The piece between the cabinet and the crown is called "Facia". The piece above the facia is called, as you already know, crown.

Here's a shot of mine.

I have a 3-piece crown molding. The flat middle piece is "filler" that was cut down to adjust for uneven ceiling height.

Ajard's appears to be 2 pieces. However, her filler (or facia), is curved, so if you cut it down in places for your ceiling, it might "show".

My KD's design for my kitchen:

It looks like this baseboard, installed upside down, probably 4" or so.
Lowe's baseboard

Thank you for your responses. Willtv -Yes, fascia makes sense. When I googled that, I was finding more about what I am looking for.

Buehl - I have referred to your diagram before and have found it to be very helpful (as I find almost everything that you post)! Ajard's molding does look curved, I wasn't sure if I was seeing it correctly. I like that look and am trying to find molding just like it.

Marti8a - I was thinking upside down baseboard might work. I wonder if I can find something with that curved look.

I thought of another question. Is there a way to attach the molding without visible nail holes? I know you can caulk them, but if you order molding already painted with the cabinet company's finish, I would think it wouldn't blend as well as hand-painted cabinets. Any ideas? Thanks!

My moulding is 2 pieces and it was up the the new ceiling when all was finished.. over time ( less then 1 year) I can see space in most areas between the moulding and the ceiling.. not sure if I am going to address that

Thanks, Ajard. Maybe the painter can caulk the seam next time you have your kitchen painted? I know my house is still "settling" and it's over 40 years old!

The molding used on mine, between the top of the cabinet and the crown, is baseboard.

We created our own simple shaker crown - a plain 5" board (cherry, in our case) with a strip of 7/8" cove on top, then we made 1/2" bullnose to cover the join at the cabinet top and match our house trim. In an old house like ours, you definitely want the plain filler so that you can adust the top cove/crown accordingly. Our ceiling is so off-level that there is up to an inch difference in places - but virtually invisible.

Krazed, if you can purchase or borrow a real air compressor brad gun, you can use the tiny professional finishing nails to attach your trim. You truly cannot even see them on our crown and we didn't need to use filler over them. (On a painted surface of course results may vary.)

Circuspeanut, I just love your cabinets. Would you mind telling me about them? I've been thinking of doing a medium cherry shaker, but sometimes they look so shiny. What type of wood are yours?

I carried the molding-above-cabinets idea to excess.

Here's what mine look like. I did 35" upper cabs with molding till top of ceiling

hi linste,
sorry, I missed this and someone pointed it out to me -- my cabinets are actually quite old, they're from 1994. I got them used at the Habitat for Humanity ReStore. They are cherry with "nutmeg" stain and maple insides from Heritage Custom Cabinetry; I researched and was told the company switched ownership a while back, but it looks like they still carry my Mission door style, or one very similar to it:

{{!gwi}}

Here's one of mine prior to install:

Hope that helps!

Here is a link that might be useful: Mission style door under Transitional Styles