Not going to be helpful but I'm really excited for your kitchen! Esp want to see that cork floor!

Ordered it yesterday! Along with the sink, toilet, bathroom faucet, and pulls. Pics when it gets here in 2 weeks!

Disposal.

Sink strainer baskets and disposal flanges. Disposal electrical cord. Electrical cord for hood. New water supply lines. Touch up kit for cabinets, Scribe molding for cabinets. Quarter round (if you like how it looks with the toekick.) Cord cover/concealer for any wiring run through cabinets. Dimmer switches for lighting. Sealer for grout on tile backsplash. Caulk, caulk, and more caulk. Caulking gun. Sanded caulk fo the changes in plane for the tile backsplash. Tile spacers for the backsplash. Plastic sheeting and masonite to protect installed components from other trades if they need to come in with floors or cabinets installed. Blue tape to substitute for knobs if you don't have knobs selected yet. Knobs and pulls. Plywood for subfloor. Ring shanked nails or screws to install subfloor.

Hi Williamsem,

I'll be watching this post closely. We are ~ 2 weeks apart for our renovation schedules. Our cabinets are arriving today!

I can't wait to see your photos.
MJ

Disposal flange that matches the faucet! Wow that was a close call, with a $200/hour plumber in the wings, lol.

Enough overhang on counters to cover cabinetry with overlay doors. Those are 25" cabinets, not 24. So a 25" standard depth counter is very close. Your cabinets and/or finish will get ruined. I do not understand why the professionals do not address this issue.

Actually, :) cabinet boxes are 24" and the doors are 3/4", making that 24 3/4". "Standard" overhangs are 1 1/2" from the box (25 1/2") , making the overhang over the doors 3/4". Now, that won't cover your hardware though. And, many people will want more overhang for that. And many people doing something more contemporary will want less, so the counter is flush with the door.

However, there are many "johnny come lately" bargain stone guys out there who don't know a heck of alot and manage to screw up "standards".

power cord for undercabinet lighting, led or any other special order light bulbs, cabinet knobs, after-market rev-a-shelf cabinet add-ons that you want contractors to install

I was rounding ;)

Mine do come to about 25 inches. There is 24" + 3/4" door + the air space gap! which is, what, about 1/8". Even with the 26" spec, it was not uniform and some is less less overhang than planned. I think I was hoping to get about 3/4 inch. Not sure how that worked and I am away from my kitchen.

It is an important consideration. My old cabinets and finish got quite damaged so I was on alert. I think it also looks odd, in a traditional kitchen, to have the overhang so skimp. We were accustomed to 1" to 1-1/2" in the past (and recommended), as I recall.

P.S. My so-called 24" cabinet depth is 25", including the overlay door and a 1/4" air gap between the door and frame. The KD was going to put a 25" counter on it. And was surprised at my insistence this wasn't going to be enough!

This post was edited by snookums2 on Fri, Apr 19, 13 at 21:32

Which cork did you decide to go with?
You start 2 months ahead of me so I agree with deedles - I want to hear how it goes with the cork!

Exciting!
Between KD and GC everything was covered.
The kicker was picking a paint color before cabinet install. I painted swatches behind the ovens, so whoever does the next reno will be wondering about the checkerboad.
Can't wait to see your kitchen!

Thanks for all the reminders! I've been driving myself nuts looking at all the Lutron switches and dimmers. I have to commit this weekend to get them here on time.

Did remember the disposal, in my Amazon cart at the moment with my faucet. And the air switch.

Oh my goodness, GreenDesigns, what a laundry list! Thanks! I do think most of that my GC is taking care of, I am responsible for most of what will be seen that needs to be picked out. I'm pretty sure the disposal comes with cord and flange, will double check. Hood is hard wired.

What are ring shanked nails? I was very clear every time we met with the GC the subfloor must be perfectly flat and free of bumps as they will telegraph through the cork. Are those nails something I should ask for?

Ordered pulls. Remembered housing for the LEDs. Will call the UC LED place by Monday latest about that system, they ship out same day.

I do need to decide about sink stuff too, but that can wait another week or so while I get the rest taken care of. Cabinets go in 5/13, so more wiggle room.

Electric will be in week 1. Need a fan too.

Mjocean and olivertwist, I plan to post pics daily in a thread for those following. Looking forward to watching your projects too! I ordered USFloors Tabac Matte. I had spec'd preglued tiles for my quote, so I felt obligated to search them out when I realized the Globus colors weren't working like I wanted (maybe next room, I love their stuff!). I would have used tiles that had to be glued on site if it came down to it, but I did like these better.

As for the ring shanks nails/smooth floor issue. Remember what happened to my marmoleum? The used a water based floor leveler that caused the subfloor to swell up and then when it dried out I have those warts all over my floor wherever a nail head is from the dried leveler on top of the nail head being higher than the now dried out subfloor is. I have no idea if this could be an issue for cork but I'm throwing it out there cause I'd hate to see this happen to anyone else.

