Does the 34 inches include the toe-kick? Maybe you could reduce or remove the toekick.

Don't forget appliances if you with less height. A friend did it and had trouble finding stove and dishwasher. She finally went with more expensive European ones.

On the Ikeafans website I asked a similar question. Some suggested using a 24' high wall cabinet and adding 6" feet. Add a countertop and you have around 32". That would work for me since I'm 5' tall. I plan to work something like that out when I get to the kitchen cabinet part of my remodel. I'll use standard height cabs in most spots but definately want a prep/bake area that'll be more comfortable. If I'm able, I would also love to put my cooktop at a lower more comfortable height for me since I do most of the cooking.

ccc123, I am assuming the toekick is included in the cabinet height. I didn't know it could be removed. That would eliminate any possibility of toekick drawers. I don't know if I want them, but I may.

janwad, only the dishwasher would be a problem. That may just be the excuse to raise it so it is easier to load. I am having an induction cooktop and undercounter ovens.

remodelfla, I've got to tell you I always read your screen name as remodel fella until I saw you are a she on another thread :) That explains why some of your posts didn't make much sense to me. OK, well, you have a good idea to stack cabinets to achieve the right height. I do nearly all my prep on an island. I hope it will be able to be a little lower. And the cooktop would be wonderful lower. I am using a countertop induction unit now, so it is at least 38 inches high. It's not very easy to flip a skillet up so high. For the baking area I have an old hutch, like a Hoosier cabinet, that has a 30 inch high work surface.

If you are having an undercounter oven, make sure you get one that is a lower height. My undercounter oven (under the induct cooktop) rests on a shelf that is basically level with the bottom of the cab. Without the toekick, my oven would be sitting on the floor.

me a he? I can understand why my posts would have very confusing! It's bad enough that I write as my mind thinks.... somewhat circular. I had a similar mindset to do an induction cooktop with a wall oven installed under the counter. But now (as evidence of my ever changing mind) I am now considering installing my wall oven in a cabinet so I can lower my induction cooktop and not have lift objects up out of an oven. I'll also be getting a second speed oven/microwave. I'm debating whether to stack it with the larger oven or install it in a separate cabinet. My concern with stacking is that reaching in would be too high up for me.

I know ever-changing minds! I haven't discussed countertop height with DH. He is 5'6'', but may not want a kitchen so out of step with the normal/usual. We plan to stay in this house for many years, but I know he will think of resale value. Frankly, after 26 years in the old kitchen, I have earned one that fits!

I have an eternal conflict between function and form. If there was an attractive place for the larger oven other than under the cooktop, I would gladly move it. My ovens, at this point, are a 27'' or 30'' and a 24''. I expect the 24'' will be the primary oven. It will be in a tall cabinet with the MW next to the baking center.

I'm getting the speed cook/convection... probably an Advantium in lieu of a microwave. Since it serves that function as well, I figure it will eliminate the need for at least one of the upper cabs. I'm going with as few uppers as possible and lots of drawers. I haven't even worked out a floor plan yet never mind a layout. In my initial pre-plan thoughts I have a vision of about a 4 - 4 1/2 foot long space that I'll use as my prep center. It would be next to the oven cab. I'm thinking I might make the cabinets deeper to better accomodate baking and prep. When I start zeroing in more I'm going to post layouts on this forum and ask for help. There are brilliant minds out there and everyone is so generous with their time and effort. You might consider posting plans. You'd be surprised at some of the insight you'll get from others. Have fun planning! This whole process has me so excited I can hardly stand it!

I'm not an expert, however everyone in my little family is on the short side so I am having 3/4 inch shaved off my 4 1/2" toe kick for final height of 35 1/4". My contractor advised not taking any more off the toekick. My understanding is a standard base cab with toe kick is is 34 1/2" high and the standard counter is 1 1/2" high for a standard height of 36". Many cabinet makers make their cabinets in 3" increments. If yours makes a 27" base cab, you could attach a 4 1/2" toe kick and standard counter which could give you a 33" height. If you went with a 5" toe kick it would get you up to 33 1/2". I'm not sure at what height a toe kick becomes weird looking. Hope this helps.

I'll be looking for your plan! I have little to suggest for others' plans because I don't have a very good perception of what other people need. I have had at least two layout threads on GW; the final plan in no way resembles the original ideas I posted. The thoughts and suggestions posted were invaluable, and I ended up with a fantastic plan. Well, I like it. Some folks wouldn't choose it for their own, but it works for me.

Since I do all my food prep (cutting, chopping, rolling dough) on my island, I lowered the cabs 3". I did the same with the cooktop counter. However, the other counters are normal height. It made a world of difference. I am 5"1" and my cabs are 30" from floor to bottom of corian counter top.

