Do inset uppers, and then do framed for the lowers with a 3/4" face frame. It's the same effect as frameless as far as availability of volume for the drawers. That will give you the look of inset where you see it the most (the uppers) but give you the storage of frameless.

Or just find a good quality frameless line and enjoy the much higher quality finishes and better all around storage that they can provide for you. No shop finish will ever stand up like a factory finish will do.

I rarely drop toe below 4", looks better, works better, allows for toe drawer here and there (one or two after that the bang for the buck goes- if you think you need more than then move or throw stuff out:)

Almost always delete intermediate rail- yes top drawers all the same height (except for 2 drawer cabs) but I do that anyway. Gains vertical clearance and I like the look.

Rails and stiles- 1-1/2". They can be shortened BUT: I rarely do, usually for a specific reason on a single cabinet, and then only if the cabinets are at the very least dowel frame construction NEVER on pocket hole frames.
Most often I do this on overlays though so it doesn't show, and watch out for counter support and span length. IOW don't go under 1-1/2"
Edited to add- can make both rails and stiles narrow if your using 1" frames that are M & T but doesn't sound like your budget.

Combining inset cabinets and using a 1-1/2"intermediate stile makes up in part for the frame.
Combine a 15 and a 30 that way and it becomes 43 1/2" On frameless you lose 1-1/2" per cabinet- framed you lose 3 in width; combine 4 cabinets and you lose 7 1/2 instead of 12.
You have to specify openings.
With doweled or mortise and tenon cabinets I've combined as much as 114" to make a single cabinet- pocket holes stay below 84"

Tip if you can get it to look right a 2 drawer for pot and pan with an internal roll out in one drawer helps.

I almost never order extra depth bases to get extra depth in the drawers- maybe one a kitchen- waste of money IMO. (again throw stuff out or pay more attention to internal organization)

Overlay gain nothing over insets when framed- combining doesn't work as well with overlay.

This post was edited by jakuvall on Thu, Apr 11, 13 at 14:47

live wire oak: If I go with the Amish guys, frameless isn't an option. Will all depend on the estimate, all other things being the same. I saw some 13 year old cabs that the same guys made for a co-worker of mine and thought the finish looked really nice.
jakuvall: thanks for the input. Combining the frames between two cabs sounds like a good idea. I'll ask them if they'll do that.