Not sure about that part of it but I know someone else posted about this late last week. The fabricator of her granite did a lousy job on the cuts around the cook top. I'll see if I can find the post for you. I believe the flush mount made the counter installation much trickier as it's not as common. If you decide to go with it, make sure whoever installs your counters has experience with installations around a flush mount cook top. (if you haven't already done your counters).

Okay....I just noticed your name!! Lol, I linked you to your own post. I will remove my useless self from your thread now... ;) Good luck with your install, I hope it gets smoother from here for you.

Thanks rebeccamom, i take it from the lack of responses that few people have a flush mounted cooktop. Guess we are not in the mainstream of choices! With a little luck, the Wolf installer will get it finished correctly the second time.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'flush mount' so I'm assuming you mean frameless as in a 36" Wolf. I'm no expert but I recently GC'd my own kitchen and did a little research on this subject to check out the installer. Fortunately he was excellent and confirmed my assumptions. I have a Gagg but I took a quick look at the Wolf installation instructions and the process looks the same.

I can't imagine what would take 2 hours unless he was installing the electrical box for the unit as well. Basically, the unit just sits in the 5/16" recess your counter top man routed out and the wires are connected.

There is a foam strip that glues to the underside of the glass all the way around the edge to provide a cushion. After installation, the foam compresses and the unit sinks to be flush with the surface. If a silicone seal is to be applied, (makes for easier cleaning/ harder servicing) It is best to wait a couple of weeks until the settling is finished. If not the silicone can pull away or bubble up.

Two things to check, one is that the glass sinks to at least the level of the top otherwise a pan or something sliding can hit the edge and chip or crack the glass. The second is to choose the silicone colour. Black usually looks best to match the glass IMHO but you can use a colour to match the countertop particularily if the top is light and the cut edge is a bit ragged.

Hope that helps.

5 years later and we are running into the same issue. Our counter is white quartz and our Miele cooktop is black (glass). We had a choice between pure white chalk and black chalk. Since our drop in wasn't polished by our counter fabricator, I thought white chalk would hide the imperfections and the white would darken to the off white color of the marble counter. I was out voted by my wife and kitchen installer and we went with black. The end result was a cooktop top that looks like a child took a sharpie marker around it. I think the white would have been a bad choice too as chalk doesn't seal out stains and it would discolor overtime.

The lesson we learned is that you have to get your fabricator to polish the edge of your drop in cooktop just like you have to polish the edge of an undermount sink.

If you don't start with a clean edge, you won't "bandaid" fix the problem with creative caulking (not even if you could hire Vincent Van Gogh.)

Hi, could you send a photo of your black edge please?

Sorry I misunderstand… did you use anything to seal around glass cooktop and the stone? My fabricators made a mistake, after I settled with drop in instalation they made a cutout for the flush and didn’t finish the edges (as for the under mount sink). I don’t think it’s possible to do it in place, even if it is the process will take off the stone and make the gap even bigger, it’s already about 1.5 mm on the sides and much less front and back. My question is should I seal it with any material?