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lmsparkie

Cabinet finish - white stain vs white paint

lmsparkie
9 years ago

Done to the nitty gritty here and trying to achieve the look of this mock-up photo. I know lavender in the kitchen is to put it nicely, a unique choice:-)

I am hoping for a finish to new cabinet doors and drawers in which the colors will have some depth or just a tinge of variation in color, so I thought a white stain might yield a better result than paint. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this with a paint or stain? Can you paint directly on wood without a primer instead of staining and if so what type of paint would be best?

Comments (16)

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wood bleach and then dye followed by a conversion varnish. Not really an amateur's project.

  • lmsparkie
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hollysprings - What kind of dye are you referring to and how would you apply it? I am having a painter / cabinet finisher do the job. Any other suggestions besides conversion varnish?

  • CEFreeman
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If one paints without priming, one gets what one deserves: a seriously crappy job. There are a hundred million threads on how to paint cabinets, and the results of those attempts.

    If you're staining, it soaks into the wood, so how many coats determines the depth of the finished color.

    I'm confused though. Are those your cabinets in the picture? Then, they're already painted white. Are you trying to add color to them? Because I'm thinking a properly done glaze could work. Stripping seems like a huge waste of time, since you're going to add color. White stain on white paint..?

    Keep in mind that if you do happen to strip them (Think Citristrip) to white stain them, and they happen to be oak? You'll professionally achieve the whitewashed, pink oak of the 80s. You'd need to put another layer of your choice of colored stain overtop to get rid of the pink. The grain would be lovely...

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If he can't figure it out, he's not the man for the job. No substitute for clean room applied conversion varnish. It's what a pro would use, for a reason. No site finishing.

  • lmsparkie
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    CEFreeman - it's photo edited. These will be new doors of alder, birch or maple. I would like a white and lavender finish in which the color has some depth, not just a thin whitewash effect.

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Unnatural wood colors are the most time con$uming and tricky to achieve. You need an arti$an, not a ''cabinet guy''. Or else settle for plain paint.

  • lmsparkie
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Hollysprings. Think you are right. Trick will be finding someone!

  • CEFreeman
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I really look forward to seeing the end result.
    I love things out of the norm: read, white kitchens.

  • lmsparkie
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Feisty, thanks for your detailed input. Just returned from the cabinet finisher/painter's shop and looked at samples he made for me. One actually is very pretty - white stain on birch. He will do a sample of it with the wood bleached first for a tad brighter white and is also going to work on the lavender. So, I'm happily surprised at how nice it looks. Not your 80's pickled finish; much more simple and modern. Will post again when I've made progress.

  • feisty68
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    That sounds great. Ask him about how the stain will age - some species/finishes are expect to change colour with time.

  • lmsparkie
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Excellent point - thanks!!!

  • ajc71
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Anything with aniline dye in it is for sure going to color shift, does not matter how strong the UV inhibitor is in the top coats..

    I would suggest taking the samples that he made for you and covering half the sample with a taped down piece of paper and leaving on a windowsill for several days, then peel the paper off to see the color shift

  • sixtyohno
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ajc71's suggestion is excellent, but I think it takes more that a few days for the color change. This job sounds very expensive to me.

  • ajc71
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If the color base is a aniline dye, which is the easiest way to achieve this look, and it is left in sunlight for one day it will be noticeably different

    Done properly, by a shop that has done this in the past it should not be a huge up-charge to achieve this finish....for sure it is more expensive then the run of the mill finish, but should not be crazy expensive

  • lmsparkie
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi all,

    Reporting on progress of my kitchen redo and my dilemma. Although the photo does not show the detail, the white gel-stained cabinet doors over bleached birch are very pretty - a subtle soft white. I am pleased with the work especially of the cabinet maker who matched all the grain on the doors adjacent to each other.

    The lavender section is another matter and I am trying to decide how to reduce the somewhat candy-coated appearance. It was a gamble to do the lavender paint, but the lavender stain was much more $$$ and I am on a tight budget.

    The paint color is a shade lighter than the color I chose on the color card, so one option is to do a sample of the slightly darker color. Another option might be to add a touch of blue to the paint to counteract the slightly pinkish hue. Does anyone know if adding blue would bring the color more towards periwinkle?

    Or is there a way to make the gloss paint appear more chalky or have some depth without sacrificing the cleanability of the semi-gloss paint?