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bellaflora_gw

How to darken a Numerar wood countertop

bellaflora
14 years ago

I got the Numerar wood (oak) countertop from ikea for our breakfast counter. It's mostly a place for the kids to have snack, do craft, hang out.

I want to darken the countertop to a darker brown & protect the surface against water spill. I found this product online but don't know much a/b it --I would love to hear your opinion if you've used this.

Any other tips/recommendations are welcomed too!

Thanks so much for your help.

Here is a link that might be useful: link to wax

Comments (13)

  • Fori
    14 years ago

    I can't comment on the product you linked to but I do use mineral oil on my oak Ikea countertop and it's satisfactory BUT my kids are too short to abuse it. I think if it were to be a hardworking table-type surface like yours is (mine is just a baking center/mail dump), I might stain and polyurethane it with a proper furniture treatment. Minwax stuff.

    (It's a pretty counter, isn't it? Mine is temporary but I love it--trying to figure out a way to fit a kid craft center into our tiny house so it doesn't end up in the garage. Too good for the garage!)

  • trixieinthegarden
    14 years ago

    Waterlox is another product you might want to look into, it's basically a heavy duty tung oil. Be aware that tung oil is a tree nut oil and people with allergies to peanuts can react to it as well.

    You can stain and polyurethane it...but do not EVER cut or prepare food on it without a cutting board. If the poly gets damaged even a tiny bit, it will get into your food.

    If you are using it for a work surface for crafting, I don't think wood is your best option, unless you give it an oil or wax finish so it can be sanded and refreshed as needed.

  • megsy
    14 years ago

    We are using waterlox on ours and are on our third coat. I researched different products and this one had the best reviews on the ikeafans forum.

    It has darkened the wood some and made it extremely rich. I'm pleased with our choice.

    It also comes in different finishes.

  • chloe_s_mom
    14 years ago

    I've used mineral oil as well as a beeswax/mineral oil combo on mine and I love the dark, rich colour. I do find that it lightens when exposed to lots of water, and reminds me that it is time to reapply.

  • bellaflora
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thanks for the prompt replies! I put this in as a temporary solution (for 3-5 years) until we can redo the whole kitchen. I don't mind that it would be damage (dings/dents/scratches). What I have in mind is a soft distressed finish like old work table or old furniture.

    I will try definitely give Waterlox a try.

    fori: I got so tired of the kids damaging my dining table for their craft so this is a perfect solution -- it's also close to the sink for the rinse/wash up :-D

    Chloe: I found your kitchen countertop & love the finish. I hope mine can come out as good!

  • rosie
    14 years ago

    Haven't used the soapstone sealer. I used Waterlox, which is very good and easy to apply, but it'll only somewhat darken the wood and impart a golden tone. Because all the little strips of wood can take stain very differently (and the same for different grain patterns within them), I backed off staining mine, but if you wanted to do that, I'd recommend diluting the stain of choice and then painting coats on the different strips with a paintbrush. I think a very nice even effect might be obtained with a little fussing over it. You'd quickly learn which grain patterns needed special attention and which were turning out the way you wanted with an overall treatment.

  • writersblock (9b/10a)
    14 years ago

    You can also add pigment/stain to the first coat of waterlox.

  • iambpt
    14 years ago

    I'm interested in this topic too... thanks for posting it bellaflora. Writersblock, you said add pigment/stain to waterlox... can you give me more direction? What kind of pigment/stain? Where does one obtain it? Is there any pigment/stain that is food safe?

    thanks!!

  • writersblock (9b/10a)
    14 years ago

    I've never tried it, but I've read over on ikeafans that it's possible and waterlox says so, too. I'd contact waterlox to find out for sure, but most woodworking supply places sell special pigments designed to add color to finishes. Not sure they'd be considered food safe, though.

    If you do a search over at ikeafans on "waterlox food safe" without the quotes you'll get a bunch of threads. Here's one:

    Here is a link that might be useful: how I stained my numerar countertops

  • hawklox
    14 years ago

    Here is an excerpt from the Waterlox website...

    "Adding stain to your first coat of Waterlox Original finishes: You can also add stain to your first coat of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish (up to a ratio of 4:1 Waterlox/stain. This method of staining eliminates a separate step and provides a smooth, even color change even on soft woods like pine which normally become blotchy. Simply brush on the mixture and let it dry-- wiping off is not required".

    Waterlox Original Tung Oil Finishes produce a slight "patina" or amber coloration that brings out the character of woods. Try finishing a test area before staining ÂYou may find that Waterlox alone makes your wood look so beautiful that youÂll want to forgo staining altogether.

    We normally suggest something like the original Minwax, Zar or Carver Tripp oil based stains.

    Does this help?

  • shelayne
    14 years ago

    It helps me. Thanks for the info!

    Those that have used Waterlox, what is the best way to apply it? Could I use one of those stain or paint pads?

  • h2olox
    14 years ago

    There may be many ways to apply the finish that work well for different people, however, in our experience we still would refer you to the website:

    For a countertop, we would recommend applying the first coat of Waterlox Sealer/Finish liberally with a natural bristle brush (all coats should be applied at 125 sq/ft per quart per coat) . Do not wipe off. This brush application method is recommended because it will provide maximum film build, which is needed for adequate water protection. (application via rag results in 1/3 to 1/2 as much film build as does brushing, and can produce streaks in the finish).

    Hope this helps.

    If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us: 800-321-0377 or view our site: www.waterlox.com

  • soigne
    13 years ago

    I used 2 coats of Minwax Early American stain and 3 coats of Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane/Satin on this slab of Numerar Oak to make a computer desk for my living room. It came out fine. Just used 220 grit sandpaper before staining and between coats of polyurethane. The legs are Vika Moliden.