I don't think trim solution he is proposing is going to look good. You might need to have your upper cabs rebuilt to the correct depth to enable the correct install of the hood. I have a similar problem but mine is not as extreme -it is off by 1 inch. I had it mounted to line up correctly in front and then they put a thin piece of wood along the back edge to mask the gap. The backsplash will be tiled and then the wood piece painted to match. My hood is not as deep - you could return that hood and get one that is not as deep but that would still give you a 3 " gap in the back which I think is too much to mask. I have a Vent a hood. My model is PRH9-230, it is going over a Wolf 30" all gas range, 600 cfm's. 21" total depth, 9" high.

http://ventahood.com/images/docs/np9pr9sl9%20under%20cabinet%20range%20hood%20specifications.pdf

How about pulling it halfway out and also using the filler to make up the difference? I'd try not to do either drastic solution and meet in the middle instead.

My uppers are 13" deep and we had a similar issue. We used 2x1s to create a frame behind the hood -- basically an extension of the wall that we hung the hood on. To cover the gap at the bottom, I went to a sheet metal shop and had him cut a strip the proper length and then bend the length 90 degrees near the center so that we covered the bottom and had a lip go up behind the hood. It looks like it is part of the hood and no one would ever know any different. Cost us $10 and my time and gas to go get the strip. Really a pretty easy and effective solution. You'll have a bit more framing and cover, but it should work great for you too. Much better than pointing it out by covering it with backsplash tile or trim, which was one option brought up for us -- 3" would be asking a lot of the splash tile or trim.

BTW, the hood depth isn't the issue -- mine is deep, but the top, where it is intended to match up with cabinets, is not. If you got a deeper hood, it would still be 12" at the top unless you got a custom hood or found one with a duct cover that isn't intended to match up.

I'm hoping to avoid having the upper cabinets remade (if they would do it - i don't know but it would be painful).

And i'm not sure there is a hood that would work other than custom made one. Also painful to pursue hood return (part of package of 3 appliances).

Thinking about what Diana suggested, what if i asked the cabinet maker to remake the over the hood cabinet to appear to be correct? ie put new bigger doors and correct frame to cover gap? It would hang over the hood - that doesn't sound too great - but maybe it could be made to look ok?

Nopt sure if you were typing and didn't' see my post, but you really don't need to have either of them remade -- and expense, delay and opportunity for something else to go wrong. All you need is some lumber -- a few dollars worth if you don't have it in scrap already sitting around, an inexpensive strip of stainless. You will need lumber at the point where the hood mounts to the wall and at the bottom so that the stainless trim has something to attach to. We put a bead of liquid nails on the wood and trim to make sure they held together while we mounted the hood, but I am sure your contractor has some of that or something similar (gorilla glue is another popular one) on his truck. Really -- it's not that big a deal!

Glad you saw it. We thought about wood (flammable), tile trim (makes the issue more obvious) -- the stainless was really the easiest thing. The metal shop guy cut it for me, bent it with a 3/4" lip to tuck behind the hood so we didn't risk a gap of exposed wood, I handed him $10 and drove home and we put it in. Very easy. Hope it works as well for you. :-)

lascatx-

quick question -the stainless steel edge that met the back wall edge - did you leave that edge flat and just tile the backspash right up to it? seems like that should be ok and will give a good clean edge?

Lascatx - thanks for the idea!

So if i pulled out the hood 3 inches and put stainless steel to cover the gap in the back, the hood would project beyond the edge of the countertop (like .5" i believe). Is that a no-no? It would be just touching my head but definitely hitting my husband's head if he leaned over. I know some of this is a matter of taste but i'm looking for real life experience if you have it.

there isn't any no-no in terms of capturing the fast rising steamy greasy effluent that expands as it rises.

Simply add a piece to the cabinet bottom face frame and a decorative brass scroll work plant-on.

