightly damp) Clean counters with the damp one - you could add some soap to it if you wished - and buff dry with the dry rag. No fuss, and pretty easy


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    Cleaning Your Kitchen

    Wondering what's the best way to clean something in your kitchen? See the following post for an in-progress collection of cleaning advice/tips:

    Thread: The best way to clean....

    (http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0205202526767.html)


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    Gel Stain Instructions

    How to Gel Stain Your Cabinets


    From CelticMoon...


    You just need time, maybe $50 in supplies, and patience. No skill.

    Here's more than you need to know:

    My cabinets are frameless, good condition and good layout. But the finish had gone orange and ugly, with the oak graining too busy for me. Cabinets are 18 years old, very poorly finished oak veneered slab doors. Plain with no crevices. They didn't even take the doors off to finish them!!! No stain or finish on the hinge side edges. Cheezey, huh?

    I looked into changing out cabinets, but that was way too much money, since my layout was OK. Painting didn't seem right because the doors were plain slabs. I considered new doors but that still meant a lot of money. For a few years I tried to figure a way to add molding toward a mission look, but the rounded door edges made that impossible. Then trolling in a kitchen emporium showroom this last year I noticed dark wood slab doors, kind like mine, but darker. That was the answer.

    First I tried Minwax Polyshades. Dicey product. Hard to brush on neatly, then gummy, then seemed to leave a sticky tacky residue. I did a thread on the Woodworking Furum "Evil Polyshades to the Rescue" which elicited a lot of conflicting "expert" opinions and arguments that one must strip to bare wood.

    (Thread may still be around as that Forum moves slow.) I properly stripped acres of woodwork in an old Victorian when I was young and stupid. Never again! Jennifer-in-clyde (in the same boat) and I stumbled around on that woodworking thread to get to this method.


    Shopping List:

  • electric screwdriver or screw drill bits
  • mineral spirits to clean the years of gunk off the cabinet
  • miracle cloths (optional)
  • fine sandpaper
  • box-o-disposable gloves from walgreens or the like
  • old socks or rags for wiping on coats
  • disposable small plastic bowls or plates, and plastic spoons or forks for stirring/dipping (optional)
  • General Finishes water base Expresso stain (pretty thick, but not quite a gel) This one may not even be a needed step if the Java gets it dark enough.
  • General Finishes Java gel stain (poly based)
  • General Finishes clear top coat (poly based)
  • old sheets or plastic sheeting or newspaper

    Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler. There are smaller sizes if your project is small.


    Setup and Planning:

    You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set up 2 spaces, garage for sanding/cleaning and basement for staining/sealing. Use newspaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how you will prop doors to dry.

    Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6 doors at a time. Then just 10 minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the kitchen will be doorless for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable chunks.


    Preparation:

    • Take off doors and drawer fronts. Use screw drill bits on an electric drill if you don't have an electric screwdriver. Remove all the hardware. *Mark alike things so you know what goes back where.*
    • Clean the doors thoroughly. Not with TSP but with something pretty strong and scrub well. There's years of grease there.
    • Sand LIGHTLY, just a scuffing really. Just enough to break the finish and give it some tooth, no more than a minute a door. A miracle cloth is good for getting most of the dust off. Then wipe well with mineral spirits to clean and get the last of the gunk off.


    Staining:

    • In order, we're gonna put on:
      1. General Finishes Expresso water based stain (1-2 coats) - optional
      2. General Finishes Java gel stain (couple coats)
      3. General Finishes Clear urethane gel topcoat in satin (couple coats)

    • But first put on work clothes, tie up your hair (Tom, you may skip this step, LOL) and pop your phone into a baggie nearby (you know it will ring).
    • Glove up.
    • *First do a trial on the back of a door and check if Java coats alone suffice. If the Java alone is to your liking, just skip the Expresso and return it.*

    • Open and stir up the Expresso stain, then spoon some into a plastic bowl.

    • Close the tin so it doesn't get contaminated.

    • Slide a sock over your hand, grab a gob of Expresso and smear it on. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry well - overnight is good. It will lighten as it dries, but then darken again with any other coat or sealer. A second coat can end up with a deeper tone at the end - though it might seem like the second coat is just dissolving the first. YMMV.
    • Repeat with Java gel. This is thicker and poly based (*not water cleanup!*=messier). Color is a rich dark reddish brown.

    • Wait for the second coat to judge if the color is deep enough for you. I wanted a very deep dark color, like melted dark chocolate. So I went pretty heavy on these layers. *I did not sand between coats*.
    • Repeat with clear gel top coat. This will give you the strength you need in a kitchen.
    • Do the same process with the cabinet sides, face and toekick area. Might need to divide that up also, and stagger the work: doors/cabinets/doors/etc.
    • NOTE: The cloth or socks used for the gels are very flammable! Collect and store them in a bucket of water as you go and then dispose of them all properly.