Why avoid custom cabinetry? You might talk to a local maker, rather than feeling limited to high-end, national-brand "custom" lines. The 3" increments ChefKev mentioned are increments of height only for wall cabinets, not base cabs; any non-custom base cabinet with integrated toe-kicks will be 34 1/2" tall. Many are built in such a way that you could slice a couple inches off the bottom without causing structural problems, and frameless cabinets without integrated toe kicks could simply be set lower, but in either of these cases your toe-kick recess would be a couple of inches shorter, possibly too small to actually accommodate anyone's toes, and definitely harder to sweep under. Shorter cabinets with toe-kick drawers would absolutely be a custom item.

I like the no toe kick look. It seems easier to to keep clean and has a furniture look. The only lower height cabinets I saw were vanity bases. They don't look like kitchen cabinets exactly. I may use some for a few of the work stations.

chefkev, is the reduction in the toe kick on site work? It seems hard to keep the base level, but it is probably shimmed anyway.

cbreeze, I'm glad to hear lower cabinets worked for you. How did you lower the cabs 3 inches? Were they custom?

jon, I am not avoiding custom cabinetry, only trying to find a source we can fit into the budget, which is minimal. We've already put off the kitchen a year, and this is dragging on so long, I am to the tipping point of just getting it done. I've had two custom shops estimates ranging from $30 - $60 after making changes in the design and layout with both shops to lower the cost. Admittedly, they are not local shops, Kenebec and Ayr. Their work is exquisite. I have two local shops to investigate before settling on a company.

cotehele, 1/2 of my base cabs were trimmed and installed Friday (I was so excited I couldn't sleep). I only got to see them at night in poor light (kitchen lighting not hooked up yet), but I loved the 3/4" reduction in height. I will be on site later today and will double-check the toe room. If you haven't already put your flooring in, it might be an option to install the flooring (depending on type) after the cabs, thereby effectively lowering the counter level. I did just have a 3/4" wood floor put in and suggested this to my contractor - he said it was possible but preferred to shave 3/4" off the actual cabinets toe kicks.

I did realize I was probably losing my chance for toekick drawers, but felt the trade off was worth it. The only toekick drawers that I knew about were also very expensive (for my budget at least). My range is going to be in my island and I am leaving it at regular height. Many in GW like remodelfla have recommended two counterheights so I followed suit.

jon1270, thanks for correcting me so tactfully - I didn't realize it was only the uppers that were in 3" increments.

Yes, my cabs are custom. You could also do a custom prep island with perimeter cabs from other lines if a lowered work surface is important.

What about RTA cabinets like IKEA's, that sit on legs. You can adjust the leg height to make the counter height you want. I plan a 30" deep lower-then-standard counter when I eventually finish the bathroom and get started on the kitchen.

Some mass produced cabinet makers offer a custom lower base for an upgrade price. Might still be cheaper than custom...it depends. It's not easy to shave toe kicks especially with regular framed face cabinets. The european frameless one you can put shorter legs on the bottom, but that's not so great either. There are RTA (European style) builders like Scherr's that might also do custom for a fair price.

Here is a link that might be useful: Scherr's cabinets

Removing a toe kick entirely should be a common option available. The cabinets I'm looking at charge somewhere around $40 to remove the 4 1/2" toekick completely and then you end up with a 30" tall cabinet.

I'd avoid just reducing the toe kick too much or you'll end up with a "toe wedge" instead of a toe kick - and cleaning will become even more of a PITA.

You could do dishwasher drawer to avoid the problem of it being too tall for your cabinets?

I agree, lowering height by removing the toe kick (or not) should be a common option. Seems that many of us are height challenged :) I've looked at IKEA and Scherr; I'd prefer Scherr because it is more adaptable to quirks and preferences of size and finish. I also want cabs with no toe kick. A toe kick-like drawer could be placed quite low on the cabinet if desired.

cpang, Your solution is brilliant! I have looked at DDs, and cannot convince myself I would like them. I wish I could 'test drive' a DD before committing to them. One could be in the clean-up zone and another in the morning/evening bar (coined a new name!)with beverages, toast, etc. for glasses, flatware, dishes, etc.

I am meeting with our architect next week. I cannot keep up this uncertainty for much longer ;oP

cotehele, I've rechecked and I'm still loving my 3/4" toe kick reduction. There is a little less toe room and it will be slightly harder to get the broom under there, but I feel it's an excellent trade off for me. My floor is uneven as it turns out, so my carpenter shaved less at one side of the room and more at another. I have one corner at almost one inch shaved off and I see why my contractor said only to go with 3/4 off.

Even if you just get one 3-4 foot stretch of counter at a lower height where you can do most of your prep it would really help. I also did look and see that a lot of cabinet makers make 24" deep wall cabinets (usually go over the fridge) that you could get at at 27" height and add a 5" toe kick to to give you a 33 1/2" counter. You could most likely have pullouts put in but probably couldn't have any drawers. Best of luck!

chefkev, I'm so glad you like how your cabinets are coming in. It is quite a risk to do something different and permanent like shaving the toe kick. I will remember the wall cabinet suggestion when I settle on a cabinet maker. It may come in handy. I cannot wait to see pictures of your new kitchen!