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Kitchen drywall replacement

Posted by fitch1126 (My Page) on
Sun, Jun 23, 13 at 23:20

I have removed the backsplash and the drywall behind it. I just had new granite counter installed. Very excited to have a mostly new kitchen! I need to replace the drywall I removed but the existing drywall has a jagged edge right where the counters meet the wall. Is there a good way to meet up new drywall with the existing that does not have a straight edge? I thought I would just try to get it as close as possible with it and have a huge mud joint there, which isn't ideal but it will have a new subway tile backsplash on top of it.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Kitchen drywall replacement

Generally speaking, you cut the existing drywall back to the next stud so the edge splits the stud before applying new drywall of the size you are talking about.

RE: Kitchen drywall replacement

Use your utility knife to cut the remaining drywall to a straight line. That leaves you with a straight sided area to measure.

RE: Kitchen drywall replacement

You should have trimmed back and replaced the drywall BEFORE the granite went in. That would have given you a chance to make sure the wall was flat to match the granite with no gaps.

About the best you can do now is slice it straight along the edge of the counters.

RE: Kitchen drywall replacement

But you're right, the tile will cover the less-than-ideal join, so don't sweat the small stuff. If it's still really messy after doing your best to trim it straight, use a piece of drywall mesh tape to cover the join. Paper tape is good too, as long as you get your gaps filled and covered. You're going for a functional flat surface to which you can adhere your tile, not a surface you will ever see again.

RE: Kitchen drywall replacement

lazy is right, this was not your finest idea.

The only reason you're replacing the drywall is to close off the wall completely, not to give yourself a flat surface on which to tile - your backer board will give you that.

You are using backer board, right?

This means you are free to use thinner drywall in your replacement, tape and mud as needed, because you're going to make up the difference in HardieBacker (link below). Or, you could attach it directly to the studs and skip the drywall altogether.

You're tiling this yourself, aren't you. Google extensively first, and good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: HardieBacker

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