We ordered three apron front sink bases from Schuler and they were all cut on site. They came with a front panel that continued from the doors to the top of the box.

Yes, the cabinets have to be cut on site to fit your particular sink, as well as supports installed to hold the sink.

My problem is also exacerbated by the fact that when my Shaw's was pulled and purchased a year ago, I thought I bought and paid for a 30" (and I did, I still had the receipt) but I got a 24"! I only checked it for damage and draining, not dimension!

Luckily, Shiloh is sending me a new face frame with a blank panel to scribe on site. Of course, not measuring is a pretty expensive oversight on my part ($570)!

And on my other cabinets, Mid Continents in the laundry room, she just read the spec for the 30" (actually 30"!) wrong and gave me a sink base that sink wouldn't fit in properly without hacking it. But a drip rail there and we're covered.

It is always something!

grlwprls....can you tell me more about getting a new face frame?

This is the opening that came with my shiloh cabinet. And it was obviously too small.

But I think my carpenter screwed up and cut the opening too big:

I want to know if I can request a new face frame without getting a whole new cabinet. My GC wants to put a piece of trim there.

That is probably too big to caulk! I just went to my cabinet company, explained that my counters were cut, etc. and asked how they would fix the problem since piecing in filler would be pretty awful in the end (and by the way, a quart of touch up paint is $72! which you'd need to load a sprayer).

My cabinet folks emailed Shiloh and then ordered me a face frame with a full sized blank panel. We're going to have to remove the damaged face and attach the new one, and make a paper template to scribe the sink. My sink is actually not sitting on the cabinet *at all* it's on a 2x4 plinth inside the cabinet.

Again, the 33" sink base frame was not a CHEAP fix at all - $570! But for me, the only solution since a 33" farm sink base comes with a 27" opening standard.

Shiloh will probably wonder why they are suddenly getting a lot of face frame requests!

Ok, I am about to order Shiloh cabinets for use with a shaw sink- I should ask for a regular sink base with no cut out?

What you got was a sink base to be cut on site.

Personally, I don't like these sink bases at all. They are uninteresting and are difficult to install.

But there are other ways to have a great looking farm sink cabinet. However, a lot depends on the manufacturer. Do they do modifications? or Custom Quote Special Units? Do they have an "extended top rail" mod? Even if not, you might be able to use an over the refrigerator cabinet with side columns and a filler and possibly some molding.

Here's a picture of a non-complete install...in a custom cabinet line. But you can do the same thing with a semi-custom line with some creativity and careful calculations! The cabinet under the sink is, for example on a custom order (disclaimer: not exact dimensions...going from memory):

BFH30 (base full height doors; 30" wide)
-Add 1/2" extended stiles to both ends of cabinet (this will allow for a sink slightly larger than 30" wide)
-Reduce height to 23"
-Reduce depth to 21"
-Flush toe (apply baseboard molding or cut an arch??? Or take doors down to floor!)
-Extend top rail up 3" (this is where u will scribe to fit sink curves.

(note: You can also start the cabinet order with an over refrigerator cabinet and do the same thing. I would prefer the doors going down to the floor....will give you more room for storage and your garbage disposer...etc....)

2-3" Fillers with extended sides on both. Can make 6" to 24" deep.
-apply decorative split post columns or order with fluting.

Kompy

Do you know what the turnaround is for the face frame?

Crap. We are supposed to move-in in 3 weeks. The real issue is that the carpenter tried to put the sink in from the front, instead of lifting the counter and putting it in from above. They were installing the counters at the same time, they could have easily done that! So of course the opening it too big since it's a rounded sink!

Well, for me, it's coming on the next truck *fingers crossed* whatever that means.

Of course, I know my future cut is going to be a little generous because I, too, will have to "go in from the front" since my counters are already in. But, my finish carpenter is awesome and he gets that it has to be a very tight slide in. Tight enough to caulk, not tight enough to crack the sink or countertops.

As for ordering the sink, definitely speak to your cabinet company and/or the installer and make sure they know what they are doing. Or take Kompy's more professional advice.

We are supposed to be in our house in about 10 days. Since my sink is actually sitting on 2x4 plinth, the face frame isn't really involved in the sink. In fact, now that I'm thinking about it, it's probably going to be easier since he can cut flat and then attach up to the sink since the sink doesn't have to come out at all! What is your sink sitting on?

I am not understanding why Kompy says to break up the cabinet under the sink into multiple pieces. Many stock cabinet lines suggest a w362424 for the cabinet under the sink and fillers on the sides as he suggests. I have not installed or had kitchen ordered with a farm sink to date. That said Kompy is more expierenced then I in this matter. That said I do not see the difference in having a cabinet with doors that are not more than 24" high or smaller if needed and having a solid frame from the doors up to the top of the cabinet that you cut out to install the sink. A cut has to be made no matter how you look at it.

One post above asked if you should order full height doors. NEVER that without changing the height of the cabinet will make the doors go all the way to the underside of the counter. It seems to me that the plate of the farm sink goes over the cut and not meant to be a custom cut to follow the contour of the sink. That would seem like a dumb way to build the sink to make you cut the cabinet to a perfect radius instead of having in effect a decorative plate that is intergal with the sink as the vertical surface you see.

I had the same problem...I just posted finished photos of my kitchen, but the one item I am disgusted by is the fillers they used to make the shaw farm sink look fitted, it is sloppy and looks aweful.. I can see the fillers with my white cabs.. I would love for them to change it, but my sink cab is connected to a cabinet with garbage and a drawer. I understand your pain.. I think I started previous thread on this issue

"Well, for me, it's coming on the next truck *fingers crossed* whatever that means. "

That might be the only good news I've gotten today.
I thought the same thing. The face of the cabinet is not holding anything up. Our sink is help up by a rail on 3 sides with a plywood platform. I'm going to place the sink correctly relatively to the base cabinet and counter. When the new face comes, they can remove the old one, template very carefully with cardboard, cut the new piece. and put it on the base cabinet without touching the counters or sink or plumbing.

Do you think that will work? Please say yes!

My finish carpenter says replacing the face frame with the sink in place is going to be "a piece of cake *and* pie" (and truthfully, this guy has fixed every other trade's problems so I believe him - in fact today, he used his dremel tool to shave the drain on my Shaw's so that the darn flange would fit in!) and that the cut out is only going to need a little butter to slip it right up the sink.

Granted, $570 is not a cheap solution, but I think in this case (especially for me where my cabinet is way too big for my sink!) getting an exceptional result, it's worth it. For me, when you have a faucet like this one, you need a sink install with no regrets!

Oh, man. I just *love* those golden-y veins with the brass!

Thank you! My GC is ordering a new frame. I told him, I like to intall it with the sink and granite in place. That way we can move forward with closing and they can come in and swap the cabinet frames whenever it gets in.

My granite on the other hand in not such an easy fix. They took the island counter back to the fabrication place to try to get rid of the rounded corners.

I'm ready for the drama to end and move in.

The way I prefer to do the 3 piece farm sink assembly works great and my installers love me for it. True, you still need to make a cut....but with my system, you don't have to have a perfect cut and there's a lot of room for trimming to fit if you have a fireclay sink (which are known to vary is size). A bad cut on a flat panel will show up like a sore thumb! Every post I've seen with unhappy customers...had this kind of sink base. Also, with my system, you don't require a 'overlay panel' which some here have been unhappy that they didn't get one.

So Dave, can you see why this design is beneficial? Not only for ease of installation, but it looks great!

I didn't get a farm house sink but I think this is an informative thread that should be bumped up.