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| Hi all,
This is my first post, though I've been lurking for a while. I'm in the design process on a huge remodel / expansion of a house I just bought. It's a great location and a huge lot (by bay area standards) but an old, tiny, and somewhat run-down house. The remodel is going to add a totally new great room, kitchen, and master suite, so it's almost like getting a brand-new, custom house. I want to get a sort of a sanity check on the kitchen / dining area that my architect has proposed. It's an unconventional design that I found weird at first but grew to like after doing a model of it in SketchUp. Let me see if I can paste in the floor plan here:
A few notes:
This layout isn't perfect, but I think I like it. The negatives I can see are:
The positives are:
That got pretty long-winded, so I'll wind up quickly: Any advice, constructive criticism, tips, etc? Would you bother with the second sink? Are there any major things you'd change? Thanks! Laura |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by AnnieDeighnaugh (My Page) on Fri, May 4, 12 at 8:51
| A few initial comments. Love the dining space...that can be exquisite...I would even think about doing a vaulted ceiling or a tray ceiling or beamed ceiling in that space too to really define it. Not a fan of the corner sink for a couple of reasons...some of which you mentioned, but also because I like corner sinks where there is a corner window...this layout looks very asymmetric with the window on one side and not the other. Further, that corner can be difficult to reach to clean as it is so deep. Also you lose a lot of valuable storage space as the corner is the place to put a lazy susan...we have a large pantry near our kitchen and still the lazy susan is the go to place for frequently used items. Is there a reason the kitchen stops so short? In kitchen design, even 2' makes a huge difference. I would extend it all the way to the pantry door and extend the island with it. I would then put the oven stack on the end of the right wall, the sink and dishwasher on the right wall with a window centered over the sink (bump out?). I would then move the fridge next to the pantry door, and center the cooktop on that bottom wall with a lazy susan in the corner. This will give you 2 tall stacks of cabinets to symmetrically define the kitchen space. This also gives each wall a focal point. Then put the prep sink in the island and you will then create 2 work zones....fridge, cooktop, prep sink for cooking, dishwasher, main sink for clean up. Plus, I'm a "chop and drop" cook so I need space around the cooktop to do my chopping...this layout will give you lots of that. I recommend a prep sink in the island but be sure to leave at least 18" on the side....don't put it up against the edge as it won't be as functional. Also, in my island, I gave up a few inches of useful cabinetry in order to put an outlet in the front...I use it all the time as so many appliances have such short power cords. |
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- Posted by herbflavor (My Page) on Fri, May 4, 12 at 9:49
| what is the prohibitive factor of a dining bump extending straight back? Then you could place some small cabinet and counter to the left of frig.With that diag cut behind the frig,you get very little aesthetically,somewhat of a dead zone,because the frig side end is tall and boxy. Wouldn't it be cheaper on your construction budget to go straight back the 4 ft or what you need,and place windows galore on the straight wall across the back?? Or starting at the frig,push the right side wall out a foot or 2 for this extention...that way you can sink the frig back in there..save hugely in not requiring "built in" frig. |
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- Posted by hollysprings (My Page) on Fri, May 4, 12 at 11:39
| I'm not one for angles, as they waste space, but I actually like the room layout. What I don't like is the kitchen layout. I'd want the fridge next to the pantry. Looks like there's room, too, as the cabinets stop short. Then scootch the sink out of the corner down towards the dining area a bit. That will make a big difference in how the kitchen works. Make the island a bit longer and put the prep sink there and you have a nice tight prep triangle. You could even do a hutch cabinet at the end of the sink run next to the dining area. That would give you a great china storage and provide a bit of visual stopping point and separation between the two spaces. |
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| Thanks for all the comments, everyone! Here are some responses.... @AnnieDeighnaugh: I see what you mean about the sink being asymmetrical. That was sort of my initial reaction as well. Plus I'm afraid that when I'm cleaning up I'll feel like I've been naughty and sentenced to stand in the corner doing dishes. I'd much rather be looking out at the nice trees that are outside that window. (A huge loquat tree and a couple smaller citrus.) I was hoping to put the sink along that wall and slide the window over to the left a few feet, but realized there's not room for it if the fridge and oven stay where they are. I really like your idea of moving the fridge over on the bottom wall near the pantry. Maybe hanging out into the living area, or maybe not. Earlier my architect had talked me out of putting anything boxy on that wall because he thought it would break up the open sight lines from the living room. But I think this may be a case where function wins over form. I need to play with that in sketchup and see what it would look like. If I do move the fridge, I think your ideas of where to put everything else are spot-on. And you're right about the outlets. I've already told the architect to put lots of outlets in the kitchen, including the island. (And in the garage too, since I do some woodworking and have tons of tools to plug in.) The reason the kitchen stops short in the current design is that there's a natural boundary there: that's where the ceiling transition needs to happen. (It needs to be lined up with the corner where the dining area hooks in, for structural reasons as well as aesthetic. I'll try to post more of the floor plan so you can see the context. I thought it would be weird to have the counters and island hanging out into the 'living' area past that ceiling transition. Plus this way I can put a big skylight above the center island in the flat