I like the one level island. Gives you more room to spread out when you're prepping, and if you want to sit at the peninsula and chop veg or whatever (or helpers) it would work better for that, plus the people sitting can be more 'in the action'.

I like the look of the one level,especially if you are having granite countertops, the bigger piece of granite especially if the granite has movement looks awesome. On the other hand the two levels helps to hide the kitchen mess if you have open concept and are a messy cook.

I am a fan of one level islands-- much more flexible workspace. But with your sink there you might enjoy the two level to conceal a bit of the mess. Also, the peninsula is right there for you or helpers to prep on both sides. Now to revisit the 30" peninsula... you should be able to get longer drawer slides (they are more expensive but...) and deeper drawers-- I am. Are these stock cabs or do you have some more custom options. It may not be what everyone asks for, but many people have at least some extra depth drawers. Ask again.

forgot to say that it looks really pretty!

Normally, I'm not at all a fan of two-level counters, but in your case, I think it would be fine either way. The peninsula gives you the spread-out space that the raised bar would steal, and it does hide the kitchen mess, at least from those sitting in the family room. I would still probably pick one level for myself, because I like to really spread out, but I don't think you can make a "wrong" choice on this one. Go with what feels right to you.

i like the 2 level counter. hides dirty dishes etc. It looks like you'll have a lot of space on either side of the sink for prep.

as for the 6" shelves. put doors on them - that depth is good for storing lots of things. like even canned goods, 2 ltr soda bottles (or in cans), extra paper towels, etc. you won't lose stuff in the 'back' of the shelf or have to pay for pullouts.

If the sink wasn't in the island, I would absolutely go with the one, big level for the reason mentioned...more space to spread out, nice big slab of granite, etc. However, with your sink (and therefore main prep/clean-up area) so open to the main living space of your house I would defintiely go with the two level to block the view of the sink. I am always on the look out to keep my countertops clear but its a never ending battle. There is ALWAYS something or lots of somethings sitting on the counter near the sink just two minutes after I have cleaned up. Often its just a few handwashed dishes that are drying and waiting to be put away, but its still not what you want to see as you are enjoying your family room and relaxing for a bit. You still have your pensinsula for helpers and spreading out bigger projects.
Just the other day I pulled out the original plans for our house which had the sink in the one level island. My immediate thought was thank goodness we changed that!

For the peninsula cabinet issue, I guess you will have to think about what type of items you would need to store to decide which combo to go with. Looks-wise, I did like the sketch you had with a glass front cabinet facing out to the eating area. Gave it a more open feel. But, may not be the most practical depending on what you need to find a place for.

I like the two level for privacy, since your sink is there.

Will you have any trouble reaching into the wall cabinet over the corner susan?

I think it matters whats on the other side of the island. If it was the eating part of an eat in kitchen, I might leave it one level. But I think you have the living area on the other side, and I would HATE to be able to see right into the sink from the sofa. I would really want it two-level, if it were me.

I usually like the idea of hiding the sink, but since I know you would have preferred an island, I think the one-level gives you somewhat of an island look and feel, even with the peninsula. It also looks massive, which, I think, looks cool. Overall, I think the raised part gives the kitchen more of a typical appearance, while the one-level is a little more unique. If that was your living room, I'd vote for 2 levels, but since it's the family room, I might be able to live with the view of the sink.

And, BTW, I think having a little over a foot between the open dw and the cabinets would allow you to reach the uppers on the end, but you sure wouldn't be able to get into the bases.

You have a 36" sink base which will allow you to get a nice big DEEP sink. I really think that will take care of the dirty dishes being visible issue and I would personally much prefer a single level counter.

I am very glad we went with a one-level island. A lot more usable space. Looks less cluttered. easy to clean. WE also also it as a serving station for parties.

Use the back flat part of the peninsula for doing a stylish tile or stone mural...

Do you have an idea of whether a one or two level island would work better for your family? (b/c either would work) My sink has been on a peninsula 24" wide for the past nine years. I have not been bothered by looking at messes and my sink is not that deep. Some of my fondest memories of my daughters are rolling, cutting, and decorating holiday cookies on that peninsula. So for me, one 'massive' level would be my choice.

Rohm- I think it does look pretty massive one level. Not sure if that was a good thing or not, but if it one level, I would probably shorten it a bit. A note about the dw location, I don't think I could wedge myself between the dw door and cabinet to reach those uppers. Yes I could stand on the end, but then I couldn't reach the corner. It would be nice if the sink were more centered....

Right now the only person who sits at our existing peninsula is my 2-year old. He loves it. So, my concern isthat the 2-level would be to tall for him. However, I could easily see him dragging around the stool to the lower side.

Any more thoughts on how to use the back side of the peninsula?

I think the 'massive' look and the larger expanse of counter on the one level will make your kitchen feel bigger and less hemmed-in.

As for the back of the island, I like the idea of the 21" deep drawer bank with a 9" bookshelf section behind. You could leave the shelves open, or put on glass or solid doors, depending on the look you'd like.

Quickly,

I prefer the raised bar design. Be careful with your faucet selection, if you go this route.