    Finishing and Reassembly:

    • I suggest you put the doors back up after one clear coat, then you can check everything over and darken an area with more Java if needed, followed by a clear coat.

    • When it all looks right, go over it all again with another clear gel coat. Or two.

    • Install your hardware.

    • The feel of the finish should be wonderful, really smooth and satiny. Color deep and rich - way nicer than that faded, beat 80's oak color.


    Final Thoughts:

    • Definitely experiment first with the back of a door or drawer front to be sure it is the look you want.

    • Yes, this takes a couple days to coat, dry, recoat, dry, etc but you may discover that the Java alone does the trick and this will save you A LOT of work.

    • Front end patience is worth it.
    • This is a pretty easy project to do. Hard to screw it up. The worst is the prep - relative to that, smearing on the coats is cake. I had over 60 pieces (big kitchen) AND island sides and book shelves, etc and I admit I lost steam partway through. Had to push myself through the last of it. But it was worth it. Folks think I got all new cabinets - it looks that good. Now the finish will not be as durable as factory finish - go at it with a Brillo pad and you WILL abrade it. But it has held up pretty well. And after a year of pretty heavy use, I've just had a few nicks, easily repaired.
    • I added smashing hardware, raised my passthrough, resurfaced the Corian (also simple but messy and tedious) and replaced the DW and sink. It looks gorgeous to me and I really enjoy the space - how it sits all quiet, clean and serene, then gets all crazy with the food and folks du jour. I couldn't be happier, especially that I didn't have to work another year just to pay for the update!!

    Link to cabinets in progress:
    http://photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen cosmetic update project/kitchen during/

    Link to almost finished cabinet pix:
    http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen cosmetic update project/finished bit by bit/?start=20n

    Good luck with your project!! Feel free to ask me any questions as you go.
    And let me know if you try it and how it turns out.


    Thread: Celticmoon, are you out there? Gel stain question (OT)

    Thread: Celticmoon?

    Thread: Evil Polyshades to the rescue????


  •  o
    Eliminating Those Pesky Inline Links in Messages

    Subject: Eliminating Those Pesky Inline Links in Messages

    There are two options that seem to work the most consistently...


    Firefox

    Posted by loves2cook4six on Tue, Mar 2, 10 at 22:09...

    I posted this over in the discussions area on the Cooking forum but thought I'd add it here for reference:

    I use Firefox and Adblock and have never seen an ad, popup or intellitext on GW. I use Firefox on both my Windows and Mac computers and it's true for both of them.

    1. Open Firefox browser
    2. Cut and Paste this link into your browser:

      https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/1865

    3. Click add to Firefox button
    4. A window will pop. Click install now button
    5. Restart firefox for the add on to take effect
    6. Then go to tools>Adblock Plus Preferences and add the following filters:
      ******/adbanner/*
      ******/advertisements/*
      *****http://*/adserver.example.com/*
    7. Click OK

    That, together with the filters installed with the program, should get rid of just about everything.

    Anything else that shows up, just right click on the ad and click BLOCK.

    HTH


    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


    Internet Explorer 8

    1. From the menu bar, select:

      Tools --> Internet Options --> Security Tab


    2. Click "Restricted sites" in the "zone" box
    3. A "Sites" button will appear for "Restricted sites", click it
    4. In the box that says "Add this website to the zone:", type:

      ******.intellitxt.com

    5. Now, click the "Add" button
    6. Next, in the box that says "Add this website to the zone:", type:

      ******.vibrantmedia.com

    7. Click the "Add" button
    8. Click the "Close" button to exit the "Sites" dialog box
    9. Click the OK button to exit "Tools"/"Internet Options" and save your changes


    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


    The above was taken from the following thread:

    How to disable the underline thingy


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    onward and upward


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    C.S. Lewis?

    "Onward and Upward!"

    (The Last Battle, I think)


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    TGIF!!


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    man, the board just flies on Friday nights!


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    A Wednesday bump!!


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    Another Wednesday bump


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    next day bump -- can't seem to break my kitchen forum addiction


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    bumping for all the good help I have found here!


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    bumping because I keep referencing all the great info on this thread


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    bumping again


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    and good morning all


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    bump for the front page:)


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    mmmmp


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    forum's flying today! bump


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    bump

    and please note that

    attygirl's thread on the 10 commandments of kitchen remodels should really be included in the next iteration of the ReadMe

    Here is a link that might be useful: Ten Commandments of Kitchen Remodels


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    TGIF

    Photobucket


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    RE: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens! [Help keep on Page 1]

    When the morning arrived new york asian escort the Druids would give new york asian escorts a piece of wood new york escort from their fires to each familythen they would take them home to start new cooking fires.These new york escorts fires would keep the homes warm and free from evil


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    Ignore the message above...talk about SPAM!

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    lumpy


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    remodel belly BUMP


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    to the top...


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    Bump!


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    upupupup

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    Hmmmm....the 156th post....did they remove the 150 limit??


     o Post a Follow-Up

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