roof there. I don't see a good way to change the roof, but I'll ask the architect because I'm no good at visualizin this stuff. I don't think the structural engineer has started working on the plan yet, so there may be time to change things. (BTW, I admit it's already a bit weird to have the pantry out there in the living area. I figure that the pantry door will be closed most of the time so it won't be much of an issue, but I may be wrong.) @herbflavor: Your'e right about the funny angles and corner windows running the cost up. Not to mention the steel beam that will probably be required where the roof transition is. The architect already got a rough, ballpark estimate from a contractor he knows, and it was a bit higher than I was expecting. But it's still within the range I'd budgeted for, so I think I'm going to go for it. (Fortunately I've been very lucky financially in the last 10 years or so, and I've been living fairly frugally, which is how I can afford all this.) @hollysprings: Thanks! Laura |
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- Posted by maries1120 (My Page) on Fri, May 4, 12 at 18:59
| I am not a pro but just looking at this it seems a little heavy with appliances on one side. Also you might want a counter on at least one side of the refrigerator. Right now you have the wall oven there so no place to put things you take out or are wanting to put in. The work triangle is still the thing as far as I know so look at this and try to think how you function now and how it would work for you. I had to change my design a few times and give up some ideas that were my ideal and be more realistic on what was really functional for day to day living in the space we had to work with. |
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| A couple of things...first, you need at least a 12" cabinet (or filler) b/w the corner sink and DW to be able to stand at the sink and have the DW open at the same time...18" is better. Second, is that a window b/w the pantry door and the end of the bottom counter run? It seems to be an interior wall, but it looks like that's a window there...is it? Yes, work triangles still have validity. Zones haven't superseded them, they've "extended" the concept of designing a cook-friendly kitchen. Zones are important, but you also don't want to have an appliance integral to a work zone too far away...it should meet the "work triangle" guidelines of no more than 9' away. Keep in mind the kitchen workflow: Refrigerator & Pantry --> Prep Zone and (prep) sink --> Cooking Zone and range/cooktop --> Cleanup Zone and (cleanup) sink and DWor Refrigerator & Pantry --> Prep Zone and (prep) sink --> Cooking Zone and range/cooktop --> Serving Zone with table/counter and chairs --> Cleanup Zone and (cleanup) sink and DW A "functionally" well-designed kitchen will facilitate this workflow without having to cross other zones or to run around islands or other barriers. Don't get caught up in your architect's enthusiasm at creating a "work of art"...closely scrutinize that "work of art" to ensure it will functionally work for you. You will have to live with the results for a long, long time - your architect never has to live with it. S/he designs and implements it and moves on to other projects and never has to live with the adverse consequences of that "work of art". |
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| Regarding the tall appliances - I would rather have them on the bottom wall than the right wall. I think they will work very well there and not obstruct views... On the right wall, they seem to be "in your face" when looking toward the Dining Area and the outside and will definitely obstruct views out the back! You could have even more windows if you got rid of the "wall of tall"! |
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| Thanks for all the good feedback! I think you're all correct about the corner kitchen not being a good idea, for all the reasons you've stated. I hadn't thought about the dishwasher issue, but you're right. Space there with the door open would be very tight or non-existent. I just finished changing my SketchUp model to put the fridge over on the bottom wall, and it looks much better that way. Here's a screen shot of the new drawing.
The big diagonal line near the lower right is a beam that will be holding up the roof. That's pretty close to a design I could live with, I think. (At least in the broad outlines -- I was sloppy with dimensions and took various other shortcuts, so don't laugh. :-) It has well-separated prep and cleanup areas, and the oven is close to the end of the island so that could be a nice baking area. The big, tall oven on the wall by the dining area is still slightly annoying, both because it looks odd from the dining area (though hollysprings's hutch idea might allleviate that) and because it makes the kitchen area feel a bit boxed in with big appliances on each end. I left some room in the drawing for a hutch or shelves or some such. I haven't thought of a good way to get both big appliances on the other wall. I could eliminate the problem by going with a range instead of a wall oven, but I really don't like ranges because you have to bend over to get at the oven. I much prefer having the oven up at a good working height. If anyone has ideas on what, if anything, to do here, let me know. @maries120: @buehl: Even if I can't get rid of the whole wall of tall, moving the fridge away from that wall (and keeping the oven) lets me slide the window a couple of feet to the left. That should make it feel like a more central part of that wall and light up the kitchen better, rather than having it half hidden in the corner. And the window could conceivably be expanded by a foot or so in either / both directions. If it got any larger than that wall wouldn't quality as a shear wall, which is important since I'm ~30 miles from the San Andreas fault. The segment that looks like a window on the bottom wall of the plan in my first post is actually his notation for a newly constructed wall. That part of the wall has 4 lines, while the windows have 3. The existing walls just have 2. (A bit hard to see in my upload, I know.) The bottom wall in that plan is the back wall of the existing house. I think the parts he shows as new construction are windows in the existing house. Laura |
