I don't know that it would look ridiculous, but I doubt it's the most efficient use of space. We had a 33" sink in a 48" cabinet, and while we did have room to put the trash under the sink, it wasn't terribly convenient.

What will you have on each side of the sink? If you post a layout, we might be able to make suggestions.

Ok - I've attached a tentative layout. If you look at the U area, you'll see the area I'm trying to work on.

The KD first gave me a plan that had a 30 inch sink base with a 15" cabinet to the left of the sink and a 9 inch pullout to the right. To the right of the 9 inch pullout was a 33" super susan. The 30" sink base seems too small for a decent sized undermount sink - is this right?

So, I asked her to work out options for larger sink bases. One issue is that we'd like to keep the sink centered on the window. She came up with a plan for a 33 inch sink base that would be off center by 1.5 inches (not a huge deal - probably not noticeable), but the cabinets flanking the sink base just get smaller and less usable (IMO).

Her plan with a 36 inch sink base has a blind cabinet in the corner rather than a super susan.

So, then here we are with a a 42 inch sink base and 1-9 inch tray cabinet. I'm open to ideas/suggestions about this area or the stove/fridge run!

Thanks so much!

In the corner next to the dishwasher, I would access that from the opposite side - I assume that's dining space? Put in drawers for tablecloths, napkins, the good silver, etc.

I think a 33" susan would be hard to access. What if you put in a blind corner, with a Magic Corner or some other funky way to get to that space? The opening would be on the bottom wall, requiring that you shorten up the 33" base to something else.

Now you can put in a 30" sink base with 18" on each side. One can be a drawer stack, the other can be a trash pullout. I'd do the trash on the right, so you can have trash and DW open at the same time. Or you can do a 36" sink base, with 15" on each side.

Do you have a vented hood over your range?

Is the door at the top of the drawing fixed? If you could move that a few inches to the right, you could have a 30"-deep pantry, and better enclose the fridge. Or consider a counter-depth fridge, if you are getting new appliances. Or recess the fridge into the wall. The idea is to not have the fridge stick out so far past the edge of the cabinets.

What about an L instead of the U?

What size sink do you want/need?

Annkh - we did a major remodel at our old house, including changing walls, door openings, window openings etc. We are looking to do something a little less costly and more quickly than that remodel (we have a child now who wasnt on the scene back then. So, we are trying not to move anything major.

Unfortunately, the fridge is under 2 years old and was our purchase so we aren't ready to replace it quite yet. We might consider recessing if it isn't a load bearing wall.

There will be an under cabinet vented hood over the stove.

We are planning access to the peninsula corner as you suggested. I hadn't known about the 'magic corner' type of option for the blind corner. I looked at the cabinet options for the cabinets we are thinking of using and they do have their own version. That's a definite possibility! In doing more searches, I came across a thread where you talked about losing the corner space altogether. Is that what you decided to do? If so, are you happy with that decision?

Debrak2008 - which part of the U would you take out? We don't need a huge sink, but we'd like bigger than a 24" sink and there doesn't seem to be many options bigger than 24 that will fit in a 30" base. A 27" single bowl sink would probably be good enough but I can't find such a thing!

Thanks for the questions and feedback. Sorry I'm a little slow to respond. I'm feeling a bit under the weather.

I have a Blanco super single SS sink that measures 26" inside. It fits perfectly in a 30" base. It was about $250 online.

Put the DW on the left of the sink against the wall?

It might be helpful if you post a layout showing all the rooms measurements and where the doorway lead, the windows,etc.

Graph paper works well and is easy. Draw it out and just take a photo of it if you don't have a scanner.

Debrak2008 - I think I found the sink you were talking about on Amazon. There are some reviews that indicate that it gets scratched very easily. Has this been your experience?

I can try to get a more detailed floorplan in later. For now, I will try to describe. The sink run of the U is on an outside wall. That wall is all windows (5 windows with a max of 2 inches between each). The windows along the U are high enough to clear the countertop. On the other side of the peninsula, the windows come down lower, making it difficult to extend the sink run.

The stove/fridge wall is an inside wall - the other side of that wall is the dining room/living room area. The door opening to the left of the stove leads directly into the dining room area and the opening that is caddy-corner to the pantry goes into the front entry way. The opening that is at the bottom of the floorplan pic goes into a mudroom - behind the cabinets on that wall is a small lavatory.

Thanks!

sksgrad, I'm thrilled with my decision to close off a corner, because it allows me to put drawers on both sides. I'm gaining enough new space in my remodel that I could afford to give that up completely.

My cabinet install doesn't start for another 2 weeks, so I guess I could have regrets, but I've plotted out where everything is going to go in the new kitchen and still have storage space left, so I'm not worried about losing the space.

