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Sink Cabinet Question.

Posted by Renosarefun (My Page) on
Thu, Apr 24, 14 at 12:11

I'm in the process of building the cabinets our of 3/4" Maple Ply and wanted to make a change to the 35" outside, 33 1/2" inside dimension sink cabinet. It's already build but my wife likes to have 3/4" end panels on the ends and have the cabinet stick out approximately 2-3" for a different look and also because she doesn't like the fact that the sink takes up too much of the 25" counter top depth.

I've already incorporated the end panels on the stove and fridge and she wants it to match.

Question::

Our under-mount Artisan sink including the lip is 32" wide and after I cut down the sink cabinet to accommodate a 3/4" end panel on each end will the granite or quartz installer still be able to mount the sink? The inside dimension will become 32" wide.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

Yes.


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

Thanks for the reply Trebruchet;

On the standard plastic laminate counters I know they install brackets to hold the over-mount sinks and I've seen in some cases where they also do this for under-rmount in the granite/quartz installation. In my case that sides won't be able to be secured via a bracket due to no allowable space so I'll assume they're have to rely on the proper epoxy adhesive.

I've also noticed in some cases where they apply silicone or epoxy and after about a year it starts to separate and in those cases no brackets were used.

Anyone have any experience or problems when the proper epoxy was used? If so and no problems were encountered after several years than I'll start to modify the sink cabinet and cut, sand and stain the end panels.

My wife may get her wish list after all.


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

Renosarefun:

Before your tops are installed, someone needs to make (4) small rabets in your cabinet sides to accommodate the screwed-in brackets for a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Google Braxton Bragg) and screw them in with the wires measured and attached. Drop the sink into the cabinet, install the tops, run a bead of silicone (not epoxy) around the sink flange and finish the HUSH installation to hold the sink in place permanently.


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

Thanks again for the reply Trebrucket:

I've seen the Braxton Bragg set up and I don't believe it will work well for my selt up for the following reason;

'm installing a large Kitchenaid Batch Feed Food Waste Disposal which is pretty heavy and adds a considerable amount of down pressure on one side of the sink.

The reason I asked the question originally is I've heard a lot of under-mount sinks that were installed with 100% silicone only that failed within the first year and under-mount brackets were not used. Fewer sinks failed that had epoxy but I didn't want to rely on the 100% silicone or epoxy which is why I was concerned about reducing the interior cabinet size which won't allow for the brackets along the sides.

I'm curious why you don't recommend epoxy to bond the under-mount since to the countertop?

This post was edited by Renosarefun on Thu, Apr 24, 14 at 18:56


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

The "bond" between the sink flange and the stone is irrelevant. It is really more of a gasket to waterproof the sink/stone transition. If you're insistent on bonding dissimilar materials, Integra Adhesives makes a product called Composite Bonder. I love this product, but I am not recommending it's use in this application.

Sinks must be mechanically fastened.

If you install the HUSH as specified and stand in your sink, I will come to your home and install the sink as you wish if it fails. I will do so even if you jump up and down in the sink. Even if you and your wife jump up and down in each side while holding hands.


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

There are a number of systems for holding sinks up. Trebuchet obviously has experience with the HUSH system which is simple and inexpensive. I'm using the "sink setter" system (google it) which is a bit more expensive but also a simple and solid concept. We are installing an oversized sink so we need alternate support methods.


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

There are several good mounting systems out there for undermount sinks. If the mounting system relies on any type of adhesive it is a unreliable system.

Like mentioned previously, epoxy should not be used and caulk is only for creating a "gasket" between the stone and the sink.


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

After some thought I believe I'll go with the HUSH system. Any idea of the best place to purchase one or two sets?

Maybe even the sink setter?


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

Renosarefun:

Google Braxton Bragg.


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

Thanks for the reply Trebruchet, I saw mention of a quote in a previous thread, ""My method of installation is better than those in the instructions. If anyone is interested, let me know." Can you please explain the better method you're referring to?


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

Renosarefun:

No helper on earth can hold a sink in place as steadily and for as long as a bar clamp, which is where I differ from the manufacturer's method.

The sink is essentially installed twice. The first time, without silicone on the flange, is to verify reveals and check the length of the HUSH wires. Only after these are acceptable, the sink is lowered, silicone applied, and finally installed with the HUSH.

It's pictured in this link:

Here is a link that might be useful: Bar clamps


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RE: Sink Cabinet Question.

Thanks for the reply Trebruchet:

So the Hush system is installed as per manufactures spec and the sink is set in place to allow the silicone to dry with the aid of "bar clamps". I believe I get it.

Thanks again.


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