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| Great minds think alike! I just got done coming up with two designs...the first one is my favorite and is very close to yours - with a significant (to me) difference - the location of the MW. The second one is probably almost identical to yours! :-) In the first, the MW is:
Personally, I think the tall end cabinet + tall refrigerator "anchor" the kitchen and give you just a bit of separation without closing it off from the other areas...but, that's my personal opinion! |
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| Another difference - no upper cabinets on the sink wall...I think it helps open up the space better. Note that I added a 7" bump-out behind the window. It gives you more room behind the sink for a faucet and for cleaning as well as provides a "splash zone" to help minimize splashing the window. The window is counter-height - flush with the counter rather than a few inches above. Another thing that opens up the kitchen to the outside more. |
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| (It could be a range or cooktop. The range gives you an extra oven if you ever need it. The cooktop gives you more storage space.) |
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| Wow, buehl, that's really nice! Want a job? :-) I've never heard of a microwave drawer before. I assume it's more than just a big drawer with a microwave in it. Time to go do some Googling. Locating it near the fridge is a great idea. The one downside is that I'd lose the feature in some oven/microwave combos where you can use the microwave as an extra oven. But I think there have only been one or two times when I ever would have used a second oven, so that probably doesn't matter. I need to think about whether I want to extend the kitchen those 2 or 3 extra feet out where you have the fridge. That might be strange, because I think those are going to feel like two different rooms with the ceiling transition there. Maybe I'll try to draw it both ways and see what they look like. I like the idea of no upper cabinets on the sink wall. There are plenty on the cooktop wall, and I'm going to have more storage space than I know what to do with already, especially with the big pantry. And it lets that window be larger. My architect had proposed a counter-height window there without mentioning a bump-out. I need to ask him what he was thinking. I don't know if he had a specific kind of window in mind that wouldn't need the bump-out, or if he just hadn't gotten down to that level of detail yet. Laura |
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| MW drawers are MWs built as drawers. They're a great idea if your MW is under-the-counter like ours is. Putting a regular MW in an under-counter alcove was not an option for us...we're a tall family and having to squat or lean way over to access a MW in an alcove was not going to work for us (nor was an under-counter oven)! BTW...while you can find Sharp MW drawers, Dacor, etc., they're all made by Sharp and are re-badged as other manufacturers. So, get a Sharp as there is less of a markup. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: counter height window pictures please
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| "I need to think about whether I want to extend the kitchen those 2 or 3 extra feet out where you have the fridge. That might be strange, because I think those are going to feel like two different rooms with the ceiling transition there. Maybe I'll try to draw it both ways and see what they look like. " If the extra couple of feet are an issue, you could eliminate the 12" cabs flanking the range/cooktop. There's still enough landing space on both sides and there's enough workspace not only across the aisle on the island but also b/w the sink and range/cooktop. It won't be quite as open, but I think it would work. Another option is to modify the ceiling "transition" to accommodate the extra space. |
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| Those microwave drawers are way cool. The photos on Sharp's site where you slide it you, set a plate or cup on it, and slide it back in are great. I want one. Changing the ceiling transition would be difficult and would have some bad side effects. The transition isn't just for aesthetic reasons -- there needs to be a big beam up there to hold up the cathedral ceiling on the living room side and the flat ceiling on the kitchen side. (The latter will probably be a foot or two higher, sitting on the top of the beam.) So moving the beam requires moving the corner where the dining area ties into the living room, which requires pushing in or pulling out other walls, which .... you get the idea. I'd originally thought about just having one big cathedral ceiling over the whole space, but the roof line just won't work that way. Due to the width of the back part of the house, the roof would get too high and stick up over the top of the roof on the front of the house, which would be too bizarre even for me. I'm not explaining it too well, so at some point I'll post a shot of my sketchup model of the exterior I'm experimenting with how it will look without those two 12" cabinets as you suggested. I think there will probably still be plenty of space on either side of the cooktop / range, and storage space won't be a problem at all. There are some great photos in that counter-height windows thread! Thanks, Laura |
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I did another iteration on my drawings incorporating a lot of your ideas:
The main things that are different are:
I'm pretty happy with most of this, though I'm sure I'll change some of the cabinet dimensions. And I still need to think about sliding the fridge out into the living room and about the microwave drawer. The other thing I still need to figure out is what to do above the cabinets, especially above the cooktop. The ceiling is going to be at least 10' and maybe 11', due to the way the roof is going to hook together. I could just leave things as in the drawing, but there's nowhere for the hood exhaust to go. The architect suggested upper, windowed cabinets, with the hood exhaust and blower hidden in the middle. That could work, though with the crazy high ceilings those cabinets might look overwhelming and be super-expensive. I'm going to ask the architect if it's possible to just route the exhaust back into the wall, then up, then out the other side of the wall when it gets up above the roofline on the rest of the building. Laura |
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