I swear anyone that installs our cork is going to get put through the 3rd degree before they do anything. I'm also going to know more about installation requirements than they do so I can spot a mistake before it happens.

"...I'm pretty sure the disposal comes with cord and flange..."

It probably does come with a flange, but we wanted one to match everything else so we ordered the Kohler disposal flange in brushed stainless. When I compared it to what came with the disposal, I was glad I did! It looks nicer! :-)

BTW...ditto concerning the sink strainers & baskets - the Kohler DuoStrainer in brushed (or satin) SS look so much nicer than what our contractor was going to put in and the strainer itself is the best I've ever had! It closes completely with no leaking and it also "locks open" so no accidentally closing it. They've been working since mid-2008 and still work as well as and look as nice as Day One!

I think I'm in good shape, just need a few more outlets now that we know what's staying.

For those a few weeks behind, some things I learned to check:

-if you have a deep sink and a GD make sure the pipes are at the right height. I don't recall which thing tends to be a problem, but I made sure I had the specs on hand and stressed I had a 10 inch undermount sink and asked specifically about the plumbing. I'm supposed to be ok, guess we'll see!

-I'm also doing our powder room. Check the supply line location. For skirted toilets it might need to be moved, check your specs.

Air gap for the dishwasher.

Yes, double check about the plugs for the dishwasher and garbage disposals. I had to pick up 3 pronged cords for my 2 disposals and the dishwasher.

Icemaker box is another to put on the list.

Where are you getting your LED UCL's? I'm on that decision right now (should've thought about it much earlier considering the cabinets are in and the wires are run).

I got mine from Environmentallights.com, which I read good things about over in the Lighting forum. I wanted dimmable LEDs, so I was braced for the worst, though it wasn't that bad. I priced two options locally where I got the rest of my light stuff. EL was less for their Maxlight self driven system, I suspect their other line might be a little less than that was.

They've been great so far, and my GC loves them so far, though he's reserving final judgement until they are actually installed. I even called Friday with a question, even though I called with questions when I ordered, and the person that answered put me right through to the system engineer that I was working with.

Contact them through the website with that you are looking for and which line you are interested in, attach your floor plan. They will spec out your plan and send you a list of what you need.

**IMPORTANT**
Then before you actually place the order, sign up for the email newsletter. They send a 10% off your order coupon with your confirmation. Use that when you order your system.

Thanks! I'd actually seen those before but my cabinet maker swears by the Hafele LED lights. He left me with 9 lights, a driver, a dimmer, and connector wires, but I've not paid for any of it yet. I need to price compare because the dimmer was $60 and the driver was $65 plus my electrician has to run the connector wires in the attic if I use the Hafele lights, whereas my existing wiring will work with the self driven ones.

Sink strainer (for over GD, hoping to save my flatware!)

Matching doorknobs and hinges for closet, powder room, etc (I'm going from brass look to satin nickel)

Kitchen rated fire extinguisher! I'm due for a replacement.

> Kitchen rated fire extinguisher!

I just ordered myself one of those, after watching America's Test Kitchen do some tests that revealed a very clear winner. Link below...

Here is a link that might be useful: Kidde FX10K Kitchen Fire Extinguisher

Sweet! I accidentally bought the best one, lol! Thanks for posting for us all, one less decision :-)

I'm thinking about an under sink tray and under DW tray for small leaks. And under fridge if they make such a thing. Anyone have experience or a source to share?

@williamsem - Rev-a-shelf has a try for under the sink. That is something that we will likely be getting to protect our new cabinets when installed. No messes from cleaning products to stain the cabinet. If any water ever leaks around the plumbing or sink, it gets directed to the front of the cabinet and onto the floor so you can spot it right away.

Here is a link that might be useful: Undersink Drip Tray

Some things I don't have but wish I did would be a Tapmaster and maybe a place to put a reverse osmosis water filtration system.

Learned about them too late in the game :( Hopefully, I can add them later on since the bank is a bit dry at the moment...lol

williamsen, I don't know about you, but I would avoid that under sink tray. It will direct any water leaks out of your cabinet and onto your new cork floor!!

@olivertwist - A leak might be noticed faster that way and do less damage overall. It is also generally easier to address damage to a floor than damage to a cabinet (and anywhere else the water might venture).

Thanks, Olivertwist. My understanding is like gpraceman, the goal is to funnel small leaks/drips out where they can be seen and addressed quickly. I would hope that means for most of us within a day or two. Same with the DW. Those small leaks can cause a lot of damage over time because you don't know they are there.

I do cringe at directing things onto the new floor though. Still haven't decided. DW is easier, either way the floor gets wet, just if I can see it it will be fixed sooner! Those trays are darn hard to find though.

Of course if you have a major leak no tray is going to help.

Disposal Air Switch. I love the idea of pushing a button in the counter top next to the sink to turn the disposer on/off instead of reaching over to a wall switch. Since it is an air switch, there is no electricity, so no need to worry about if your hands are wet.

Here is a link that might be useful: Disposer Air Switch