Get the SubZero if you want a fully integrated look.

Post the spec sheet. for completely flush the depth of the panel needs to be considered. some wont install that way. I'd want to be sure. SZ and Liebherr will install completely flush. check to see difference with those spec sheets.

@rococogurl
Thanks for your reply. The SZ says the unit is 24" (same as Thermador). The Liebherr says the minimum depth needed is 24 5/8".
This is the .pdf for the Thermador:

I don't understand what it means. The Thermador website says: "Plan the cutout depth ��" 25" for North American style cabinets,
24" with installation frame accessory, 24" for European style
cabinets"

So, this means that it can't be installed flush in a 24" cut out? I have seen numerous photos of Thermadors which are flush so this means that they are all in 25" cabinet runs? If that's the case, is there any fridge that will install flush in 24" or must I bring the whole section out by 1"?

I really appreciate any knowledge on this because I'm totally confused!

Here is a link that might be useful: Thermador .pdf specs

The thermadors can absolutely be installed flush/inset....look at page 235 of the design guide and it tells you that you need 25" to the finish door face of adjacent cabinet (in euro style cabs)

There is good info on pages 233-237 about the various installations....

Here is a link that might be useful: Design guide

@AineLane -- I can see why you are confused. I couldn't view the pdf you linked -- only the other guide that someone else linked.

One drawing looks like the fridge will be flush with a 24" cabinet and another makes it look as if the thickness of the door will protrude from a 24" cabinet. I don't feel the schematics are clear enough. But it likely depends on the way the cabinets are framed so they are hedging on the installation instructions.

I would call their tech support, tell them the type of cabinets I was getting, give them the model number of the fridge and ask them to confirm the depth of the cabinets. I'd be sure to tell them you want the panel to fit flush (the handle will protrude, of course). Their schematics on the guide do show the fridges installed that way -- I'd find one of those and point them to that illustration on that page.

Also, keep in mind any door panel is 3/4" thick. So the surface of the door needs to be flush with the face of the cabinets. Another question is will the hinges accommodate a fully inset door. Again, looks like the answer is yes but it isn't clear to me from the diagram.

From what you seem to be saying, it wouldn't be acceptable to you to have the hinges and door thickness exposed.

If you ask me to bet, I will say that the cabinets need to be 25" deep.

Hang in there. You will figure it out. But I would check, then call back and double, then call back and triple check. It's a huge bore but it's the best way to be sure.

We have the 30" version of this fridge. My DH says the instructions are extremely confusing, and that you should look at the little picture that shows the door hinge, the adjustable pins and the required door clearance. But basically, on the hinge side, you need 3/4" to allow for the panel, plus depth of the handle if the handle will hit the side wall when open 90 degrees (90 degrees is all you need with this fridge to get the drawers fully extended and even removed). From front to back is 24-3/4" minimum (which includes the 3/4" for the panel). Whether you need more for a "flush" installation depends on the depth of the adjacent countertop.

Two other things - make sure your water and electrical hookup. Are located according to the specs low down because otherwise the fridge will not fit flush against the back wall. Second, make sure you plan for finished panels that are at least 4" deep on both sides and top, so that's what you see when the doors are open.

Here's a not-so-great picture of ours (which isn't the "hide the frdge" look, but may help).

Lastly, don't be surprised if the installation including the panels takes an entire day. We have a very skilled contractor and it still took that long.

@ajc71
Thank you very much for your assurance that this can be done and for the link to the design guide. I have read it and printed it to show the cabinetmaker today.

@rococogurl
Thanks so much!! I'm glad you understand my confusion at these specs. You're absolutely right - I will call and speak with them about it until I'm perfectly clear.

@sjhockeyfan
Thanks for the photo - your kitchen is fantastic! It looks like your whole space is really interesting.
I wanted to clarify what you meant about "plan for finished panels that are at least 4" deep on both sides and top, so that's what you see when the doors are open". Sorry if this should be obvious, but I'm not sure what you mean?

-
The Design Guide says I can use a 24" deep cutout if I have Euro style cabinetry, or with full overlay cabinets I need 25" although it says it "might be acceptable" to use 24" depth if I follow the sketches they include. I think the cabinet maker does full overlay only. I will check with him today. Because the wall right next to the fridge is 24.25" deep, it would require drywall work for me to make the cutout 25" which I would like to avoid if possible!
I need to better understand the difference between full overlay and Euro style to see if I can make this work.

My husband is dictating and I'm typing! When you open the door to the refrigerator, the door is about 4" thick including the panel and the door itself. So when you open the door, there is about 4" before the refrigerator box begins - so they recommend that the enclosure for the refrigerator be finished at least 4" in from the front edges, so you see paneling when you open the door rather than an unfinished surround.

Unfortunately, I'm out of the country so I can't take a picture, but I can possibly have my daughter send me a picture to send to you over the weekend.

@sjhockeyfan
Thank you so much (and to your husband as well! :) ) for the information. Yes, I understand now what you mean and I hadn't thought about that at all. I will add it to the list called "seemingly small details that actually matter a lot" and I will be sure to bring this up with my cabinetmaker today.

Thanks again for your help, it is very much appreciated!

Glad to help - believe me, I didn't understand it either!