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arghhhh

wall mount caesarstone slab

argh
9 years ago

I'm having a 30" caesarstone slab with 21" overhang installed in my bath - the fabricator wants me to purchase a support bracket for the side that is not supported by a wall.

What size bracket is necessary given these specs?

Please let me know if any part of this sounds unusual for such an install.

Comments (15)

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    9 years ago

    It would be best if you could let (2) 1" steel square tubes into the cabinet from the wall end and cantilever it 18" or so.

  • ajc71
    9 years ago

    "It would be best if you could let (2) 1" steel square tubes into the cabinet from the wall end and cantilever it 18" or so."

    Sounds like you would be notching a .75" cabinet end and inserting the steel into the notch? How would that give you the cantilever strength?

    Interested to hear your thoughts on this as I have a similar situation coming up on a project, I was planning on installing custom "L" brackets on the back wall buried behind the durock..your way would be much easier it it would work

  • elphaba_gw
    9 years ago

    I purchased two of these for my 20 inch overhang on my quartz island countertop. Not installed yet but quartz installer/fabricator didn't have any opinions about these not being adequate. He thought they would work fine. The quartz will also have some plywood decking which should help a little with support as well. These braces will be screwed into the 3/4 inch plywood decking beneath the quartz.

    They are very heavy and in addition, the fact they don't have a part that might interfere with the knees is an extra plus.

    Here is a link that might be useful: braces for beneath overhang

    This post was edited by elphaba on Sat, May 31, 14 at 8:28

  • argh
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I'm guessing you purchased the 18 inch version of the Hybrid Bracket.

    Since my installation won't have a cabinet for the caesarstone to sit on (just the slab and vessel sink on top), I found one that might be a bit more suitable for me in its exposed state (15" x 18"): http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Speed-Brace-4p2457.htm - do you see any issues with this? I'm also considering the 8" x 12" though I'm wondering if the 9" of unsupported weight would be a deal breaker.

    My fabricator is somewhat hard to understand (I kept pressing for some kind of specific, i.e. bracket size, position of the bracket, but got no solid answer) - what's the likely way this slab will/should be installed?

    This post was edited by argh on Sat, May 31, 14 at 13:29

  • jakuvall
    9 years ago

    Federal brace or Rakks.com are also sources, lot of choices.

  • argh
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    @jakuvall those brackets are the ones I would like but are not in the budget at the moment (~$30/ea). :\

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    9 years ago

    "Sounds like you would be notching a .75" cabinet end and inserting the steel into the notch? How would that give you the cantilever strength?"

    It's the 1/3 -2/3 rule. You want the uncantileverd portion to be 2/3, the cantilever 1/3. Two pieces of 1" square tube aren't going to flex in this situation.

  • annkh_nd
    9 years ago

    It seems to me that $60 is cheap insurance against hundreds of dollars of countertop breaking.

  • GreenDesigns
    9 years ago

    Spending $$$ on a counter and sink that isn't supported properly is very much a skewed priority, no matter what your budget. Sorry, but if $60 worth of vital support between you and and emergency room visit isn't in your budget, the project needs to wait until it IS in your budget. Shoestring projects are fine, if you have the patience for the longer timeline that they need and don't skimp on the important parts.

  • argh
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Back on topic, would I be fine with either the 15' x 18' or 8' x 12' version I last linked to?

    Here is a link that might be useful: link

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    9 years ago

    You don't say if your Caesarstone is 2cm or 3cm, but page 20 of their installation manual has a chart that may be helpful:

    Here is a link that might be useful: Installation Instructions

  • ajc71
    9 years ago

    "It's the 1/3 -2/3 rule. You want the uncantileverd portion to be 2/3, the cantilever 1/3. Two pieces of 1" square tube aren't going to flex in this situation."

    Understood, but I am not seeing where the 1/3 is going to be secured in this situation....the OP is not saying if there is a sink in that cabinet, but even without one I am not following how sticking a piece of tube stock through the end panel is 6 or 7" is going to provide enough support?

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    9 years ago

    "It would be best if you could let (2) 1" steel square tubes into the cabinet from the wall end and cantilever it 18" or so."

    ajc71:

    Perhaps I wasn't clear. Let's assume the cabinet is 24" x 48". The square tube starts at the wall end of the 48", runs the length of the cabinet, then cantilevers 21". The tube is as long as the countertop.

  • ajc71
    9 years ago

    "Perhaps I wasn't clear. Let's assume the cabinet is 24" x 48". The square tube starts at the wall end of the 48", runs the length of the cabinet, then cantilevers 21". The tube is as long as the countertop."

    Makes sense, so you would notch both ends of the cabinet to let in the piece of steel....how would you secure the piece of steel? Or would you not have to?

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    9 years ago

    ajc71:

    You could screw the steel to the cabinets, but you really wouldn't have to.