Not Alku but maybe I can help.

We have angled plugmold. We needed the 20A ones which is wider than the 15A ones to meet code. We did strip the walls down to the studs and the plugmold is connected to junction boxes within the walls by flexible metal conduits, called green something-or-other. The junction boxes may not be directly behind the plugmold but they are there. Some of them supply current to more than one location or to lights and plugmold etc.

One caveat, make sure if you need 20A to meet code (we did) that your light rail is deep enough to cover the angled plugmold. Ours sticks out on the side of the cabinets. I've been debating paying an electrician to remove the angled wood and just mount them flat up against the cabinets to hide them better. Our angled wood is just a 1.5" square strip cut in half corner to corner ie at a 45 degree angle.

Finally, I find that items that are plugged in 24/7 have dangling black cords against my nice backsplash and I don't like the look at all. Someone else here mounted some outlets in her backsplash 1" above the counter in the areas she planned to have 24/7 items (like the phone). Wish I'd thought of that.

loves: thanks! Hopefully we can get away wiht the lower amperage plugmold (Georgia tends to be less uptight than some states--read California).

Your warning about checking light rail depth is great, and I'd sacrifice the angling to keep it hidden as you suggest.

We are hoping to avoid the dangling cord issue. The only two appiances that would stay plugged in (toaster and coffee maker) will both be hidden in appliance garages on either side of a counter, which will both open not to the front but sideways so that the pullout will project out over the counter. We hope (assuming no code issues) to put outlets inside each garage so cords will be hidden when the appliances are pushed back into their "garages."

Thanks for clarifying the junction box issue.

Much appreciated.

The last several NECs (National Electric Code, which is the sample code that local governments use to establish their own code) have required two 20-amp small appliance circuits in the kitchen. These may not be used for anything but small appliances -- no dishwashers, garbage disposals, etc. The microwave is allowed. So is the fridge, but it really should have its own circuit. If your local code is using a version of the NEC new enough to allow plug molds (the height from counter top requirement was increased to allow this), you'll have to have 20 amp circuits. Note that this doesn't mean you have to have 20 amp receptacles; the NEC allows 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuit, as long as there are at least two receptacles. I believe, but don't know for sure, that all the plug mold stuff is intended to be wired with 12 gauge cable, which is what you use on 20 amp circuits.

Wow: I'm always impressed by anyone who understands NEC codes. Thanks for the clarification.

Clinresga, we have a junction box located in the wall and it appears as an outlet inside our upper cabinets. It is my understanding that our plugmold is wired into that junction box, but I was out of town when they put in the plugmold, so I can't be 100% sure. I do know that a junction box must be accessible, so you can't bury it under drywall.

The angled wood strip was designed and made out of redwood by my GC. It was installed under my cabinets before the backsplash was intalled. After the backsplash went in, the plugmold was mounted. The angled wood was designed to allow for the thicknedd of tile and its underlayment:

Hope that helps!

If you don't want the junction box in the cabinet, or showing at the back of the cabinet, you can put it behind the wood strip and make it accessible by making the wood strip removable using fancy screws. (I suppose ugly screws would be allowed also.) The box must be covered by an approved cover under the wood, and the wires to the plugmold will have to be in a cable (e.g., Romex) or conduit of some type where they pass through the wood.

The connection of the feed cable to the plugmold would have to be disconnected in the plugmold channel in order to pull the wood off the wall, unless enough slack could fit in the plugmold. This approach would seem to meet the accessibility test, but it would be best to check with your "authority having jurisdiction."

kas

Wow!: I now know more about plugmold than I thought was humanly possible. Thanks to all of you.