My kitchen is a U, slightly larger than yours at the closed end (120" vs your 114"). It is definitely a tight space! From left to right, I ended up with a 36" super susan with an angled door and drawer above; a 9.5" cabinet for tray storage, a 30" sink base, an 18" drawer stack, then the blocked off corner. The sink is centered under the window.

When it was newly installed the cat got in the sink and tried to bury something. Her razor sharp nails did make scratches. Now that the sink has been used for 6 months plus and is not babied I can hardly find the scratches. There is a small dent where I was hold up a large and heavy stone pan. I dropped it and the stone cracked and put in a small dent. It was my fault. Not sure why I was holding the pan so high with one wet hand.

Willtv (another GWer) has the same sink installed before me. You might want to contact him to see how the sink is holding up for him. It was his kitchen and his helpful info on the sink that made my decision to get it.

There is a thread I will try to find that explains how to keep a SS sink looking good. The poster had a system that would blend in any scratches so they were unnoticeable. An interesting note in the thread was there was a contractor who hated SS sinks because they would always get a scratch during construction and the home owner would insist the sink be replaced. He started using this method and now no longer has to replace sinks. I have never tried this method but will in the future. If/when I find the thread I will post a link.

I cut and pasted this from another thread. I believe the OP was sherrilynn.

" I recently had a huge compliment from my brother, a builder of high end homes. He was very impressed at how good my sink always looks. He is not a fan at ALL with SS. He prefers porcelain, which chips.
I asked him why he was so impressed with my sink and hates SS? It was because he has had to replace multiple high end sinks before closing because a workman or someone would have used a new homeowners SS sink and caused a 'scratch' in the bottom of the sink. The new homeowners would insist on a brand new sink before they would close.We all know that we can tolerate the damage that we do to our stuff, but not anyone else! When you spend well over a $1,000 to $1,800 for a sink, of COURSE you want it to be unblemished!

Well, I told him my 'secret' to keeping my 12" deep single basin Franke sink looking good. I've used this 'method' on ALL of my sinks and I just love it! My sink glows because of the 'patina' that it now has...and yours can, too. The finish looks better each time you use my method, too.

I use my sink! I also have a large family that I cook for and use some commercial size, heavy pans. Guests sometimes want to help in the kitchen, or teens, and they bang up the bottom, scratching the sink, and it will look just awful when they're done. They always apologize because they think they've ruined my sink. Never fear. I can 'fix' it in as little as 3 minutes from start to finish.

I've now trained my teens on how to help me maintain a good looking sink. AND if they scratch it, they restore it! It's that simple.

Here's what I do. About every other day, I use Bar Keepers Friend and one of the green scrubby pads that you can buy just about anywhere. It will keep average use to your sink 'maintained' between 'restoration' cleanings.

When there are scuffs and deeper scratches in the sink, I use sandpaper to wet-sand the metal in different grades of paper to restore the sinks. I prefer the black 'wet or dry' sandpaper by Norton that you buy at HD. I already have about 3" squares in multiple grades already cut out and in a baggy under my sink, so I'm ready when I need to 'do this'.

I start with about 150 grit working on the problem areas when I get to them, then work up to at least a 400 grit. I use small circular pattern and overlap all of my work. I never just 'rub' a scuff or scratch in a straight pattern; I always blend my work.

I start in the furthest back left corner and work across the back of the sink moving left to right, just as you would work if you were writing on lined paper. I do the entire sink bottom, then move to the sides. I start with 150 grit paper, then change to 220, then 320, then 400. I rinse the sink after each grit paper is used. Sometimes I use a little soap or BKF depending on my needs so I can move faster with the paper. Once you try it, you will understand what I mean.

I finish off with a good soapy rinse with a rag, then apply a 'finish' of Franke Inox cleaner or a wiping coat of vegetable oil. I have even used Rain-X to help repel spots. I'm just out of it right now and have been using up products I have under the sink. I use 'whatever' to just help the sink repel water right down the drain a.s.a.p..

My brother now had one of his guys using my method on their Franke sinks before final walk thru before closing on a new home. Guess what? They're not having to replace sinks anymore.

After you clean your sink a few times, your sink will start to gain a beautiful patina and smoothness to the finish and you will start to love stainless steel. I also use this method on my $10,000 Thermador Range top. It glows. I just love it."

I use bon ami instead of BKF. I haven't tried the sandpaper yet because the sink still looks good even with the dent.

HTH

Debrak2008 - thanks for all the info on maintaining a SS sink!

Annkh - what sink will you put in your 30" cabinet?

It's a 60/40 stainless sink from MRDirect.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ann's sink

Happy 4th! Thank you both for the sink info and the ideas for our kitchen!