The heights of the uppers above the fridge and range are at 18, which will put the bottom of them at 72 AFF. While this may work for the fridge, with most fridges topping out between 68-69, even still it would seem excessive head space to me. Some fridges are only 66 high, and this would really leave a large gap.

Standards for OTR microwave would start at 69" AFF minimum, which is OK, still. If your tall, then 72" may work out for you, if your vertically challenged, you may want to go with a 21 high upper.

Regarding the island. I would go with the 21" deep drawers, with a BFD30 9D behind, simply for appearance. I dont think you will like the looks of doors on the right and a panel on the left.

Without knowing how the overall floor plan flows, its hard to make design decisions, other than what you have mentioned, but heres a few that come to mind as I look thru your plan.

The 2 ft return wall on the left of the sink, seems cumbersome, and too long, for no reason. (again, not knowing the balance of the floor plan)The floor plan does not show it making a 90 degree turn, like the 3D does.

If it needs to be that long, for the sake of the existing plan, then consider this, as it will only take a few minutes to look at it on the computer.

Change the B3D 30 on the island to a Base penisula 30, 30 deep with full doors on the back to match the other side.

Change the B24 on the left end of the kitchen to a B3D 33.
Slide the W1536 9" to the left to the left to line up with the end of the B3D33. Slide the glass door cabinet to the left 9 inches also. Then try a Wall corner diagonal 243624 in the corner. While this may affect the balance of that elevation slightly, it may improve the use and add more storage capacity.

This will also change the opening entering the kitchen slightly, as it only shows 7 ?/16 of available wallspace based on the plan, but I dont know why there is a ?/16 gap at the right wall. You have 69" of available wall length. I think you can get a wall corner diagonal in the plan with a little adjusting.

Is this a remodel and all the walls are existing?

Just something to look at, as long as your looking at options.

Rollie- I have to go back and read everything you said again to fully understand, but I will attach my existing plan and the new so you can see the changes. The return wall is 24", where the wall from the FR turns into the kitchen.

Existing:
{{gwi:1770194}}

Proposed:
{{gwi:1794441}}

I much prefer the one-level.

OK, I'm going to be blunt. I keep hearing that two levels will hide a kitchen full of dirty dishes, etc. But, two levels will not hide the mess from anyone unless they're sitting down w/their eyes lower than the counter level. Anyone standing (even from a distance), walking by, sitting at the counter, etc. will see the mess just fine... Also, the dirty dishes, etc. will still be in view from the breakfast nook. The better idea is to go w/a deep sink...that will hide much more than a raised counter.

With two levels, you limit the usability of the counter to just visiting & eating a small meal. It won't be deep enough to do much else, probably not even homework. Try spreading out books or papers on an 18" deep surface. And your peninsula is not designed for seating so no homework there either.

The other thing that you need to be careful of is that if you have a raised counter you may have a difficult time finding a faucet that will fit b/w the back of the sink and the edge of the raised counter's overhang on the kitchen side. With most sinks, there's limited space behind. Subtract another 3" or so for the overhang in the back and you may have issues w/faucets. If you're planning a pulldown or high-arc faucet, you may have to consider one w/a separate handle or a handle in front since there may not be room for a handle that turns from front to back. Short profile pullouts & "regular" faucets will probably work. Although you may need to check that the handle on top isn't constrained by that overhang as well.

Additionally, the overhang for seating gives you a big increase in the length of usable counterspace in the peninsula. A raised counter not only eliminates that extra length, but it reduces it further b/c of the overhang of the raised counter on the kitchen side.

That corner, especially would be very useful...the corner where the peninsula meets the overhang area. It's a big expanse that would be ideal for rolling out cookies (plenty of space for making the dough, rolling it out, cookie cutters, etc....even for cooling. It's also great for dying Easter eggs [another first for our new kitchen!], doing crafts, etc. I find our one-level peninsula incredibly useful! for everything...when I'm working from home I put my laptop on it and spread my papers out. My children spread out on it for their homework. When my DD had a science project we spread out on it to organize & put it together (the actual work was done outside b/c it involved the grill.)

I hope when you say "shorten" you don't mean the depth of the seating overhang or the depth of the peninsula.

Your seating overhang should not change...you really should have 15" of leg room, but 12" might work if you all have short legs. Any shallower will be difficult for anyone to sit comfortably in a normal position. You plan to have a 3" pony wall...so that means 18" b/w the sink & person sitting on the counter...very good to minimize splashing.

A peninsula 27" deep will work, but 30" is much better for the bigger projects. (Yes, those 3" do make a difference...it's really 6" more than a standard counter).

I also think the single level makes your kitchen look more open and spacious. The bi-level looks more choppy.

Peninsula: My first question is why you can't do a 30" deep peninsula? Pull the one in the corner out 6" and have the one in the "leg" accessible from the kitchen (I take it your cabinetmaker can't or won't make a cabinet 30" deep...) Then, you will have a 6" overhang on the portion over the cabinet facing the island but you'll have a cabinet w/a 1-1/2" (approx) overhang in the corner. Why is that a problem? You don't even need to support a 6" overhang.

