Bostonpam gave me this html link when I asked what product she purchased for her Massachusetts home. She said TR was code enforced in her town.

http://tasklighting.com/ap/angle-strip.htm

Does the angle on this one make it more discreet?

Semi:

I was out of town and NO COMPUTER for 10 days. Yes, the TR plugmold is bigger. When I picked out my light rail I did not realize I had to have the TR plugmold. The only place I found that carried it was task lighting and it had to be ordered by the KD. (where did you find your TR plugmold?) I had to provide my KD with all the info and contact. see the link above It was expensive too. I think Needham and Newton are about the only towns in the country that enforce the national law (or THEIR interpretation of it). Everyone else can get away with regular plugmold and even those pop up outlets in the island!

My electrical inspector is fair but ruthless. We're trying to get 2 water jets (w/ lights) installed for the pool made by a pool manufacturer. It states to be installed as close as possible to the pool in the deck and it shoots 8' max. The inspector says it's an accessory to the pool and has to be installed 15' from the pool. We're jumping thru hoops to get them (and the pool company has not been any help). That's it for my rant on my inspector.

Back to plugmold. I was a bit disappointed by the size and I can see a sliver of it (I'm 5'3") but my husband can't see it unless sitting down. It's the same color as my backsplash and there's so much more going on in the kitchen that it's not that noticeable. I think my light rail is 1.25". I do have 2 outlets where items live on the counter but everywhere else is plugmold. Here are a few pics from my still unfinished kitchen.

this picture has the plugmold under the cabinets and under the overhang - not that noticeable.

here it is under the overhang

you can see just a sliver of the plugmold from my point of view

I think my angled Plugmold also came from Task Lighting...

It's easier to plug things into angled Plugmold and the big plugs some of the small appliances now have fit better. However, it is more expensive. Some here have taken flat Plugmold and installed it on an angled piece of wood...much less expensive.

Note, though, that my kitchen was done in the first half of 2008, just b/f the new Codes went into effect in my area.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: plug mold - can you see it while seated?

Semi: Thank you for the link to task lighting. It looks exactly like what the supply house showed me in one of their catalogs. The angle does make it more discreet, but I'm still undecided about using it.

Bostonpam: Thanks for the reponse...hope those 10 days were somewhere restful away from construction noise and dust!!

I live on the Cape and my TR angled Plugmold will have to be ordered as well. I'm still undecided about it because I too, will need to have some regular outlets installed to meet code, and I also want a few for the coffee maker, toaster, etc. Like yours, it will still be somewhat visible even with the light rail installed. hmmmmm..... what to do?.......still undecided about my backsplash as well, which doesn't help. I have white shaker upper cabs flanking either side of the range hood(stainless) and the same ones flanking either side of kitchen window, but those will have glass doors w/mullions and beadboard backs w/interior lighting. So....do I want a beadboard backsplash or simple white subway tiles? Thinking of going with a sheet of stainless behind range with a shelf....OMG, here I go getting off-topic!!!

BTW, aren't the lights for your pool made specifically to be installed right near the edge, near water? I know of rope lighting that can be installed right under the coping/bullnose in a pool. If those lights have to be installed 15 feet away, they are going to spray right onto the pool decking! Did you get a specialty pool lighting catalog w/specs and installation guidelines from your pool rep? So you can show it to the inspector? Best of luck to you, I'm sure the pool will be gorgeous!

Thanks,
Hotdog

Another (imperfect) solution is to install a series of Sillites along a board that would fit under the cabinets. I think they look better than Plugmold (as long as white or black will work).

The imperfect part relates to several difficulties that can arise in installation.

These devices work best when one cable feeds each Sillite from inside the wall. If you want to chain them (which is allowed) and they are on a 20A circuit (which they will be in the kitchen) the combination of AWG20 NM cable stiffness and limited back space makes the assembly of the wood and outlets to the wall difficult.

I have had an entire back assembly detach from the face assembly due to wire stiffness.

A cable that passes along the wood from Sillite to Sillite requires metal protection against errant drilling. This is a pain to fabricate and embed in the wood.

In hardwood, the retaining screw holes need to be pre-drilled to nearly the thread diameter (not root diameter) of the screws or the Phillips drive pattern will deform. This is also true of alternate square (Robertson) drive counterpart screws that I obtained from Fastenal.

I have had the Sillite electrical contact screws strip their terminal threads at far less than the torque that is normally required for electrical receptacles. This can be salvaged by tapping for a 10-32 screw, but is another pain.

They are, however, TR at the same size they were before.

On a more positive note, they are ideal for embedding in a soapstone backsplash, being practically invisible in that role. In such a case, retention will have to depend on some other means than their screws. I used silicone, but had access to the back of the stone. A lot of weight was used to keep them pushed in while the silicone cured.

kas

If I had to do it over again I would have had a bigger light rail - can you change yours to accept the TR plugmold? Do a dry run.

All outlets under 5' are suppose to be tamper resistant - it's just that the TR portion is behind the wall for regular outlets. I don't think sillites meet the code in my area. I wanted to use them in the island (and did some preliminary research) but got away with the TR plugmold under the overhang - but it was a really "hardship" since all my cabs in the island are either drawers, appliance or sink. My inspector still caused me grief since those outlets are more than 4 or 6" from the seating area of the overhang. Normally they are not allowed but there was no other place to go.

I suggest using a bigger light rail and sparingly use the plugmold since it's so expensive. I have a plain backsplash but personally I don't like seeing the regular outlets - it breaks up the backsplash. Since so much else is going on in the kitchen no one has asked what that "thing" is under my cabinets. They don't see it. It helps that it's the same color as the tile. You probably can paint it too to match your tile.

Finally, these TR plugmold meet code so you should not need to have additional outlets. I used regular outlets because they were cheaper but only in places where appliances live on the counter.

Oh yes, the pool lights are designed and suppose to be installed "as close as possible" to the pool (per spec and installation manual) but they are "accessories" and per the national code they have to be installed 15' away from the water edge. Never a dull moment around here. Yes, we have all the correct info but we still had to get 2 letters from the pool light manufacturer and the inspector has to see the lights (and check out they have the correct stickers) before being installed.