This question is too general to provide specific answers. The complexity of the job depends on where the kitchen and vent are in relation to the rest of the house. If the vent is on an exterior wall and you can vent straight out the back, that's one of the easiest ways to do it. The job can become complicated if it's an interior wall or there happens to be other "stuff" in the way (pipes, etc). Labor costs will vary greatly by location. Finally, you didn't say what kind of vent you want -- a professional high-CFM vent will require bigger ductwork and will cost more.

I can't really tell you how much my "up through the roof" vent cost -- the bills for materials were broken out separately, but the labor was a total charge for the whole job. They were doing some drywall and such anyway (but not a total gut), so covering the duct was merged in with the other new bits of drywall.

You pretty much just need to get bids (and possibly drill some test holes to see where wiring or plumbing might be an issue).

--Janet

Just to help you visualize -
- From the vent hood above the range, there will be a metal duct that has to get to the outside, via the cheapest and shortest and least ugly route possible.

Sounds like your range is on a wall (not an island cooktop etc). Here are some possibilities, from easiest to hardest. At some point in this progression, a normal person gives up.

- If your range is on an exterior wall, the duct simply goes out the wall. Cheap, easy, concealed, yaay!
- If your range is on an interior wall and close to an exterior wall, with continuous upper cabinets between, the duct can go up to the ceiling then turn and go horizontally to the exterior wall, concealed in or above the upper cabinets. Pretty cheap, pretty easy, concealed, whew!
- If your range is on an interior wall and close to an exterior wall and there is open wall between, the duct can go up to the ceiling then turn and go horizontally to the exterior wall but has to be exposed or "concealed" in a soffit. Not so cheap, not so pretty, ugh.
- If your range is on an interior wall and *not* close to an exterior wall, then the duct can go up into the attic and out the roof. Not as cheap, but still concealed, tolerable.
- If your range is on an interior wall and *not* close to an exterior wall and there is a second floor above, then the duct can go up, into the space between the ceiling and floor, and run parallel to the joists to the outside. Now not cheap at all, ouch!
- If your range is on an interior wall and *not* close to an exterior wall and there is a second floor above and the joists run the wrong way, then the duct can go into the interior wall, down through that wall to the basement or crawlspace, and from there run to the outside. Definitely not cheap, might not work well (long duct runs are bad), big bummer.
- If your range is on an interior wall and not close to an exterior wall and there is a second floor above and the joists run the wrong way and the house is built on a slab, then . . . "kids, we're moving!"