You are correct in your statement that the Chemical Concepts T-Bars may not
work in your scenario.

Their flat plates however, WILL work - and that is what I would recommend you
use to support your overhangs.

This is what I am talking about:

{{!gwi}}

This can be done to solve your issue. I have done this many times and it works with
your particular scenario

does this make sense???

hth

kevin

CC counterbalance plates: They are to be attached to 'stud walls'. Where does the GC attach them to the cabinet? Can the cabinet hold them?

I have full-overlay doors and was able to use the cc island brackets that are T shaped. We placed them where the two cabinets joined. There was just enough room to allow the doors to open. I can take a pic if you like.

the plates attach to the wood cleat that is screwed into the cabinet frame
from the inside - so the screws wont show from the outside... look at my
drawing - it shows this.

the plywood is routered out where the plates fit up into the layer of plywood...

IF the "T" shape will work - this would be better - but if it can't use the "plates"

hth

kevin

I just talked to the GC, he said forget all this steel support, what I need to do is to stop the plywood right at the face of the cabinet in the overhang area and double up the 2cm granite all the way back to the cabinet wall. That way I will have granite showing underneath instead of plywood, it will look good and be really strong.
Kevin and everyone else,:), what do you think?

nkkp: I would love to see your pictures. I really appreciate your help! This is the last thing in this project that I am stuck on and none of my contractors seem to be familiar with this type of application.
I am new to this site, so my apologies if I am not doing everything right!

Your GC is wrong - MIA (Marble Institue of America - of which, I am a member)
does NOT sanction that approach - even though it does have limited merit.

You need to use CC Counter-plates like I mentioned earlier - let your GC waaa waaa
all he wants to - it's YOUR home - and you should do this right....

I have only been doing slab fabricating for the last 25 years and have seen
this scenario played out over a hundred times in the last year alone...

I know what I am talking about.................

take my advice - or - do it (your countertops) twice - it's your choice

kevin

well....I took the pictures...then I left the camera at the house! I found an older picture that may work. Let me know if you want one that is closer or with the doors open and I'll get the camera tomorrow.

nkkp: Thank you! If it is not too much trouble I would really like to see more pictures. It helps to see how someone else has successfully done this. The GC would be so happy to actually see what I am trying to explain. One question, the piece of plywood in which the T bar is embedded, was that already on your cabinetry or did your contractor install it for you? My cabinets have no such thing on them! Is your granite 2cm? Is this why you chose to have the T bars?

Did they have to notch the doors to make the T bar fit? I think the frame has to be notches, am I right?

I'll get more pic's for you. We didn't notch the doors. We routed out the space for the bracket along the seam where the cabinets joined (had to cut into the face frame). Somewhere online I found instructions - I'll look for them. I have an appointment right now, but I'll do it asap. Also, I have 3 cm granite. I'll post pics soon - hth!

nkkp: Thank you for being so helpful. I really appreciate your input and look forward to seeing the pictures. Maybe these cabinets will work out afterall!

It looks like nkkp's cabinets are framed so there is some space between the doors to put the brackets. It looks like your cabinets are frameless like mine so there is no space between doors for a bracket.

Our GC steel bars inset into a plywood subtop. Kind of a similar idea to what Keven showed above except our bars are routed into the top of the granite. Our plywood subtop is 3/4" and the bars might be 3/8 or 1/2" thick. There is about one bar every two feet. I have pictures:

Here is a close-up:

You can see the plywood if you duck your head under the counter, but unless you are younger than 4 or make a habit of lying on the floor near the island, you aren't going to notice it. One could paint the underside of the plywood or even get some with a veneer finish if one wanted.

We like that there is nothing projecting down from below the bar to interfere with leg space. Here is what it looks like with the granite in place:

Cloud Swift: Thank you sooo much for the pictures! How is the steel secured to the plywood? Did they use screws or is it glued? And, where did you buy the steel plates from? Thanks.

yep, mine are framed so that's how we fit the bracket in- sorry it won't work for you!

Our contractor bought them. He may bought them from a local metal fabricator or they may have been a stock length. They are just steel bars, nothing exotic and bar stock should be widely available.

Why would the steel need to be secured? It is sitting in channels routed in the plywood and is flush with the surface of the plywood. Even without the granite in place, gravity is going to keep the bars where they are. With the granite installed, the bars are sandwiched between plywood and granite. Even if you could turn the island upside down and shake it, they aren't going anywhere.

Kevin, I gave all the info to the carpenter. He said that the cabinetry does not have any wood cleats! What to do? How do we install the CC counter balance plates?