Your soapstone is gorgeous!

The L-brackets we got were super heavy duty and could easily support that overhang. We had ours installed before the countertop, so that the vertical part of the L could be inside the cabinets and not visible. You can kind of see how they were installed in this pic:

I was having trouble envisioning how you could hide the brackets since your counter is already installed, but then I found this at the site where we ordered ours. Are you planning a "skin" for the back of your island to match the rest of it? If so, this scenario would work for you.

Brackets applied after counter.

Here is a link that might be useful: Source for heavy duty L brackets

Okay this may be a really dumb idea but if your finished kitchen is going to be modern and contemporary, why not go with that and make the supports totally visible?

This isn't eaxctly what I mean, but I'm thinking about something like a cool metal support like these. I know I know - it cuts into the corner and makes manuoevering with stools tough but does it open up the possibilties for something else?

{{!gwi}}

Could you make supports such as the ones above wood to match your cabs?

Eliz

MIA (Marble Institute of America) specs call out the following:
3CM stone - Any unsupported area of 10" or more -
need to have corbels.

Here's what I would recommend = Use 4 (four) ten inch
corbels, and attach them to the vertical studs in the
pony wall that your upper is stuck to.

There is also a cantilever (sp?) assembly that your fabricator
can get through Chemical Concepts - that may help support
adequately - without the "look" of a corbel... It's called
an Counter Balance Island Bracket Kit. I do not sell these,
but they may be what you are looking for - to get the
look you're after......

Nice looking application - you need to support it right
or it will wind up on your floor someday....

HTH

kevin

Here is a link that might be useful: Counter Balance Island Bracket Kit

Thanks for the input.

This is turning out to be one of the most frustrating aspects of our kitchen remodel.

My concern is that the top has already been adhered to the island. I like the Counterbalance product (I have the name of the individual who just deals with them and will call him this morning) but I don't know if it will work if I can't get the soapstone up without damaging it or the cabinets.

I will call the fabricator and see if there is a way to remove the top of the island in order to install the counterbalance. That is of course if it will support the overhang.

I am kicking myself for extending the middle of this overhang to 20". It is making my life miserable. I am now fretting that it is too big for the kitchen... Perhaps I should just send it back and have it cut.

Holligator called it right, if you don't want to see corbels under your countertop go with the L brackets like she did.

You can cut your drywall out and attach them to the studs. Then fix the drywall so they are not seen at all. . .

It would have been easier to do it with the top off, but it is not that hard to do it with the top on. . . so I don't see this as a problem.

Thanks florida joshua. I have found a place that will fabricate out of stainless steel the "L" brackets for me. Is it true that stainless steel will be stronger than cold rolled steel? Or would I be okay with the cold rolled steel?

Would you suggest using the 5 brackets or just 2 on either side of the widest part of the arc?

Also, how do I attach the bracket to the countertop? Does it just lay on top, drill it, or use silicone?

Thanks for your expertise!

I agree with my esteemed Industry Colleague and Brother Joshua -
This should not be a problem at all - your tops are still
relatively "green" (as in not having been set long enough
to "cure" and harden up the bond)
so "popping them off should be an easy task - especially if
your Fabricator's Install crew used acrylic caulk to do
the "stick"... if they used silicone, it will be a bit more
difficult to detach, but at this point in the life of the
installation - it should still be do-able....

Plus you are using what looks to be 3CM material, so there
should not be a problem....

Joshua is right too - the "L" brackets would work fine
(and do a splendid job for you too!!!)

just my .02 cents worth

kevin

PS - Hey Josh!!! Hope you're doin OK My Brutha!!!!

Another option. We have a counter with an overhang and I didn't want to see the supports. I picked up two 3' pieces of 1/2" thick by 2" wide tool-grade steel at at metal shop. That was $50. The countertop is 40" wide. I'm now able to route a slot for the steel on the underside of the countertop so that the steel is complete hidden. Our counter is butcherblock so I'm routing right in the counter. But your counter might have a plywood substrate and you could remove the counter (ugh), route a grove in the ply, insert the steel, and put the counter back on.

L brackets would be much easier, but I hear your pain. Wouldn't want that look in my space...

holligater - are your brackets the "freedom" brackets from the short run website? Its hard to tell from the pics - did they notch out the top edge of the cabinet to lay in the horizontal part of the bracket>

kitchenred0 - sorry the communication problems b/c your KD and the installer is causing you so much grief!
On the bright side, your soapstone is beautiful. Hard to tell from the pics, but is your viening prdominately green rather than white? If so, do you know the name of the soapstone type?

Thanks!