The strip we used had a cut edge against the wall and then folded up to go behind the hood. We tiled up to it then, so yes, it has a clean line and the unfinished edge is better than folding it under and making it thicker since no one can see it.
My hood is installed at 36" height, so you standing at yours will be very much like me standing at mine (mine is a deeper hood to start with). I think you will be fine. The question for me would be your DH. If pulling the hood out would be a problem for him, look at putting the stainless trim in front and covering the gap there without pulling it forward. The easiest thing to do would be to apply it horizontally.

A trickier installation, but maybe better looking would be to have the contractor build a 7-shaped piece out of lumber (upside down L) out of two pieces the length of the hood. Attache the top of the 7 to the bottom of the cabinet and have the vertical part come down to touch or almost touch the hood in line with the front of the cabinets. Attach the stainless trim to the front (make sure any exposed edges are finished or folded back flat) and you've created the look of a pro style hood like this one

Here is a link that might be useful: pro style hood

The best aesthetic solution is to pull the hood forward 3".
Why not mock up an (extended 3 inches) vent hood front edge from cardboard right now and see if it's a head-banger for the DH? If it's a problem, buy him a hard hat and move the hood forward anyway. A filler strip is going to look silly.
Casey

Sophie, if pulling the hood forward is a problem for DH but that's what you'd most want to do, is it possible to lift the cabinet above and let some of the face hid under the crown? I'm not sure how much space you have there. Is the cabinet functional? Do you need access into it? You could reduce it and replace the doors with a panel from the cabinet maker, hinge it at the top if you need access.

Whatever you do, take the time to figure out what solution is best for you (I doubt it involves a hard hat) and do it now. It will be harder to come back and make changes later.

another thought if returning the hood for a less deep one is not an option - you could sell it on craigslist. while you will not get full price you may get enough to make it worthwhile, and you could then put that towards a new one at will not project out so far and implement the 3" stainless steel gap cover idea in back as suggested by lascatx.

Thanks again lascatx! and Casey. My DH has weighed in and said it would be bad to move it out but he could live with it. He also pointed out he would hit head going to the cabinet on the right where all the spices are going to be located. I am intrigued by the idea of the stainless steel cover over the gap.

The architect is going to come by as soon as she can and talk with contractor. She initially thought pull it forward but wants to see it.

Pushing the hood and cabinet up and out might be option but the cabinetmaker said that cabinet was smallest they could build. Its more for aestetics although it is functional.

I don't know if exchanging hoods would be possible but i just remembered this one which architect thought was ugly but allowed greater headroom because it was less tall. It would have mounted 3" from the back wall though. Ughh

Here is a link that might be useful: other monogram hood

We ended up pulling the hood out 3" and my husband has thrown up his hands in doing any more with it. So i need to find a piece of stainless steel metal approx 36" x 3" to cover the wood in the back. Contractor said he would put it up if i got it. I called my local hardware stores and no luck.

Lascatx - where did you get the sheet metal and what were the specifications? I see some online sources but they have gazillion options and won't come cut to size.

Thanks

Sophie, I think you can get sheet metal at Lowes or any other home improvement store.
Link for lowes

Your contractor should be able to cut it down with tin snips or a metal blade and straight edge.

Thanks Brickton. I'm not sure the difference between galvanized vs stainless steel. I tried amazon (they seem to carry everything!) and came up with below link:

is this the same thing? it says stainless so i'm just wondering if it is different.

Here is a link that might be useful: amazon stainless

I looked int he local yellow pages for a sheet metal shop closest to me. They are one of those businesses that you wouldn't notice until you need them.

I know I'm late to the party ... but could you have cut out some of the bottom of that upper cabinet and raised the hood until the slope of the stainless hood hit the cabinet face?

Steve - we looked into raising the hood but it would have required rerouting the vent thru the roof of the room versus the side and there were some obstacles in doing so (ie it would cost a lot of money).

I called around the area for sheet metal shops and never got a good positive workable answer on who had the sheets and could cut it for me. One had them but they sold them in 10 ft sections. Another said they probably had them - just come by (a 45 min drive each way).

I found a 12x36 inch stainless steel sheet with pvc covering on ebay for $25 plus shipping and ordered that. I'll see if my GC can cut - else i did find a shop nearby that said they would cut it for me on a labor charge.