If your cabinetmaker can make 30" deep cabinets, then I would make both the cabinets 30" deep...increases your storage space by quite a bit in those cabinets!

If you prefer the look of the same overhang on the entire length & your cabinetmaker cannot/will not make 30" deep cabinets, then I would still pull the corner one forward and then put in the shallow shelves. If you have another 3" or 6" to play with, consider making the shelves 9" or 12" deep (more useful) and pulling the corner cabinet out those additional 3" or 6".

Does this all make sense?

DW Location: In our old kitchen we had exactly that...next to a 36" lazy susan that was in the corner of the "L" in our kitchen. We had 12" b/w the DW & the short side of the "L". Believe it or not...it actually worked! Yes, it was a little tight, but we did have room to stand b/w them and access the upper cabinets. We were also able to access the flatware drawer on that short leg b/c when it opened it opened above the bottom of the DW rack which was where the flatware was located in the DW. Of course, we couldn't open the cabinet door below the drawer, but all we had there were our bags/wraps/etc + seldom used items. It actually wasn't one of the things I worried about or wished I could change in the old kitchen since it worked just fine. However, this is your kitchen and if you feel it will be an issue, then leave it as-is...it's not a "deal breaker" by any means!

In the end, though, this is your kitchen. So, these decisions are yours and you should do what will work best for your family and how you plan to use the kitchen. If that means a raised counter then so be it...I just want to be sure you make an informed decision...i.e., know the pros/cons going in.

Good luck!

Wow! I should have refreshed...a lot has been posted since I started this message earlier this evening.

Hi Buehl,
To answer your question, a 30" base is available....but apparently, not with drawers. Something about they only come 24". However someone mentioned asking about an upgrade to a large size. I wish I could say I was getting custom so I could do anything I want. I'm currently planning on using Medallion cabinets, but I may have to switch unless I can beat my guy up enough to find some savings. I definitely want a 30" deep peninsual though.

I highly recommend a one level peninsula area. I don't have a large kitchen, and I love my one level area! I don't have a sink in my peninsula, but I really don't think "hiding" dirty dishes in a sink with two levels is worth it. JMHO, I think it would give your space a bigger, wide open and airy look with one level. Here's a link to my peninsula. Imagine a two level peninsula there and how that would close up the area. Good luck! Can't wait to see your finished kitchen.
Barb

Here is a link that might be useful: One Level Peninsula

I see a couple of improvements that could be made. Are you looking at Medallion? The order codes look like Medallion. If so, here are my tips:

1. I would prefer the two sets of pot/pan drawers on both sides of range. I would rather have 24", instead of the 21" bases. Here's how you can get that: Don't use 3" ref. end panels. Go with 1.5" instead. Then go with a 21" wide pantry. You'll gain 6" doing this. You'll appreciate the 24" drawers for pots/pans and mixing bowls. Plus you'll have better countertop space.

2. Medallion also has a modification called 'wide stiles'. If you use this modification, you can have the fillers built right in to the cabinet and save on wasted space. Have your designer show you the spec book and look under modifications. You might be able to use this modification in that awkward corner.

3. I would rather have a 6" deep cabinet, instead of the decorative panels. I have one in my kitchen and it's perfect for canned goods, vingegars, oils, spices. I would prefer to keep the drawers at 24" deep!

4. The deeper cabinet over the microwave MIGHT be a problem down the road if you ever need it serviced. With some over the range MW's, a serviceman would need to acess the screws on the top panel. If you have a deeper cabinet, you might have to remove the microwave to have it serviced. Might want to check in to that.

Thanks kompy. Yes, it is Medallion. Could you show me a pic of your 6" cab?

I thought 21" would be too narrow for some of my bigger pans, hence the door. I'm not sure about making the pantry more narrow, though. The only way I made DH ok with the cabinet type pantry was showing him it was the same interior size as our current walled in pantry.

Yeah, I think the 15" cab above the OTR MW will have to change. I saw in the manual that the max depth of cab to use with it is 14". Too bad. He was trying to cover up the black sides. i guess there isn't an option between 12" and 15".

Sure, you can make it whatever depth you want. But in your drawings the W2136's are still 12" deep, so that wouldn't hide the black sides. Only if you make them deeper as well.

Also, make sure you go over with your KD what kind of end panels you will have with your Medallion cabinets. If you're getting Silverline or Designer series, it will come with the standard wood-grain vinyl ends. I would at least upgrade the exposed ends with either:
-wood ends or
-flush wood ends

Flush wood ends look nicer.

Is there someplace on the web that shows those details?

I don't think so. KraftMaid has an online spec book, but not Medallion, unfortunately. I'm sure your KD can show you examples in his showroom or just show you the spec book.

Medallion has a lot of the same modifications that KM has, so you could go to their spec site and check that out. Their wide rail option is called something different...like integrated extended stiles. It also shows you the difference between wood ends and the flush ends.

I'm not sure if the general public has access to the KM specs online, but you can try.

www.kraftmaidspec.com

Here is a link that might be useful: KraftMaid specs