if you do a google image search drip rail kitchen sink some good photos will come up. Try drip ledge kitchen sink also. If its wood it should be attached with wood glue and finish nails.

I did do that but none were "close-up" that I could show the cab guy. I may do this in soapstone (my countertop material)but I want to understand if I need to ask the cabinet guy to give me the space to attach.

Sorry, I missed your question about gluing!

Yes, I suppose you could glue it on (with nails or screws as well).

Whether there's room for this would depend on your cabinet construction and door styling. For instance I think you might have a problem if the doors were full overlay and they covered the top rail of the space below the sink. However if you have visible rail space above the doors below the sink, then there's no reason you couldn't attach it to the front and avoid any issues related to a board running physically (as opposed to just visually) underneath the sink). Just consider how it looks, and if you're consuming all the space of the exposed rail I think I would hesitate to make it a constrasting color rather than one the same as other visible cab parts and doors.

If you do attach it just to the front of the cabs, I think I consider whether it needs both a front groove and two, short side ones, as well. This would arrest water running down the sides of the sink from creeping back towards the main body of your cabs. A teensy bit more complicated for your carpenter, but not a big deal. It will give the edge a much more polished effect, too, if all the edges of the drip rail match (all ogee, if that's what you select).

L.

Ours is a piece of extra cabinet cherrywood constructed with mitered corners. The side pieces are screwed in diagonally to the cabinet , the screwholes filled and finished, and the joint is tightly glued. Hope these help:

That sounds like it would look very nice, but I think it might be costly (not the meterial as you may wind up with a scrap you can use). But SS fabricators might charge a pretty penny to cut the groove (runnels are shockingly $$, though admittedly more critical and perhaps complicated), and of course any edge treatment is priced by the running foot.

I think I would draw an exact scale elevation of your proposed sink front assemblage including thickness of counter, placement of sink (undermount, level, etc.); height of sink; dimensions of any visible under-sink framaing; height of drip rail; height of any visible cab framing; doors or drawer fronts; visible bottom rail or trim; and toe kick. See if this will all look well-proportioned. Making the doors/drawer fronts less-tall (to accomodate space for added drip rail) might complicate things you are planning on having there like a trash pull-out, etc. The time to work this out is now!

One other thing just occurred to me: would the soapstone DE be a dangerous head-knocker for toddler/kidss horsing around in the kitchen?

L.

Liriodendron.. great points on the bevel.. What you says about the head butter and losing space for trash pullout do worry me.. I was planning on a second trash under the sink. I am worried though that without the drip rail, the cabs will get grungy. DH is the chief dishwasher and DW loader and he is very neat but a lot of others use it too and I feel that I need someway to protect cabs.

Circus --> Thanks for the pics.. Exactly what I needed to send to the cabinet guy.

Lalitha

I think I would pocket screw the drip rail to the cabinet...pocket screw from the underneath edge of the rail. No glue. Maybe some clear caulk. The reason I wouldn't glue it is so that it could be easily replaced or easily removed & refinished if it started to look tatty.

Do check your sink for the need for a drip rail. I went and felt around under mine (Franke Manor House, old Villeroy and Boch manufacture) and I don't need one since the front face of the sink doesn't curve backwards at the bottom. It just ends with right angle. Since it is mounted outwards of the cab faces anything that drips down will just drip on downward to the floor and if I did put in a drip edge I would actually create a problem where I don't have one now. Your sink may be the same? (But not, I think if it is a Rohl which does curve under, IIRC.)

L.

"I would also install the sink with a good bead of (hidden) caulk under its front edge to make sure water couldn't slither its way backwards under the edge of the sink."

Thanks for this idea; I'll probably do that and use silicone.

I realize this is an old thread but wanted to post more info for anyone researching the archives. I just ordered a Havens Metal apron-front sink that the company says has a 90-degree angle at the bottom of the apron with a finished lower edge that extends 1 1/2" out from the cabinet box. The company has never known of any prior customer with one of their apron-front sinks requiring a drip rail, so it could be as @lirirodendron mentioned that with a sharp edge sitting far enough out from the cabinet box, dripping onto the lower cabinets won't be a problem. A curtain underneath the sink rather than cabinets would be another solution. I've noticed that all of the sinks I've seen with drip rails appear to be of the fireclay style with a rounded bottom edge. Other fireclay sinks I've seen without drip rails are sometimes mounted flush with the cabinet box which creates an obvious path of travel for drips.

Here are a few photos from Christopher Peacock of contrasting drip rails such as mentioned in previous comments, links to original Instagram pictures at https://www.instagram.com/christopherpeacock/