Actually, it's not the cabinets...it's the finished end panels.

Use 3/4" finished end panels (plain/flat, not door-style) that are the depth of the refrigerator carcass/box. In my case, my panels were 26" deep while the wall on the left was only 24", the base cabinet on the right was also 24", and the upper cabinet only 12" deep.

How deep is the actual box/carcass of the refrigerator...i.e., not counting the doors & handles?

How much space do you need in back for air clearance? I only needed 1/2".

This is what it said for my refrigerator:

WEIGHTS & DIMENSIONS
Overall Depth.....31-3/8"
Overall Height.....69-5/8"
Overall Width.....35-7/8"
Case Depth Without Door.....24-1/8"
Depth with Door Open 90°.....43-1/8"
Depth Without Handle.....28-1/2"
Height to Top of Case.....69"
Width w/Door Open 90 Degrees Incl. Handle.....42-1/2"
Back Air Clearances.....1/2"
Side Air Clearances.....1/8"
Top Air Clearances.....1"

So, the carcass of my refrigerator is 24-1/8" + 1/2" air clearance + plug & anti-tip room = 26"

Thank you for responding Buehl. Here's what my specs say:

Dimensions
Net Width 35 3/4''
Net Case height w/ hinge 70''
Net Case height w/o hinge 68 5/8''
Net Depth w/ door handle 35.63''
Net Depth w/o door handle 33''
Net Depth w/o door 29.13''
Shipping Width 38 7/8''
Shipping Height 75 3/4''
Shipping Depth 39 5/8''

It then calls for clearances of 2" in back, 1/2" each side and 1" on top.

So, 29.13 + 2 = 31. A lot. But, I don't want to buy an energy star appliance and then install it in a way that doesn't maximize the energy savings - and might damage the appliance.

Its a standard Samsung so maybe folks have run into this. Almost made me switch to the GE Profile (isn't that what you have Buehl?) but we like Samsung.

My contractor is going to recess my fridge into the wall studs. It will only gain me 3"inches probably, but that's make a big difference.

Yes, I have a GE Profile...but it's a counter-depth, not standard depth. At first I was surprised about the 2" air clearance you need in the back, but I think that's standard for standard-depth refrigerators.

It looks like you have 3 options (other than getting a different refrigerator!):

1. If your refrigerator is not on an exterior wall or a wall with a lot of plumbing and electrical running behind it, then see if you can recess the refrigerator into the wall. As Marcy96 said, you will be able to push the refrigerator back around 3", maybe more, depending on the depth of the wall behind it.

   Even better, would be to recess it 6" into the wall & next room. That would gain you plug room & a little "wiggle room" behind it. Then, install the refrigerator so the carcass is the same depth as the counters next to it (to allow full door swing) and install the finished end panels deep enough to cover the non-recessed (exposed) walls of the refrigerator. The doors will extend past the counters, there's nothing you can really do about it if you want the doors to open fully.

   (Or, you could install 6" or more filler on the door hinge side(s)...but that seems like a waste just to get your refrigerator doors flush w/the counters...plus the finished end panels still cannot be any deeper than that of the carcass so the doors will still stick out past the end panels.)

Install the cabinets as-is and install the 31" finished panels around the refrigerator. Yes the panels (and refrigerator carcass) will extend past the counters(s) on the sides by about 5-1/2". The doors (not counting the handles) will extend another 4" beyond that. But, at least the refrigerator will still look built in.

Is it in the middle of a run or toward the end of a run? If toward the end, it may be OK.
Pull your cabinets out 3" to 5". You'll still need the 31" end panels to cover the entire depth of the refrigerator carcass, but you will gain two things: your refrigerator will not look deeper than the counters and, a big plus, you'll gain 3" to 5" of extra counter depth...golden for work space! (I wish I could have done that on my range wall, but I didn't have enough kitchen width.)

Good luck!

Thank you Buehl. I always enjoy reading your posts and appreciate your specialized attention. The refrigerator is at the end of an L shaped run with an induction cooktop on the short side of the L. I have a cabinet maker so a few more options. It is currently drawn with 31" end panel, cabinet over the fridge 31" deep, cabinet run next to the fridge 29" lowers and 18" uppers and then back to standard depths at the short end of the L (cooktop). I agree about a little more cabinet space and a little more counter space (in a kitchen that is size challenged). It backs up to the garage wall so recessing is a possibility but we didn't really want to go to all that and thought if the 31" doesn't look too bad, with what we gain, that would likely be easiest. I like the look of counter depth but wasn't sure I wanted to spend the extra money now nor was I sure I wanted to be locked into counter depth in the future.

That sounds like it will work! And you get all that extra workspace! It will probably look similar to ours...w/24" cabinets & 26" panels...you'll have 29" counters & 31" panels...the same 2" difference. 2" isn't a problem, most of it is accounted for w/counter overhang (~1-1/2").

I understand your dilemma about CD vs standard depth...I wish we could have fit a standard depth in our kitchen. I lost quite a bit of space...of course, I went from a 35 cu ft to a 21 cu ft...so that may be why I feel the loss so much. Our refrigerator is on an exterior wall so there was no way to recess it. [Our old ref is in the basement...so at least I have it for overflow!]

Personally, I think you made the right choice...you can have a std depth and if you want CD in the future you can still do it...but the biggest reason I think you made the right choice is the added depth of the cabinets & counter space!

Thanks buehl. Thought I'd better start a different post before I went WAAAAY off topic. I've read you referring to your pet center your DH wanted. What exactly is that? Some sort of built in feeding station? Someplace for bags of food? I've been curious. My DF and I are getting ready to combine my 95 pound lab mix with his 8 pound cat. Yikes! Among other issues will be food storage.

Just to add more information to this thread (for those who have it bookmarked or follow a link to it...)

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Build-In a Refrigerator Slideshow