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galleyette_gw

24''deep counters meet 30'' deep 'counter-depth' fridge...

galleyette
13 years ago

Urgent! Fridge died before plans are finalized for kitchen reno, and we're scrambling!

Does anyone have experience recessing a fridge in the wall behind to keep the door a little more in line with the front edge of the counters? I'm worried that boxing in the back may interfere with the unit's heat exchange requirements. I called Customer Service - no help whatsoever, but ya' gotta try!

I had assumed that 'counter-depth' was more of an absolute dimension and less of a personal opinion! If the new fridge sticks out that far it will interfere with access to the pantry doorway. It's a galley kitchen, and 30''D counters are not remotely possible.

I've posted in Appliances as well, because we're desperate to resolve this ASAP. What I wouldn't give to have a little more square footage to play with!

Comments (9)

  • chicagoans
    13 years ago

    Unfortunately "counter depth" is kind of a misleading term. Most of these refrigerators are about 30" deep with the handles and need 1" of space between the unit and back wall, so you're looking at 31" total (depending on model) from the back wall.

    I didn't do a recessed fridge (although I would like one) but there are some threads out here about it.

    Here is a link that might be useful: recessed ref thread

  • ship4u
    13 years ago

    Hi galleyette,
    Look at the specification page of your fridge and it will tell you how much space is required for air flow. Typically, IIRC, it is about 1 inch all the way around and 1.5 inches in the back.
    You might want to take a look at the Fisher and Paykel frigs, as they are a european design and have a depth of 27 inches.
    You could cut out the wall behind the fridge, depending on your wall design. Post some photos.
    Best regards

  • sue36
    13 years ago

    Can you do a built-in instead?

  • davidro1
    13 years ago

    Your new fridge can be recessed 2"or 3" easily. See the discussion in the appliance forum. Your countertop will be 26". Your fridge handle will stick out a bit. Some fridges have no handles; you pull it open by getting your fingers into a grooved cavity inside the door.

  • sombreuil_mongrel
    13 years ago

    This is my counter-depth Jenn Air.
    The panel enclosing it is exactly 24" out from the wall. If not for the oversize 1" quarter-round molding at the floor line behind it, the fridge "box" would be totally flush with the enclosure.

    Basically, the doors are all that protrude beyond the 24" plane.
    Casey

  • galleyette
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    Sincere thanks to everyone who posted threads and pics to help the spatially challenged! Sombreuil and Cawfeegirl, your kitchens are beautiful!

    The wall into which our fridge would have to be recessed is on the exterior of the house, and we live in a pretty cold climate, so the whole concept may be a non-starter. We may have to make the style of handle a bigger issue than something like that should ever be, just trying not to protrude any further than necessary.

    Either that, or it's back to the drawing board to reconfigure the design yet again!

  • Buehl
    13 years ago

    *** WARNING ***

    To open fully, your refrigerator doors must stick out past the cabinets & counters. With 25.5" deep counters (standard depth), the carcass must "end" at the counter edge and the doors must stick out past them.

    Look at sombreuil_mongrel's refrigerator to see what I'm talking about...


    A very few CD refrigerators are "true counter-depth", however, I think only the more expensive manufacturers like Liebherr, make true CD refrigerators.

  • kmsparty
    13 years ago

    Does Fisher and Paykel make refridgerators in black? I want a black fridge. Has anyone found a fridge that is 30" deep or less for under $2K?

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